My brother-in-law's main hobbies are fishing and scuba diving. He recently
had to replace the twin outboard motors on his boat at about $15000 per
motor (it's quite a large boat), and he has a $7 top of the line
Landcruiser to be able to tow said boat to the places where he wants to go
My experience with the coloured Brooks saddles is that the colour wears off
on the contact points and the natural colour of the leather shows through.
I have a green Brooks on one bike and a grey one on another, and on both
saddles the area where my sit bones contact has gone back to the
AFAIK, the 107 and 110 will give the same chainline - the extra 3mm is all
on the non-drive side.
Nick
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to
The AT with a 127mm BB is going to have pretty much the same with at the
pedal eyes as, for example, an XD with a 107mm BB. The reason for that is
that the XD arms bow out about 10mm each from BB end to pedal end, whereas
the AT don't bow out at all. The only possible problem with the AT might
in those
sort of temperatures.
If you tend to suffer from cold hands, lobster mitts are good, as they
minimise the amount of surface area through which heat is lost. I have some
Carnac ones, and my wife has some Pearl Izumi:
[image: 0177487f-06b8-474d-b4d7-e4111a6374c2[1].jpg]
Nick Payne
Canberra
On Wednesday, 24 March 2021 at 9:36:05 am UTC+11 Jason Fuller wrote:
> You know it's a light bike when Compass Extralight tires are considered an
> exception to the otherwise lightweight spec. It is a cool bike, despite
> being quite literally the opposite of a Grant bike.
>
> Question is,
The upper eyelet on the dropout and the braze-on a couple of inches up the
seatstay are a standard M6x1 thread. The other braze-ons and dropout
eyelets are M5x0.8 thread.
Nick
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch" group.
To
located in Canberra.
Photos of the bike: https://photos.app.goo.gl/XDhzdHT2s41UNETr9.
Nick Payne
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to rbw-ow
Yes, although I have a decent workstand, for cleaning chains etc I more
often just hang bikes between a pair of ropes which attach to eyebolts on
the opposite walls.
Nick
On Tuesday, 9 March 2021 at 8:12:26 am UTC+11 Justin Drake wrote:
> Wow - Lots of room, Nick. Is the black road bike in
My Appaloosa frame is a 57cm. I just measured the C-C distance between the
upper eyelet on the dropout and the braze-on attachment on the fork leg as
232mm. FWIW, the Tara rack I have is the stainless steel model, though I
doubt that there are any dimensional differences between that and the
I'd say so-called tubeless-compatible tyres aren't necessary unless you
need to buy new tyres. For several years now I've been running Hutchinson
Confrérie des 650B tyres tubeless on one bike (Velocity A23 rims) and Grand
Bois Lierre tubeless on another (MCFK i25 hookless rims), and although
If your existing wheels are not tubeless-compatible, Muc-Off sell sealant
intended for use in inner tubes rather than tubeless. According to this
review (https://road.cc/content/review/muc-inner-tube-sealant-277333), it
works as advertised, and should seal punctures caused by goat heads. If
Depends on what size tyre you will be using and whether you will be fitting
mudguards, as not all V-brakes have the same length arms. On my Appaloosa,
with mudguards fitted, The Deore XT 780 V-brakes I had just scrape the top
of the front mudguard and can't be fitted on the back because they
On Tuesday, 24 August 2021 at 9:02:59 am UTC+10 Eric Daume wrote:
> I've never used the GB brake, but I've found the R559 to be particularly
> weak. The long arms flex so much, I had to set the pads at the very bottom
> of the brake track so the brake pads wouldn't hit the tire as the arms
>
It seems narrow Q (tread) was a thing even 125 years ago. This poem is from
the October 17, 1896 issue of the Australian magazine "The Bulletin":
*The Man With Rubber Pedals*
*by Montague Grover*
It has all the latest fixings — barrel hubs and narrow tread;
It weighs twenty pounds or
I don't know what NTS means either. As for weight, yes some bikes of that
time were very light - I think Dursley-Pedersens could be well under 20lbs.
Nick
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and
On Tuesday, 24 August 2021 at 4:52:29 am UTC+10 ttoshi wrote:
> The R559s work much better than Diacompe 750s (in my hands), but I don't
> have experience with the GBs. The Compass/Mafac do really well too, but I
> haven't had those on the same bike as R559s to do a direct comparison.
>
I
My Barlow Pass measure 40mm after several months use, mounted on 22mm
internal width rims (Light Bicycle AR28 disc rims).
Nick
On Tuesday, 14 September 2021 at 6:50:05 am UTC+10 cycli...@gmail.com wrote:
> Wow Collin, you're getting 41mm on the Barlows? I get 40mm on the
> Snoqualmie Pass
With the clamp bolt loosened, is the seatpost a good or loose fit in the
seat tube? A seatpost should fit in the frame with no perceptible slop
before the clamp bolt is tightened. My Appaloosa was nominally supposed to
take a 26.8mm seatpost, and a 26.8mm seatpost was supplied with the frame.
That surprises me. I've been fitting band-on front derailleurs for about
half a century, and can't recall ever even damaging paintwork, let alone
denting a seat tube. Mind you, 4Nm is quite a lot - I'm rather surprised
that the marked setting would be that high. I've never used a torque wrench
Spa Cycles in the UK sell them in various sizes for chainrings from 36t to
48t. I have a couple and they're quite nicely made. They also sell their
own brand 110BCD chainrings which are good quality.
Nick
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
On Friday, 13 August 2021 at 5:19:50 am UTC+10 Matthew P wrote:
> Ignoring Sram because I am unfamiliar, and a road vs. mtb/mtn difference,
> lets say within Shimano mtb/mtn freehub bodies and cassettes, the widths
> are the same 8 speed through 12 speed. Double check me here:
>
One of the problems with using a dropout extender that moves the whole
derailleur down, to work with a larger cassette than the design spec, is
that the shifting becomes pretty bad in the smaller cogs, because the top
jockey pulley is now a considerable distance from those cogs.
Nick
--
You
I used a Goatlink (https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/goatlink)
when using a GRX 810 RD (rated for 34t cassette) with an 11-42 cassette and
two chainrings up front. But you need a shadow RD for that to work, which
yours isn't.
Nick
--
You received this message because you are
On Sunday, 10 October 2021 at 5:55:01 am UTC+11 brizbarn wrote:
> Hey Nick, great looking bike. It looks like you are maxed out on width
> for the front fender, or is there a little more room to spare? Are your
> fenders the Velo Orange Fluted 63mm? I like the VOs for the price, but am
>
Lugs are made for 28.6mm (1-1/8") seat tubes. If the frame uses a seat tube
with 0.7mm wall thickness at the top, then it will take a 27.2mm seatpost
(28.6 - 2 * 0.7). If you use a seattube with thicker 0.9mm walls (say for a
touring bike designed to carry a load), then that will take a 28.6mm
On Tuesday, 19 October 2021 at 7:37:04 pm UTC+11 Nick Payne wrote:
> If you use a seattube with thicker 0.9mm walls (say for a touring bike
> designed to carry a load), then that will take a 28.6mm seatpost.
>
That should have been 26.8mm seatpost, not 28.6.
--
You received thi
I have a couple of older Rivendell frames (a Romulus and a Bleriot) that
both take 27.2 seatposts. I was a bit surprised, when I bought an Appaloosa
frame, that it came with a 26.8 seatpost. As the seatpost was a slightly
loose fit in the frame, and I don't like those single bolt Kalloy
On Monday, 11 October 2021 at 6:54:09 am UTC+11 Nick Payne wrote:
> On Sunday, 10 October 2021 at 5:55:01 am UTC+11 brizbarn wrote:
>
>> Hey Nick, great looking bike. It looks like you are maxed out on width
>> for the front fender, or is there a little more room to spare? Ar
I have used tubeless tyres with sealant on road bikes. However, where I
live these days I get few punctures, so there's not a great advantage to
using sealant. There is a decided disadvantage if you have a lot of bikes -
I have about a dozen that I alternate between - I'll ride one for a couple
On Sunday, 3 October 2021 at 4:10:29 am UTC+11 kwi...@weimar.edu wrote:
> What kind of seat post rack are you using? Is it custom? It looks like
> an ideal rack solution.
>
I got a local framebuilder to make it for me, and had it chromed by a local
business.
Nick
--
You received this
I'd agree. Every change to Google groups has been for the worse, the mobile
interface is now pretty unusable, and it's become more and more difficult
to include images in a post.
Nick
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch" group.
To
I'm quite happy with the pair of Pedros that I've had for many years.
Nick
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to
As someone who owned a couple of Duopars back in the 1980s, they worked
better than anything else around at the time when new, but they were rather
flimsy and easily bent, and even if you managed to avoid bending them, they
wore out rather quickly in real world conditions.
The Jubilee was just
According to this test, Fluid Film works best:
https://www.mtbr.com/threads/anti-corrosion-product-shootout.1073581/.
Nick
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it,
The Nitto S84 lugged seatpost has more setback than their aluminium
seatposts...
[image: 111368887233_691ba91b48_b[1].jpg]
Nick
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from
Most of my music is ripped from physical CDs, of which I must have
somewhere around 1000, but I have purchased some recordings via iTunes.
Once I have the music files downloaded in iTunes, I back them up a) to my
media server, and b) to my phone, and I play them either from the media
server -
On Monday, 15 November 2021 at 10:38:48 am UTC+11 Patrick Moore wrote:
> "Album." Now there's an out-of-date term; even LPs weren't truly "albums,"
> which named thick collections of shellac 78s in bound sleeves. (I do
> remember turntables with 78, 45, and 33 1/3 rpm speed selections, though.)
.
On Wednesday, 27 October 2021 at 11:22:49 am UTC+11 Ryan wrote:
> + 4 for O'Brien...reading Tim Winton *The Shepherd's Hut * right
> now...have read others...terrific writer...Nick, maybe you've heard of him?
> On Tuesday, October 26, 2021 at 2:32:19 PM UTC-5 Nick Payne wrote:
>
>&
+3 for Patrick O'Brien's Aubrey-Maturin series. I have them as physical
books, bought over many years as the series was published, as eBooks on my
eReader, and quite a number of them also as audiobooks from Audible, read
by Ric Jerrom - I listen to those in the car.
Nick
--
You received
On Sunday, 7 November 2021 at 7:18:19 am UTC+11 jkg...@gmail.com wrote:
> To put the cassette on the hub, I need to replace the free hub body on the
> rear hub (DT Swiss 350). Apparently it's easy to do, but the people at DT
> Swiss don't know if the frame is compatible with an 11 speed
The largest size 11-speed road cassettes (11-34) will fit on 9/10-speed
freehubs. Smaller ones won't.
On Tuesday, 9 November 2021 at 6:55:36 am UTC+11 lconley wrote:
> New Shimano 11 speed mountain cassettes fit on the old 9 speed Shimano
> cassette hubs (when there was no difference between
Shimano are pretty conservative with their derailleur ratings. If the
nominal max cog size for your RD is 32t, I'd be surprised if it couldn't
cope with a 34t cassette by using the B screw to move the top jockey wheel
further down. On our tandem, I have an Ultegra 8000 RD that nominally
allows
On Tuesday, 9 November 2021 at 7:51:00 am UTC+11 Joe Bernard wrote:
> He already has a cassette, I believe it's road range to work with his 105
> derailer.
>
> What I don't understand is DT Swiss saying the new freehub will fit his
> current hub 8/9/10 hub.
>
Not without also changing to a
Cyclingabout recently published an article on the subject of bike weight,
and how little it matters:
https://www.cyclingabout.com/why-we-should-stop-our-obsession-with-bike-and-gear-weight/
.
Nick
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch"
On Sunday, 18 July 2021 at 3:19:20 am UTC+10 john...@gmail.com wrote:
> @Nick Payne Rivendell has all kinds of stuff on their site that you can
> do yourself but they don't put on their complete bikes as standard.
> Adjustable cup BBs, shellack over bar tape, cork grips, home made pum
Rivendell themselves put clear plastic protection on the drive side
chainstay of their frames - both the Rivendell frames I have came with the
protection already installed - so I don't see that you can say it's not
very Riv-ish.
For protecting the toptubes of the bikes, which have the bare
I grew up in Perth, Western Australia, which is certainly the windiest city
in Australia and probably somewhere up there on a world basis (I think
Wellington in New Zealand is generally regarded as taking the prize for
that). During late summer and autumn in Perth, we often get strong easterly
I only use tubeless setup on the one bike that I regularly ride several
times each week. On other bikes, which might spend several weeks at a time
hanging up and not being ridden, I don't set them up as tubeless, even if
they have tubeless-compatible tyres and rims, because while the bikes are
The freewheel mechanisms in my hubs vary from Onyx (completely silent),
through Shimano (fairly quiet), DT Swiss (not so quiet), to Hope (pretty
loud). But I can't say that I really think about or notice hub noise when
I'm riding. I really only notice it when I'm servicing bikes in the garage.
I think the S67 is the black version of the S65. I prefer the S83 (aka
Frog), with its two bolt setup vs the single bolt of the S65/67. It's much
easier to make fine adjustments to the saddle angle with the S83.
Nick
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
Back in 2015 Kraftwerk played a gig at the TdF *Grand Depart* in Utrecht.
There's an interview in *Rolling Stone* with Ralf Hütter where he talks
about their long association with cycling:
After having tried quite a number of different saddles over the years, my
wife has the Selle Italia Lady Gel flow saddle (in the 160mm wide L size)
on all her bikes: https://www.selleitalia.com/en/saddles/lady-gel-flow-s/.
Nick
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the
That setup of mine is pretty quick release. Takes about 15 seconds to
unhook the Voile straps and enlarge their loop so that the bag can be
detached from the support, and slightly longer to hook them up when
re-installing.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
My experience is that the clear stick-on plastic chainstay protection lasts
for decades without visible deterioration. My late 90s Riv custom came with
one installed, and it's still in place without visible damage - in fact
it's very hard to see unless you look closely. And on my Bleriot, as
I find my Hope hubs (quite noisy when freewheeling) are useful on
bikepaths. When approaching pedestrians from behind, a quick freewheel is
usually enough to get their attention without having to ring my bell.
Nick
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
On Thursday, 27 January 2022 at 6:36:02 am UTC+11 Joe Bernard wrote:
> I remember in the very early years of Riv that Grant mentioned Bullseye
> hubs do this and to basically ignore it. Until I've done a
> *lot *more riding..ignore it I shall.
>
I have some Bullseye hubs that are now almost
>From looking at the Riv website, they show the newer model Onyx Vesper
hubs, which are lighter and have smaller narrower sprags than their
original models. However, I have seen a few messages on various MTB forums
from users who have had problems with these newer hubs. I've had a pair of
the
On Thursday, 14 April 2022 at 6:11:06 am UTC+10 Fullylugged wrote:
> Rams shipped as completes with non machined Arraya rims. Grant touted them
> as longer lasting due to thicker wall material than machined.
Yes, the Romulus that I bought about 20 years ago came with Araya RC-540
rims.
--
Cables for Campagnolo shifters have a slightly smaller head than those for
Shimano/SRAM, by about 0.1-0.2mm. If you install a Shimano/SRAM cable in a
Campagnolo shifter, you'll have similar problems trying to extract it when
it needs replacing.
Nick Payne
--
You received this message because
On Sunday, 10 September 2023 at 10:32:26 am UTC+10 J wrote:
I think only Apple users can view these
No, I can view HEIC images on Windows 11 using the Paint application from
Microsoft.
Nick Payne
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
O
on the North Sea
cycle route that that was broadcast about ten years ago.
Nick Payne
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to rbw-owners-bunc
of
Roeckl lobster mitts over thin woolen gloves keep my fingers feeling OK.
For feet I have a pair of Shimano winter shoes - I think the model is MW7.
The best skullcaps for those sort of temperatures I've found, that will fit
under a helmet, are made by Vaude.
Nick Payne
--
You received
OK with the B screw
in a few turns.
Nick Payne
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.co
fine
almost 40 years later, though they're now pretty rusty. BG doesn't make
racks any longer, but I've also had no problems using Tubus steel racks on
my own tourer. I bought their stainless steel racks (Tara front, Fly rear).
Nick Payne
--
You received this message because you are subscribed
standard as it was the seatpost size used on most frames built with
Reynolds 531C.
Nick Payne
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to rbw-ow
I've raced on and off for ~40 years, and when I was still working, I quite
frequently used to roll up for the 6am training rides with the local racing
cyclists on the Bleriot that I commuted on, complete with mudguards and
Carradice camper longflap saddlebag containing my work clothes, lunch,
I have the Tektro R556/R559 (the only difference between the two is that
the R559 has a lock on the quick release lever) on three bikes, and the
braking is fine on all of them. On one bike I have Shimano R400 brake
levers, another one has SRAM Force double-tap integrated shift/brake
levers,
I'll second the nail varnish suggestion. Several of my bikes (including a
Riv custom with a Joe Bell paint job) have repairs to the paintwork that
I've done with nail varnish - on some of them the varnish has been there
the best part of 20 years, and is still protecting the frame.
Nick
--
I dislike flat handlebars so much that back in the days when I had an MTB,
I took the flat bars off it and substituted drop bars after the first
couple of rides. Drop bars offer multiple different hand positions, which I
find very useful on long rides:
1. holding the straight section of
49d / 93 / 99 are all Stronglight (not TA) crank models, and they use a
different extractor thread size. See here:
https://steintool.com/portfolio-items/stronglight-and-ta-crank-extractors/.
On Tuesday, 23 August 2022 at 3:25:32 am UTC+10 Charlie wrote:
> used to remove TA cranks #49d-93-99
I'd say that your middle chainring is probably quite worn, to the point
where the teeth refused to let go of the bottom run of the chain and
carried it up and around until it jammed under the derailleur and top run
of chain. As to how to avoid it, replace chainrings before they get to that
There's also a good documentary on her: "Who is Dervla Murphy". I rented it
and watched it a while ago. Worth the money. The trailer is here:
https://vimeo.com/ondemand/dervlamurphy.
Nick
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch" group.
I had a tandem fork repaired where the crown had cracked. The builder (not
the original builder of the tandem) heated the crown enough so that he
could remove the steerer and fork blades, cleaned them up, and fitted a new
fork crown.
Nick
--
You received this message because you are
On Saturday, 6 August 2022 at 1:26:16 am UTC+10 George Schick wrote:
> Interestingly, I have either B-17's or a Flyer on all but one of my bikes
> and I ride them without issue. The 4th one, however, has a Team Pro,
> probably the narrowest of the Brooks saddles and whenever I ride that one I
On Friday, 12 August 2022 at 6:06:48 am UTC+10 aeroperf wrote:
> I tried the Schwalbe Marathon 622x37 at 65 psi for a year. It was like
> riding through mud
>
There are multiple different models that Schwalbe call Marathon. Have a
look here: https://www.schwalbe.com/en/city-tour - there are a
So far as Rivendell models go, I have:
A Riv custom frame from late last century
A Romulus
A Bleriot
An Appaloosa
If I could only keep one, it would probably be the Bleriot, as the closest
thing to an all-round bike.
Nick
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
The Nitto Fairweather M174AA bar has 75mm reach, and comes in widths from
380mm to 460mm. 25.4mm clamp diameter.
https://global.bluelug.com/fairweather-m174aa-all-road-bar-silver.html
Nick
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch" group.
On Friday, 9 December 2022 at 10:12:54 am UTC+11 jackd...@gmail.com wrote:
> My Hunqapillar is the favorite in the stable, but I think a case can
> really be made to bring back the Bleriot. Classic geometry, MIT (I believe)
> to keep the price reasonable, and I'd argue that the decal
>
On Saturday, 3 December 2022 at 2:24:41 pm UTC+11 Scott wrote:
> John, the Atlantis I purchased new from Riv last month takes a 31.8 clamp
> FD. Yours is a 28.6? They must have changed along the way?
>
I think you'll find your Atlantis seat tube is 28.6mm diameter (AKA 1⅛").
That's what the
On Thursday, 24 November 2022 at 7:44:57 am UTC+11 John Hawrylak wrote:
>
> Interesting comparison between the Open and the Rivendell.
>
> Are you using seatposts with the same amount of seatpost setback on the
> Romulus and the Open???The STA for a 61cm/Large frame are very close
>
Ditto on the Kool Stop City pads in salmon. That's what I'm using with the
V-brakes on my Appaloosa. As Steven says, they're short enough that they
don't hit the fork blades when opening the brake for wheel removal, making
it easy to drop out a fat-tyred wheel without deflating the tyre.
You'll need a set of external BB cups for a 30mm spindle, and a couple of
2.5mm spacers to go under the cups, given that your frame has a 68mm rather
than 73mm BB shell. And if it hasn't already been done, it's definitely
worth getting the BB shell chased and faced to ensure that the cups are
On Friday, 18 November 2022 at 2:18:11 pm UTC+11 pi...@gmail.com wrote:
> Look at a modern gravel bike like the Open UPPER (which Jan Heine praises
> as the ideal "all road" bike --- to the point where they're going to sell a
> special Rene Herse edition of it on their website) and the
I think the Viva brass hammer bells are uncoated and weather quite nicely.
[image: image-85-600x600[1].jpeg]
Nick
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
I always chase and face BB shell threads before installing a bottom
bracket. Almost universally I find there is some misalignment and/or
distortion that the taps and facing cutters correct. Even custom frames
from well-known builders benefit from having this done.
Ditto for the reaming of the
They're not going to fit through the fork without a bit of work to narrow
them where they pass through. I have the VO 63mm fenders on my Appaloosa
(they actually measure 63.5mm), and there's only a fraction of a millimetre
clearance each side where they pass between the fork blades - I fitted
On Friday, 27 January 2023 at 12:57:25 pm UTC+11 Paul M wrote:
My recent Susie calls for a 26.8 seatpost but with the stock Kalloy
seatpost there is a fair amount of play. I had a 27.0 Kalloy seatpost that
fit snug and solved the problem. I'm not sure a Nitto 26.8 seatpost would
have solved the
If you want fenders to actually catch the maximum amount of spray when it's
raining and/or the roads are wet, then metal fenders with a rolled edge, a
la Honjo or Berthoud, do a better job of minimising the amount of spray
that comes out the side of the fenders than do the plastic fenders.
the
paint being worn off by the fender.
Nick Payne
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.co
a 1.8mm
spacer on the inside of the cassette, or the lockring will bottom out
before it has tightened on the cassette.
Nick Payne
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving e
sculpting of the
cage on a triple FD is intended for use with chainrings where there is a
reasonably large jump in the number of teeth between the granny and middle
chainrings, and a considerably smaller jump between the middle and outer
chainrings.
Nick Payne
--
You received this message b
Can't say anything about the Thompson post, but I have both the XC Pro and
S83, and the setback is the same on both within a millimetre or two (that's
to the front of the saddle rail clamp, which is what determines how far
back you can set the saddle).
Some of the Kalloy UNO posts look to have
I'll chime in on the side of those who find the Tektro 556/559 calipers
stop well (Koolstop pads, Shimano R400 brake levers). I've had my Bleriot
with 556 calipers on tours in the mountains several times, and not had any
problems with inadequate stopping power. The braking isn't as good as with
-kangaroos/
.
Nick Payne
Canberra
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this
(eg https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803775069380.html). Probably OK for
home use, but I have no idea of the quality.
Nick Payne
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving e
It's an English term for derailleurs that's been around for decades. I can
remember seeing it in English cycling magazines in the 1970s when I first
became interested in cycling.
Nick Payne
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners Bunch&q
My Romulus (cheaper version of the Rambouillet) will fit 32s with SKS
fenders using Sheldon fender nuts. With Berthoud stainless steel fenders
I'm limited to 28mm tyres, due to the extra clearance needed under the fork
crown for the daruma bolt.
Nick Payne
--
You received this message
Roeckl gloves seem to last, are nicely padded, and, depending on the model,
both the long finger and short finger come with or without velcro
fastenings.
https://roeckl.de/#Multi:B2C/catalog/10
Nick
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW
Owners
On Friday, 31 March 2023 at 12:22:28 am UTC+11 Garth wrote:
With cartridge BB's however, having the two sides perfectly aligned isn't
critical as it is with cups and cones. In fact it has no bearing on it's
function, pardon the pun. So for straightening/cleaning out threads the
Hozan or home
201 - 300 of 343 matches
Mail list logo
