I used to solder my cable ends, for the same reason I am careful to align
tire manufacturer markings up with valves - it shows someone cares. As
noted, SS cables put a stop to that, so I've used bees wax, tape, glue, and
spoke nipples, but ferules work and look best. Maybe I'll get some of the
If you use ferrules, would that be considered as a lugged cable?
Roy H. Drinkwater
Lititz, PA
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+1 for nail polish. Tried it when I was in a bind. But it's held up over
a few years.
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We should start tig-welding our stainless cable ends!
On Thursday, January 2, 2014 5:37:36 AM UTC-8, Anton Tutter wrote:
>
> I have been soldering electrical connections for most of my life but I've
> not once been able to solder modern SS cables, which is all I use on my
> bikes. So instead o
Really nice polished silver rims!
On Thursday, January 2, 2014 6:40:41 PM UTC-8, Ken Yokanovich wrote:
>
> I have been using 56% silver and compatible flux to solder the ends of my
> stainless steal cables. It works pretty well, but the silver does tarnish
> somewhat after time. Here is a quick/
I'm pro-ferrule. I take great pride in the two spot-on perpendicular crimp
marks of equal depth which divide the ferrule into perfect thirds. I often
sacrifice two or three early and unsatisfying attempts to the landfill gods
in the process. And yet I'll go an easy year plus without washing my b
I have been using 56% silver and compatible flux to solder the ends of my
stainless steal cables. It works pretty well, but the silver does tarnish
somewhat after time. Here is a quick/crummy iPhone photo,
http://www.flickr.com/photos/31359238@N06/11721719064/
On Sunday, December 29, 2013 10:42
I have been soldering electrical connections for most of my life but I've
not once been able to solder modern SS cables, which is all I use on my
bikes. So instead of solder, I use narrow (1/8") shrink tubing. It doesn't
look as bulky as a typical crimp end. The key to good shrink tube
appli
tin the cable end, slide up the ferrule, stick the torch on the outside of
the ferrule and let the solder suck in to make a classic socket.
On Tuesday, December 31, 2013 10:34:44 PM UTC-6, Benz, Sunnyvale, CA wrote:
>
> You are, of course, correct. However, untwisting the strands a bit to
> cl
You are, of course, correct. However, untwisting the strands a bit to clean
the ends does not necessary mean they cannot be twisted back to their
original twisted configuration. The stainless strands are quite strong and
thus have a bit to go before exceeding their yield and becoming permanently
Is your typical generic brake or derailleur cable today stainless steel? I
mean the ones that come in bulk packaging.
Shoe Goo: I like that idea; anyone care to post a photo of the final
product?
On Mon, Dec 30, 2013 at 9:17 PM, Benz, Sunnyvale, CA
wrote:
> It is possible to solder stainless if
I used electrical tape in a pinch, and found it stayed on day after day,
so I left it there . How about that :) Duct tape would good
too.
Vanity factor ?
Are U kidding ?!!
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Do your heat-shrink insulators allow one to strip the cable through the
housing both ways? What size / color do you use?
Dave in Kansas
On Monday, December 30, 2013 5:29:05 AM UTC-6, William R. wrote:
> I have been using heat shrink wiring insulators for a while now with nice
> results. Abou
I'm still using bee's wax. Simple. Clean. Nice.
Hugh Flynn
Newburyport, MA
On Mon, Dec 30, 2013 at 11:17 PM, Benz, Sunnyvale, CA
wrote:
> It is possible to solder stainless if you use the right flux. Look for
> stainless-specific flux; they usually contain zinc chloride and
> hydrochloric acid
On 12/30/2013 11:17 PM, Benz, Sunnyvale, CA wrote:
You'll want to fray out the individual strands a bit to clean them
with alcohol or something similar before applying the flux,
I thought the entire point of the exercise was to prevent the individual
strands from fraying out. Open that box &
It is possible to solder stainless if you use the right flux. Look for
stainless-specific flux; they usually contain zinc chloride and
hydrochloric acid (read: ensure adequate ventilation). You'll want to fray
out the individual strands a bit to clean them with alcohol or something
similar befo
The comment about unsolder-able stainless cables replacing the old
galvanized ones is spot on. I used to like to solder mine, too - can't do
it any more, though. However, I do like the idea of placing a small piece
of heat shrink on the ends - never thought about doing that before, but
it's a
Up vote that. Finished cables in that way at the shop, then put the end
caps on delicately (CPSC compliant). Those were the MTB heydays and there
was a 60% chance a newly, carefully, built bike would be back in a week or
two after being heavily used off-road and in need of cable/housing cleaning
I'm a huge fan of old school mechanics techniques, but the reason that no
one solders cables anymore is that stainless has all but displaced
galvanized steel for cables on nicely-spec'd bikes. And apart from being
able to take solder, galvanized cables have nothing on good quality
stainless ca
I used to used to end my cables with solder. I would place an iron on the
cable at about a half inch from the end and the place the solder on the cut
end and let it flow up the cable. It worked well. Make sure that there are
no stray strands as they will stick out and you will get poked by that
>
> I like using ferrules. Nothing wrong with soldering, though.
>
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No not so much. But it sounds like a good idea and also would look slick.
~Hugh
On Sunday, December 29, 2013 8:42:10 PM UTC-8, Tom Virgil wrote:
>
> So I don't like cable ends with ferrules that have nasty looking plier
> pinch marks on them. In the old days, I would size the cable, cut it, di
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