Thanks, Gary, agreed. Unfortunately, when dealing with spacings as close as
they are on 10M, (100 kHz splits,) I think the carrier of the tranmitter
itself, let alone sideband noise, will prove daunting to isolate using
selectivity alone. In your hypothetical example, I'd need a 10M receiver
Would anybody have an idea of where I can get a UHF PLL exciter and ICOM for a
GE MASTRII mobile radio? I have a problem with a UHF link radio(447.050Tx)
desensing a UHF Hub(446.525Rx). They are with in 525 khz. The antenna for the
HUB is at 450ft on the Southwest leg with an omni directional
Yes, I have, but it is in bad shape, can not read
most of it.
Jim
--- Gerald Pelnar [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Jim,
Have you had the cover off of it? I think I had one
of those. There was
basic jumper programming for touch tones and
connection info on the inside
of the top cover.
73,
Mike,
This is one of the few times I'd advise a fellow repeater enthusiast to try
Radio Shack. They used to sell a UHF female / RCA male adapter which had an
extra-long center pin. The outside barrel of the RCA male was made unusually
thick, so the outside diamater would match the Motorola
I wanted to go UHF from the start, but until 2 days ago I was unable to
locate info on backyard UHF pairs. info which I now have. the packet rigs
are on 144.39 and 145.05, so not quite exactly 600kc separation.. I use the
TNC-X and it does not have a hold-off input to sync with other devices
Shanon KA8SPW wrote:
So moral of the story, you run the risk of liability. So just don't do
it. I know we all want the shortest run but those are the rules. Run
it outside the room to another area or you may pay. Heck, it might be
you in the elevator leaving when you test the repeater
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Any suggestions on what to use for a jumper between the
Heliax and the antenna for the last few feet to provide
flexability and make it easier to get the cable into the
antenna mount?
Either 1/4 or 1/2 superflex-FSJ1-50 or FSJ4-50.
(Watch out for the -50. That
Nate Duehr wrote:
On Oct 31, 2007, at 10:29 PM, Eric Lemmon wrote:
to go. If I remember correctly, the issue was resolved by erecting a
fireproof (cinder block) wall to separate the radio equipment from the
elevator machine room, in essence creating a new room with a separate
entrance for
n9wys wrote:
Thanks Bob, Nate, Alan and all... I'm all set now!!
Mark - N9WYS
I'm not sure I understand the need. You do know that 10% reflected is
very close to 2:1? From there, you can estimate.
I've never had one of those charts, and never needed one. And none of
the other techs I've
_
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Paul Plack
Sent: Thursday, November 01, 2007 5:47 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder]Calculating required T/R isolation
Thanks, Gary, agreed. Unfortunately, when
John,
If all you want is a portable repeater you could purchase the Kenwood TKR
series repeater mounted into a pelican case from the factory. If you would
like on designed to your spec contact me off the list and I will give you
the preferred HAM discount on the unit.
Sincerely,
Mike
I KNEW IT WOULD COME TO THIS...THE IMPLANTABLE
HANDEE TALKEE.
YOU CAN NEVER GET AWAY FROM 2 METEER
FMFRIGHTENING
MDM
--- Jim [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
http://www.physorg.com/news113058512.html
--
Jim Barbour
WD8CHL
Ted Bleiman K9MDM
MDM Radio
John, for your application I would suggest buying a GE Mastr II mobile UHF
radio and modifying it for repeater use. It is very simple to configure, and
all the info you will need is on the repeater-builder site. I have several of
these units in service and have been very pleased with the
http://www.physorg.com/news113058512.html
--
Jim Barbour
WD8CHL
I would hardily call adding a serviceable receptacle to a radio butchering
the radio. I have added such to radios costing thousands of dollars. Just my
2 cents.
Mick, KB4UPI
On 11/1/07, Johnny [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
If it will help any, I bought one at Radio Shack a few years ago.
Johnny
Hi, Jim.
I was thinking that was about right - but my electronics knowledge comes
*only* from the hobby and through self-education. I'm not a tech by trade -
actually far from it grin so sometimes things, simple as they may be for
some, are forgotten or have become blurred by the dreaded CRS
And the Mitrek is just about the easiest radio to convert... snip two diodes,
jumper your channel elements hot full-time, disable the T/R relay add a 2nd
antenna connector, controller of your choice, and duplexer. And already in a
nice, RF-tight enclosure, to boot!
I picked up a 55-watter
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, George Henry [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
And the Mitrek is just about the easiest radio to convert... snip
two diodes, jumper your channel elements hot full-time, disable the
T/R relay add a 2nd antenna connector, controller of your choice,
and duplexer.
John,
A few years back, I bought two Motorola 30-watt Mitrek mobiles with channel
elements for $62. They're built like tanks compared to Hamtronics boards, way
less money, and close to the size you say you need.
I had a UHF machine based on a GE Mastr II mobile, which I converted for full
how about switching from UHF to VHF or 800/900
change what band you are in. I had the same problem on a 464.9 repeater and
was using 451.XXX for a link even with filters it still did not help and that
is over 10 meg from one to the other. repeater was 100 watts+ and the 451. was
2 watts.
--- Jim [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Shanon KA8SPW wrote:
So moral of the story, you run the risk of
liability. So just don't do
it. I know we all want the shortest run but those
are the rules. Run
it outside the room to another area or you may
pay. Heck, it might be
you in the
-Original Message-
From: wb6ymh [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Nov 2, 2007 10:28 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: UHF Radio recommendations ??
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, George Henry [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
And the Mitrek is just about
Thanks for all the input - I just picked up a Kenwood TKR-820, so I'm down
to getting the VHF packet rigs and I'll have everything I need :-)
_
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Barrett
Sent: Friday, November 02, 2007 10:50 AM
To:
I've asked this question before, but will ask it again just to see if
there are any new twists that I'm unaware of:
Our UHF repeater is currently equipped with a 50 watt PA. We have an
opportunity to install a 100 watt PA at moderate cost. Our site is
excellent and we are already using good
Is it worth one S-unit to you? That is the real question.
Joe M.
Tony L. wrote:
I've asked this question before, but will ask it again just to see if
there are any new twists that I'm unaware of:
Our UHF repeater is currently equipped with a 50 watt PA. We have an
opportunity to install
I would halve the power, tell the users that you have doubled the power
and watch the glowing reports of greatly improved performance roll in. :-)
That was the results I got 15 years ago when I tried the experiment.
Burt VE2BMQ
Tony L. wrote:
I've asked this question before, but will ask it
At 01:33 PM 11/2/2007, you wrote:
Is it worth one S-unit to you? That is the real question.
Actually, it is 1/2 an S unit (6 dB = 1 s unit, if you believe
that sort of thing!)
My experience with an additional 3 dB on the transmit side on UHF is
that you *might* fill in a few holes
That's evil!
(I like it!)
Mike
WM4B
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Burt Lang
Sent: Friday, November 02, 2007 4:38 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Doubling Power Output On UHF Repeater
I would
I was rounding it off. ;-
Joe M.
Ken Arck wrote:
At 01:33 PM 11/2/2007, you wrote:
Is it worth one S-unit to you? That is the real question.
Actually, it is 1/2 an S unit (6 dB = 1 s unit, if you believe
that sort of thing!)
My experience with an additional 3 dB on the transmit
John Barrett wrote:
Thanks for all the input - I just picked up a Kenwood TKR-820, so I'm down
to getting the VHF packet rigs and I'll have everything I need :-)
O-good choice!
--
Jim Barbour
WD8CHL
I like the FTL-7011 and FTL-2011 my self.
On 11/2/07, Jim [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
John Barrett wrote:
Thanks for all the input - I just picked up a Kenwood TKR-820, so I'm down
to getting the VHF packet rigs and I'll have everything I need :-)
O-good choice!
--
Jim Barbour
WD8CHL
This was asked a while back, and the results were made into a web page...
http://www.repeater-builder.com/antenna/3db.html
What would be interesting is to add a few sound files to the above article
showing what a jump from, oh, maybe 6 to 9db quieting, 9 to 12db, and
12 to 15db actually sounds
I hope so - spent a little more than I wanted to on it
Anyone know who might be able to program it in the Dallas/Fort Worth area ??
_
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim
Sent: Friday, November 02, 2007 5:02 PM
To:
Pretty close to the mark , maybe add a gain antenna and enjoy the results .
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Fri, 2 Nov 2007 16:37:56 -0400
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Doubling Power Output On UHF Repeater
I would halve
On Nov 2, 2007, at 2:30 PM, Tony L. wrote:
Will the difference between 50 100 watts be worth a moderate
expenditure?
Nope. Not likely.
What would you do?
Buy a better antenna with the money or spend it on any upgrade that
would prove to require at least one less trip to the repeater
For Sale - UHF VHF Duplexers
I need the room, and all these duplexers were working and taken out of
service and stored inside. I have more specs, however these are fairly
popular duplexers (with exception of the one not known manufacturer VHF
unit).
DB Products DB-4072 Base Station UHF
Can't help you there, but when you do program it make
sure that you add any feature you may want, even if you
don't use it immediately (like switchable PL encode - which
BTW didn't work with the early firmware).
And if I remember correctly
a) that unit is 100% duty cycle at 5w but only 50%
Chris,
Thanks to all the help here and at AR902Mhz, I have the manual now in PDF
for my meter.
Mark - N9WYS
_
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
You need the complete Bird manual to learn how to use it right. It details
the cable lengths
Although the numbers will support what you and others say... there is
a much larger psychological difference with some increases in power
level. A very strong repeater transmit signal back to any receiver
(radio) often counts for much more than what you might see on an S-Meter
... when at
Right on the money...
One of few rules of a free lunch. A easy free lunch in
regards to repeater operation is the best/max antenna you
can put into operation.
The ratio of a great antenna for money spent is better than
placing odds on the pass line at a crap table better than
1.5 to 1
At 11/2/2007 10:11, you wrote:
mailto:mung%40highwayusa.com[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I have 65w out of the duplexer on 2m. A friend has a
rg214 jumper for me so I think I will use it.
For the jumper to the antenna, it MUST be cable that can hold up to
outdoor environments. Most RG-type coaxes
3 dB is definitely noticeable on my RXs.
Bob NO6B
At 11/2/2007 13:33, you wrote:
Is it worth one S-unit to you? That is the real question.
Joe M.
Tony L. wrote:
I've asked this question before, but will ask it again just to see if
there are any new twists that I'm unaware of:
Our
On Nov 2, 2007, at 10:53 PM, WD7F - John in Tucson wrote:
And why not? That's six S-units.
Try 1/2 of an S-Unit.
--
Nate Duehr, WY0X
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Only if you're using a rig with a skewed S-meter (and today many are
made that way). There are standards for proper S-meter calibration.
Joe M.
WD7F - John in Tucson wrote:
And why not? That's six S-units.
de WD7F
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To:
On Nov 2, 2007, at 11:30 PM, MCH wrote:
Only if you're using a rig with a skewed S-meter (and today many are
made that way). There are standards for proper S-meter calibration.
There's even more than one standard!
Standards, you gotta love 'em. Everyone should have one. ;-)
--
Nate Duehr
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