At the risk of jerking this thread even further awat from the original
intent: has anyone ever gotten Mafac cantilevers to work well? If you did,
how did you do that? Those on my erstwhile Herse were among the worse
brakes I've ever used, and I tried, in front, the longer tandem version as
well as
I'll add: for cantilevers, the front brake housing hanger. I recently
swapped out a very nice, sturdy Shimano steel hanger for a *tres chi chi* RH
hanger because I wanted a headset-mount and stiff hanger to get more drop
(3.5 cm vs 1 cm). The braking is modestly, but noticeably better with the
RH h
At best I can say that "everything matters". The pad, the rim, the brake,
the bike, the rider, the conditions, the intangibles ... all that equates
to infinite variety of what's called "the experience". Heck, it varies from
day to day for that matter. While I've used mostly Kool Stop pads over
Pads, brakes, brake levers, rim braking surface, and even the frame and
fork that the brakes are mounted on -- they are an integrated system, they
all work together to slow and/or stop the spinning wheels. Change any one
part and, for better or worse, you've altered the system.
On Tuesday, De
I've run both DC 750 centerpulls and Silver sidepulls on my Sam. Both work
great. Just depends on your preference. Obviously to use center-pulls you
need to to add cable hangers front and rear. Front is a standard piece. I
used the Nitto "keychain" hanger from Riv in the back and it worked well.
Hi, Jay! Glad to hear you're getting so much good use out of your green
Hillborne. Yeah, I might be missing it a little. :-) Yours has posts for cantis
or V's. I think the newer frames don't have those posts, so I might need a set
of Silver sidepulls, or equivalents.
Take care!
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Nice set-up, Charlie -- thanks.
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Forrest, are you missing your Sam? It's alive and well in Tel Aviv and
happily commuting 20+ miles RT.
FWIW I've got v-brakes on it which work just fine. Waiting for Alba to
arrive next month.
Jay
On Sunday, April 14, 2013 10:16:25 PM UTC+3, Forrest wrote:
>
> I'm looking at the 56 cm blue sing
Yes, it appears so given the fact that Grant designed the clearances for
wider taller tires. If you like side pulls for their simplicity go for
it.Riv will get you set up. I just prefer center pull brakes. They take
a little more hardware to install but I like the look and feel of them.
He
Thanks, Charlie. If sidepulls, do they need to be something like the
long-reach Silvers? -- Forrest
On Sunday, April 14, 2013 5:28:35 PM UTC-5, charlie wrote:
>
> Side or centerpulls (Dia Compe's are fine and Paul's if you afford them).
> I run centerpull Dia Compe brakes on my Sam and they are
Side or centerpulls (Dia Compe's are fine and Paul's if you afford them). I
run centerpull Dia Compe brakes on my Sam and they are greatsuper easy
set up, great modulation and coupled with some Kool Stop pads they stop
plenty good for my 260 pound body.
On Sunday, April 14, 2013 12:16:25 PM
Excellent idea! I've noticed the same.
On Wednesday, March 20, 2013, William wrote:
> Rene
>
> Also look to the straddle cable itself on the Paul in front. Make sure
> that it's straightened out. Make sure that none of your lever travel is
> used up simply pulling the arc shape out of the strad
Rene
Also look to the straddle cable itself on the Paul in front. Make sure
that it's straightened out. Make sure that none of your lever travel is
used up simply pulling the arc shape out of the straddle cable. Pauls, in
my experience, are shipped with a pretty stiff straddle cable, and you
Me thinks you missed the first post, Michael. The front brake is a Paul
Racer center-pull, and the lever is Tektro 4.1 reverse-type.
On Tuesday, March 19, 2013 5:37:12 PM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:
> It's hard for me to imagine the neo retros not stopping a bike. I have
> found they work b
It's hard for me to imagine the neo retros not stopping a bike. I have
found they work best with a very hi straddle cable. I aim for a 90 degree
angle between the arm and cable and find that provides the best results.
What are your levers? I have found that the Shimano Integrated levers do
I'll try that, but the pads are already quite close to the rims. On the
flats, they start biting quite early on the travel of the lever. Also,
these levers are designed for cantilever and sidepull brakes, so it's
strange that they wouldn't work.
The other thing I'm going to try, is to raise the yo
You might want to try mounting the pads closer to the rims as they would be
on a tt/tri-bike, which is primarily what these levers were designed for.
If you compare the arc of mtb and road levers, there is noticeably more air
between the lever and bar, giving you more travel before bottoming out
Delta Aztec DuraCote cables are the slickest I've ever come across. When I
replaced a rear cable with one of these, using my same Yokozuna housings, I
can feel no difference in the effort between front and rear - this is
something I have ever experienced before.
On Sunday, November 18, 2012
You may be right about the cable routing. The rear brake has a lot
more friction than the front.
On Nov 19, 4:19 am, dougP wrote:
> Jay:
>
> This is interesting. I have exactly the same set-up as you on my
> Atlantis & couldn't be happier. The Deores are the plain ones that
> Riv had on close-o
Jay:
This is interesting. I have exactly the same set-up as you on my
Atlantis & couldn't be happier. The Deores are the plain ones that
Riv had on close-out last year, just plain Deore with no extra letters
or fiddly pads. Before that I had Tektro 720s for a long time (with
the appropriate lev
I was extatic about the IRD high-pro cantis Riv set up on the erstwhile Sam
Hillborne, with salmon pads, of course. Best brakes I've used: as powerful
as any V I've used, and as my Avid BB7s, and modulated better than either.
Tektro levers, fwiw.
On Sun, Nov 18, 2012 at 1:27 PM, Jay in Tel Aviv w
My wife tells me the correct spelling is "ecstatic"
I knew "extatic" didn't look right.
On Nov 18, 10:23 pm, Jay in Tel Aviv wrote:
> When I built my Sam last summer I selected what I thought were
> reasonably priced drive train components that function reasonably
> well. One result I am less
Gernot,
Your photo and explanation make it very clear. You'e even answered what
would have been my next question about the Harris Cyclery statement "This
can solve a number of problems..."
Thanks,
...Roy
On Fri, Mar 12, 2010 at 1:54 AM, Earl Grey wrote:
> Look at http://www.flickr.com/photos/25
You can probably get the reach you need with a recessed brake bolt
from a standard road caliper, although the Sheldon nuts may be what
you would want with the fender.
On Mar 11, 9:09 pm, Earl Grey wrote:
> I had squealing with BR550s on an Indy Fab Planet X. Finally solved
> with massive toe OUT.
I had the shimano Br 550 cantis and found I could control the squeal,
but setup was aweful and stopping power very poor. After a near death
experience, compliments of shimano, I bought the Neo Retros and have
loved everything about them. I no longer think about buying any other
brand of brake for
That would never work for me. Right now, the Hillborne has Tektro 720
brakes and the front straddle hanger is a good two inches higher than
in that photo. Just slightly under the headbadge.
In that setup, the hanger clears everything, Nitto rack, front fender,
and even the back of the Lil' Loafe
Look at http://www.flickr.com/photos/25150...@n08/4426738206/
The long bolt goes through your fork crown, and the forged part rises
up from it to accept the cable housing. The idea is that flex between
cantilever bosses and cable hanger are minimized. As braking force is
applied, the forks bend ba
A month or two ago, I studied the picture of item CAH59 for a good 10
minutes, but I never figured out how it worked. Instead I installed a
traditional housing stop on the headset. I'm still curious to know what
CAH59 does An explanation or picture would be great.
Thanks,
...Roy
On Fri, Mar 12,
I had squealing with BR550s on an Indy Fab Planet X. Finally solved
with massive toe OUT. Toe in didn't do squat.
Have Tektro 720s on my Hillborne. Using a fork crown mounted Tektro
cable hanger, no squeal, without any toe in. Switched to a regular
headset mounted cable hanger, instant squeal, eve
Seth,
I have a set of Mafacs and have the same experience as you...no
squeal.
I have a set of Mafac copies (similar geometry) and they squealed and
vibrated, a toe in adjustment (wrench) and they merely vibrated.
They were quite loose on the cantilever post, the Mafacs are
noticeably tighter. I
Back when I had an Atlantis, it had Paul Touring front and rear.
They'd squeal, adjust toe in, no squeal.
You do have to adjust to the toe in as the pads wear.
I toss the cheesy hangers they come with a get some Mafac
hangers from a 1st class LBS, adds a little humor.
The Cafams are cheaper and loo
yes, all brakes need to be set up correctly to minimize squeal.
Somtimes the fork design can be a factor, but the Rivendell bikes have
pretty beefy forks so that should not be an issue.
I also have had good luck with the Tektro CR720's.
On Mar 9, 5:31 am, "Scott G." wrote:
> Back when I had an At
I started with the Paul Touring canti's on my Hillborne. No squealing
right out of the box and they stop very well. Can't say that about the
Avids on my Soma.. always playing with the front. You should also
consider IRD Cafam. Very similar to the Paul neo-retros at a lower
price point... but not M
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