The crank arm presents challenges for turning the spindle area on a lathe.
Long radius, and off-center mass. I would mount it to a rotary table, then
spin the crank against an end mill.
- Andrew, my basement overflows with tools, Berkeley
On Friday, May 20, 2016 at 11:27:20 AM UTC-7, Bill
Kai,
My set up is the same as Matt's and it's brilliant. The 107bb is what came
with it, so I would start there. But as you say, you're in this route, so
that route now mean a new bb and new cranks so what's to lose? As for the
32, Are you weight conscious? If not, why not keep it on there?
How many gears are you using up front on your QB? I have the two stock
gears on mine (40, 32) and use them both frequently with a white 16/19 FW
in back. I keep the chainline right in the middle with a 107mm BB.
On Friday, May 20, 2016 at 1:42:11 PM UTC-4, Kainalu wrote:
>
> As a wise
Yeah, if the freewheel is engaging too few threads it's probably not a good
idea to use a spacer behind it. But it's been so long since I've dealt
with run-of-the-mill (non-Phil) FW hubs that I had completely forgotten
that you can move the chainline back and forth on those a bit, too, by
George, you make a very good point. I'm hesitant because, in my very limited
freewheel experience, I thought the wasn't all too much thread engagement with
the hub as is. It's an All City branded hub.
How many turns are enough?
And Bill, I used my mill/lathe combination tool, AKA Dremel
Did you use the mill or the lathe? Both present their own challenges in
set-up I'd imagine. The lathe would let you take a pass at an angle,
making it kind of conical. Then you fit inside the BB while maintaining
the surface engagement between crank arm and spindle. With the mill you're
I had a similar problem with a 70's road bike that I wanted to set up as a
single speed, but I focused on the rear end. Dropout spacing was 120mm and
I had a Phil hub that I wanted to use in conjunction with an ENO SS
freewheel. So I unscrewed the axle caps on the Phil, flipped 'em to the
