Thanks for posting Doug. I just got a Sam and have Albatross bars as I do
on my Bleriot. The Sam seems more sure footed bit I have a 48mm vs 42mm on
the Sam. Drops are not in my reality anymore although I do hold the bars
just before and even on the curve of the bars a bit. Of course I only
It was done as a let's see if it works experiment, not for actual day to
day use. Though the longer top tubes of vintage mountain bikes and many
current Rivs might allow for one of the zero offset stems from Analog
Cycles to work with bar ends and drops.
On Tuesday, October 6, 2020 at 8:26:58
I believe them that it handled fine but I am having a hard time
understanding how the bar-con's aren't an issue with knee clearance. I am
certain I'd be hitting them all the time when I try to stand and pedal
(both the impale and the ghost shift would be unwelcome). I dig the funky
vintage
Your experience supports Rivendell's offering of a variety of bars.
Albatross, Billie, etc., are all variations of the same theme. They all
move weight rearward but offer the hand position up front in the curve of
the handlebars. It would be interesting to overlay some of their bars on
the
I definitely prefer the handling of a hand position in front of the pivot
point, and not too far away from the center-line of the bike. Riding on
the hoods of older, narrower drop bars is like this, ditto some flat bars
if the stem is right. *But* that position is always too far forward for
I’ll should be going down this path in the near future. Working on getting
a used, or new one once they land at Rivendell. For drops I’m planning on
running 46cm Noodles, and for more “casual” bars something like an
Albatross. Pretty excited to see how it’s mannerisms change between the two
I'm beginning to visual this but want to confirm. On the Albatross with
the the 11 cm stem, your hands are roughly in the same place as on the
drops? That makes sense.
With drops and a 10 cm stem, my hands would be 60-70 mm ahead of the stem,
or 160-170 mm ahead of the steering axis. By
Yeah it's because my "neutral" hand position on drops is quite forward of
the end of the stem (something like 12-14 cm) while on the Albaross it'll
be actually a bit back from the end of the stem - so even with the 6cm
shorter stem, the reach to my "80% position" is quite a bit less still
On Sat,
"My Noodle-to-Albatross conversion ratio is a *6cm longer stem* on the
latter (ie 5cm stem for the Noodles and a 11cm stem for the Albatross on my
Sam) "
That's interesting. I did not change the stem when I first put upright
bars on my Atlantis. The hand position took care of the numbness
"I'm going to speculate that he will be back to Boscos with a right length
stem :)"
My guess too. Russ and I have been in communication about the Sam and the
bars and stem - his review is partly what tipped me to commit to one of the
upcoming Sams. We're roughly the same height, though I have a
I'm coming around to the idea that drops can be set up to wildly more
upright than what common knowledge would have you believe so that you can
still get the same assortment of positions but with a more Bosco-like
neutral position. To do this you can run something like this stem
Thanks guys for the input. I've looked at bars on Rivendell's site & they
do have a good selection. Just not sure what I want / need. Bars are fun
to experiment with what a PITA to keep messing with stems, cables, and fine
tuning. Keep those suggestions coming.
dougP
On Saturday, October
Russ actually bought that Sam...so no longer a test bike :)
For three whole days now, I've ridden an Atlantis with Chocos and I really
like my hands at the ends of the bars. The bike handles like a bus, so the
"liveliest" hand placement on that bike is not too jumpy or twitchy.
Plus...I just
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