168 rpm at the crank isn't fun at all, except to boast about; and even then
it's not all that boast-worthy: others reach much higher r's pm. But
112-120 isn't hard at all to maintain -- I used to maintain that -- well,
104 -- 112 actually -- in flatland cruising back in the days when I was
young an
Maybe insane is not the right word? How about un-fun?
I don't know, it's hard for me to imagine the unabridged joy of a long
descent in the mid-upper 30s with legs pulsating not unlike a sewing
machine. Just seems to me like it would take all the fun out of it.
I've seen it before though, was d
180 counting both feet (so half cranks,) is perfectly normal. At least in
the barefoot /minimalist running world, a cadence of 180 steps is normal.
On a bike, that's three strokes per second -- not hard to accomplish at
all. What seems insane to you about 168? I imagine on my QB I max out
aroun
168 crank RPM???
That sounds slightly insane to me, but to each his own.
On Mon, Dec 15, 2014 at 5:23 PM, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> My gofast has a 15 t small and a 17 t big (both fixed) with a single 46 t
> ring (and 24 1/2" actual diameter 650C wheels). My ultimate top speed (at
> least on 2 oc
My gofast has a 15 t small and a 17 t big (both fixed) with a single 46 t
ring (and 24 1/2" actual diameter 650C wheels). My ultimate top speed (at
least on 2 occasions) was 37.5 mph; my typical downhill top speed is 30
mph; and my typical downhill cruising speed is 25 mph. ~168, 136, 112 crank
rpm
e
>> 11 fills a niche to boost me a little faster on a very mild hill before I
>> stop spinning and start braking on a bigger hill. :-)
>>
>> Doug
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com [mailto:rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com]
Hmmm...interesting. If true, this could save me some hassle. Thanks for the
tip, when I get my new bike, I'll definitely check before I start messing
with the pulleys.
Doug Williams
On Sunday, December 14, 2014 9:03:19 AM UTC-8, Clayton.sf wrote:
>
> One thing to note - recent xt model derailer
One thing to note - recent xt model derailers (at least mine) no longer have
the floating upper pulley. So flipping pulleys will have no effect.
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I meant to specify a nominally 27" 700C wheel.
On Fri, Dec 12, 2014 at 5:32 PM, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Gearing is almost as fun to calculate and talk about as to ride.
>
> The jump between an 11 and a 14 (46 t ring -- I assume few on this list
> are using 53s with any "normal" cassette) is 24".
Gearing is almost as fun to calculate and talk about as to ride.
The jump between an 11 and a 14 (46 t ring -- I assume few on this list are
using 53s with any "normal" cassette) is 24". PDB. EDB would be the 28"
between them using the 53.
I love gear fiddling. Even though I ride mostly fixed on
Steve,
Maybe I'm reading Sheldon's Gear Calculator incorrectly, but I get 108.7
gear inches with 46x11 and 650b wheels. So yes...a little high, but not
anything close to 125 (which I admit would be silly). Also, the 14 gives me
85.4 gear inches, so the gap between 11 and 14 would be 23.3 gear i
Just to toss more grit into the gears, Miche makes Shimano-compatible
outers (perhaps Campy ones too) up to 16. I run a 16-26 9 speed on my ram
(with compact 52/38 rings) (very nicely shifted with Silver dt levers
pulling a 7400 DA rd.
I've several times crammed a non-outer-position-specific 14 or
On 12/12/2014 04:38 PM, Doug Williams wrote:
Steve,
I suppose you could do that, but then 13 and 14 are awfully close together. I
couldn't even tell the difference as I lack your finesse. :-)
I have no difficulty at all telling the difference between 13-14-15, the
three 1-tooth gaps on my 9
gt; -Original Message-
>> From: rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com [mailto:rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com]
>> On Behalf Of Steve Palincsar
>> Sent: Friday, December 12, 2014 1:08 PM
>> To: rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com
>> Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting and
...@googlegroups.com ] On Behalf Of Steve Palincsar
> Sent: Friday, December 12, 2014 1:08 PM
> To: rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting and pulleys again
>
> On 12/12/2014 03:57 PM, Doug Williams wrote:
> > Well I do get hills where I li
lincsar
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2014 1:08 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting and pulleys again
On 12/12/2014 03:57 PM, Doug Williams wrote:
> Well I do get hills where I live, and especially when I head north. My
> knees (and the rest of my
On 12/12/2014 03:57 PM, Doug Williams wrote:
Well I do get hills where I live, and especially when I head north. My
knees (and the rest of my body) are not getting any younger. So I like
a full range of gears. I had decided to go with 8 gears for better
friction shifting, and I think I should s
Well I do get hills where I live, and especially when I head north. My
knees (and the rest of my body) are not getting any younger. So I like a
full range of gears. I had decided to go with 8 gears for better friction
shifting, and I think I should stick with that because most people report
pro
Hi Doug,
I have a similar set up to what you're building up:
- 56cm AHH with Suntour friction down tube shifters (Noodle hbar)
- Sugino triple and HG41 8 speed rear.
- Shimano XT front and rear derailers (bit-o-bling, but works nicely)
It works great. For the terrain I ride, the tripl
The side play in the upper pulley goes with Shimano's indexing. The shifter
has a very crisp break when going to the next gear and the abrupt pull of
cable and the tiny bit of over shift caused by this is moderated in
movement of the chain by that rear derailleur's bit of slop in that upper
pul
deeply disturbed..ha! That's funny.
1. *I use Silver bar ends on my Blue 2013 Sam* with the stock RBW build of
the time Deore front derailer and Deore rear derailer, both, with a
non-stock 8-speed Hyperglide cassette, that I got from the RBW site and
everything works great. I do get some auto s
The derailer company designed the derailer to work properly with indexed
shifting systems. That's what more than 90% of their customers use...so no
mystery there. Wobbly upper pulleys work best with indexed shifters. It is
only the small, deeply disturbed minority using friction shifters who
de
They do operate optimally for index shifting, where some wiggle helps
apparently. It doesn't help with friction shifting though.
With abandon,
Patrick
On Thursday, December 11, 2014 5:22:18 PM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote:
>
> Bizarre that a derailer company would design the pulleys that don't
> func
Bizarre that a derailer company would design the pulleys that don't
function optimally in their original orientation.
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For me, swapping the pulleys made a world of difference. I'm on the 9-speed
though. I'd have to look up the numbers, but the range I have is the same
as your's in the rear and in the front is Riv's standard triple set up. I
love the 34 in the rear, as I can stay in the middle front ring for 90%
Agree with Bill on all points. Rivendell' recommended components
work'n'play well together. To your concern about using the 34 cog only
with the 24 ring, you may be favorably impressed with how well the 8 tooth
jump from the 26 to 34 works. A 36 middle ring with a 34 cog will get you
up a lo
I think your component choices all sound lovely. Go ahead and think about
trying an Altus rear derailer. I haven't done that yet, but I have
absolutely gotten to the opinion that when you are friction shifting,
expensive derailers are really overrated. Cheap works great!
Flopping the pulle
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