So, among the usual shirts and gift cards I find a pair of 1/16th scale R/C
tanks. My wife (bless her soul) mistook my serious look for disapointment.
After the disrobing of the first vehicle, (a Tiger I) I was looking very
closely at how it was constructed. I was suprised to find that it had
See more on teh performance of DW960s, thanks to Joe Sommer, in
http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=ChrysKane&p=r
mainly:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FC_93Ovjkuw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=89M-qjcU6NM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SwKGqyoZyz0
in tall grass
http://www.youtube.com/wat
>From the Anvilus.com website:
24VDC reversible - 350W - 9.8 speed reducer - weight 6.1 lbs
385 rpm CCW no load, 1.5A - 375 rpm CW no load, 1.4A - 445 in.lbf stall at 103A
includes 9T #42 sprocket for bicycle roller chain
11mm DIA shaft, 18mm total length, 9mm threaded length, 4mm key
Mine are m
I was just pullin Frank's chain. I knew he had the M-01 motors in his
tank. I have them too. Great motors at any price from Joe. It has
been said before, but if you buy them make sure they are VERY securely
mounted. They have broken more than one mounting setup with their
torque.
Derek
On T
very appealing, much better than wasting money on drills which I have
to butcher to get mounted
so with the reduction gear are they turning the wheel at engine output
shaft speed? no gearing required?
On Dec 31, 12:06 pm, "Chris. b" wrote:
> ^thats the ones, I get them from there. You might pa
You can download Google sketchup (its free) and search for tiger I in
the google model inventory on the internet. There is a couple of them
there and they are really good. Some aren't 100% to scale with the
real thing but its close enough for what we do.
Another option would be to download a pape
Doug Conn wrote:
>
> A few tankers have suggested that I could improve my track reliability
> by joining my two formerly independent rear idlers. My track is built
> on two lengths of attachment chain (see T058). Connecting the idlers
> should keep the two chains ‘in sync’ and help to prevent t
^thats the ones, I get them from there. You might pay a little more
for these but you have to remember they come with a reduction gear
already built in, so they are ready to go, no more big, heavy,
expensive reduction setups...
Chris. b
On Dec 31, 10:43 am, Modena wrote:
> are these the ones?ht
are these the ones?
http://www.anvilus.com/motor01.html
where do you get them?
On Dec 31, 11:39 am, "Chris. b" wrote:
> ^I can second that. You will not find a motor better suited to RC
> tanks at that price. It's not like they draw huge amps either.
>
> Chris. b
>
> On Dec 31, 10:16 am, Frank
^I can second that. You will not find a motor better suited to RC
tanks at that price. It's not like they draw huge amps either.
Chris. b
On Dec 31, 10:16 am, Frank Pittelli wrote:
> Derek Engelhaupt wrote:
> > Is that a 500W combined power rating Frank, are you saying Joe's
> > motors don't ha
Another tank which has been on my wish list for years, I'll build one
one day. The 17pdr version is Particularly nasty!
Chris. b
On Dec 31, 8:03 am, Pureteenlard wrote:
> Perhaps you should build one of these?
>
> http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/6f/AC3_tank_(AWM_1011...
>
> http
Derek Engelhaupt wrote:
> Is that a 500W combined power rating Frank, are you saying Joe's
> motors don't have enough power at 300W/each? Just kidding.
Yes, that's the "combined" minimum power required to perform well on the
battlefield. In other words, you should use "two" motors which ha
> Basically, our
> tanks need 500+ watts of power to turn properly and KCMs simply don't
> have that much power. There simply isn't enough mass in the magnets and
> coils to convert enough battery (Dr. Sommer can provide the exact
> technical terms and values if you'd like more details on the s
You'll have to let me know if it works better for you Doug. I'm
interested for my own selfish reasons;)
Derek
On Tue, Dec 30, 2008 at 10:24 AM, Doug Conn wrote:
>
> Thanks for the kind words, Tom and Frank.
>
> Frank, I like your idea about the angled grooves. They would look great.
> Unfo
Perhaps you should build one of these?
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/6f/AC3_tank_(AWM_101155).jpg
http://www.tankinfo.ru/Country/Australy/images/sentinelACIII_02.png
A brilliant design, in my opinion, that would have been as good as
anything available to the allies unti the M2
Yeah, I know it will be cheap to buy a model, but I don't feel like
spending money one that, when I could save it for the real thing, even
if it is only a few $
I think I've got a good model going right now, it sort-of looks like
the real thing, just got to touch up a few things.
Plus, I don't thi
Oh for pities sake, people, I have never done or said anything zany
or, heaven forbid, wacky in my life. I'm English and, as such, my
ideas may be eccentric but never zany . . . Also, the 4 hours you
spend with me on the journey down to Essex, Neil, are never less than
educational - especially whe
I know everyone has a different budget, but the model to scale your
"real" tank on will probably be one of the cheapest things you will
purchase! (Besides glue and advice...)
On Dec 30, 2008, at 12:01 PM, Explosive Racing wrote:
>
> Thanks guys for the input.
> Sadly, I don't think I have th
OI !
I'll have you know that some of my schemes make some sence, although I
will hand it to you that a lot of them are odd.
At least I'm not the only one (Glares at Pete and Steve)
James: ""I have an idea" Chris: "Not Again..."" Murdey
On 30/12/2008 20:53, Chris Malton wrote:
> OK, They ARE
OK, They ARE usually zany, but come on, you love it really!
And next time I'll probably have to listen to somebody's zany ideas on
the way up to Manchester.. And speaking of way up to Manchester, I
have no idea how I'll get there yet, other than somehow I'll manage it!
Chris
On 30/12/20
4 ( x2) = the number of hours Neil has to listen to Petes zany
plans, ideas and inventions in the truck on the way down to Essex :-(
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You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group.
To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@g
Sounds a bit like one of our UK couriers with "next day" delivery.
Their tracking website says something along these lines: "Tracking
information may take up to 24 hours to be processed". Frequently, the
tracing system doesn't show anything until it's been delivered. Sounds
a bit like USPS.
40 minutes = The amount of time Frank and Will argue after each battle. Even
if they're on the same team !
-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Frank Pittelli
Sent: Tuesday, December 30, 2008 2:25 PM
To: rctankcombat@g
Joe Sommer wrote:
> I recommend the Rule of Fours
>4 inch DIA drive sprockets
>400 rpm no load speed at each drive sprocket
>400 in.lbf stall torque at each drive sprocket
>4 mph with sufficient torque for full-skid steer
Based on extensive research and video analysis the secretiv
Chris Malton wrote:
> Incidentally, I see USPS tells me my C6C hasn't YET been shipped, or is
> that their systems being slow to update? I'm expecting it to take a few
> weeks, given past experience with USPS to the UK, but that may have been
> a different service.
Although our empire is vast
On Dec 30, 12:58 am, Modena wrote:
> how can I calculate (or does someone know from experience) if this
> thing will actually pull a 100lb behemoth up a 45 degree hill (on low
> speed of course) :-)
Hint to new tankers -
Use "SEARCH" on this site and the RC Tank Combat archive
www.rctankcombat
Frank,
You input most appreciated. However, for the UK armoury, the results
are seeming quite good! T027, and T055, both of Funky Tank Foundry
origin have proved themselves very reliable as far as I am concerned.
For a newbie, and first tank, I think KCMs is justifiable. If they turn
Chris Malton wrote:
> Finally I've got my hands on a pair of cheap motors. £27 on eBay for
> the pair, out of an electric kids ride-on jeep.
The motors you just purchased, unofficially called "KCMs" (Kiddie Car
Motors) in the hobby, were used in 3 of the 5 tanks to participate in
the First Ty
Cheers Paul,
From that it looks a pretty much like an old style #3. That would
imply a 700 series motor. Whatever motor it is, I think I've already
got a spare by accident!
Once I can get a set of tracks up and running, we'll see how they perform.
Chris
On 30/12/2008 17:40, Paul Hilton w
Chris,
You may find this helpful:
http://www.modifiedpowerwheels.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2206
Lots of identification info and help with repair parts.
Paul H.
- Original Message -
From: "Chris Malton"
To: "RC Tank Combat"
Sent: Tuesday, December 30, 2008 9:19 AM
Subject: [TANKS]
I have no idea what they are in terms of specification.
I believe they are about the same as T055/T027, possibly slightly more
powerful. All I can say, at the moment is: they're NOISY!
I've got an idea for tracks, and will be trying to get that sorted out.
Mine are going to be precision eng
They look very similar to the Motor gear box in To55 and To27 . Are
they bigger ? Do they have a 550 motor driving them ?
( The Co2 bottle I fitted into To27 was 9 once .)
Neil R
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You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group.
T
Thanks guys for the input.
Sadly, I don't think I have the spare money to buy some models or
diagrams.
But I was looking around and found this site: (http://
www.alanhamby.com/technical.shtml) Which has some measurements. I
think I might be able to make the general shape with those
measurements,
Even better, if you can manipulate 3DS files, try these:
http://www.deespona.com/3denciclopedia/categoria_vehicles.html
category military vehicles.
http://www.deespona.com/3denciclopedia/models/ft17-ber.html
You can view them in the links above.
They'll make things more complicated for you, howeve
Thanks for the kind words, Tom and Frank.
Frank, I like your idea about the angled grooves. They would look great.
Unfortunately, the through bolts ARE too close to the surface of the
cylinder for that.
If I end up doing this project again for the next tank, I'll do some things
a little differen
Hello and welcome.
For measurement reference you've got some good options.
First, you can buy a 1/35 or 1/48 plastic model, measure the various parts,
and scale them up.
Second, you can buy very inexpensive 2d scale drawings from George Bradford
http://www.geocities.com/firefly1002000/1-48dwgs.
Doug Conn wrote:
> Ok, ok, making two short black cylinders from one long black cylinder
> may not quite qualify me as a lathe master. It was really fun, though.
> Working with plastic is a lot easier and less intimidating than metal.
Great job, Doug. You just have one last lathe task to make
Hello Everyone.
I've been interested in building a tank this this past summer, and I
think I am going to start building as soon as I can. But, I need some
help.
I've been reading alot on the rctankcombat.com website, and I think I
am going to build a Tiger Tank I.
Now, I don't have any sort of
Not yet, I was at Sears and bought a upper and lower tool chest that
was half price, pretty much wiped out my lathe funds! I figured that
when I run into something that needs a lathe to solve, I'll get one.
Right now I'm busy rebuilding the Abrams so I don't have time to let
my mind wande
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