Was this contest formerly the Dr. Pepper Classic? Years ago I attended
this a few times and have fond memories of the experience. Other members of
our club at the time (ISS, Riverside) made the trek up to Fresno and had fun
all weekend.
Mike Reed
Southern Oregon Soaring Society
Medford Oregon
John, part of the reason you may be experiencing this is that the "lucky
ones" are the one you are meant to fly. I like the Falcon and have one now
but all of them in the past have been exactly the sameI can't explain
that. I know people who fly the latest and greatest models and seem to fall
Manfred has done his airshow act here in Medford, Oregon several times. I
talked with him for about half an hour and determined he is certifiable.
Usually the end of his beautiful aerobatic routine is topped off with an
inverted ribbon cut about 25 feet off the ground and then he pulls the nose
up
I have a new one and it measures 40.5" from the case..
- Original Message -
From: "David Zucker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To:
Sent: Tuesday, January 25, 2005 7:35 PM
Subject: [RCSE] 555 antenna length
> I need to add a new antenna to my Hitec 555. Broke the old one ages ago
> so I need
Try to look up Don Westegren. He built a four-stroke powered one in the
eighties. It flew very well and appeared in many magazines. Someone with
his experience could answer allot of questions.
Sounds like an interesting project..
I have a Wattage Super Cobalt 400 and a 50 amp ESC, If you can use i
I have an un-used RCD3200 8 channel receiver for sale. It is made to be used
with Futaba transmitters. The factory part number is FM/HFD-08RD This was a
$50.00 receiver and I'm selling it for $40.00 including shipping. It is
similar to the one at this link.
http://shopatron.com/product/product_id=R
Mark, you can use any frequency between and including those numbers.
- Original Message -
From: "Mark Wales" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To:
Sent: Saturday, December 25, 2004 9:27 PM
Subject: [RCSE] Jr Receiver ?
>
> I was looking through a padded case where I keep all my RC electronics an
Tom, I scratch build one project a year but sometimes the project turns
into a three year afair. I like scratch building because I don't care for
the ARFs that are offered to the soaring community. Sometimes I get a
large project done in a couple months but others (like my XC project) has
stret
I make my own horns from carbon laminate. Use slow CA glue to laminate as
many layers that you need.
Glass laminate will take out your jigsaw blade in one minute. Carbon
laminate will not kill your saw that fast.
A laminated carbon horn will also outlast your sailplane. .
RCSE-List faciliti
I have seen recent mumblings about the HT-12,13,and 14 stab airfoils. In one
article, someone stated that the HT-14 could be used on "larger" sailplanes.
I would like to know if this means "larger" handlaunch or 100" sailplanes?
Would this airfoil work in the RE of a
It, funny how some people are so eager to reply to a post that they miss the
entire point of the question
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All you have to do is consult the expert in your own club. Starting from
left to right, JR is up,down,down,up,up.
Futaba is down,up,up,down,down.
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You answered your own question. In the future, never take Kevlar to the
edge
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It had to be staged... It looks like a composite photo. Also, in order for
that plane to fly in that attitude in the crow mode it would have to be
flying at 40 MPH. If the plane was coming in nose high, i would believe
it
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Jeff, do it the simple way.. When you wax the outside of your Mylars, use
carnauba car wax and apply it generously. Let it hase but do not buff it
off. Any resin that creeps onto the mylars will come right off. Wax and buff
three times on the inside though. Clean the Mylars off with lacquer thinne
Robert, The Item you mentioned from Aircraft spruce is the right stuff. The
part number is 09-01099A. Fibre-Glast Also has a good quality product under
the same name with a part number of 458-A Check out thier website at
http://www.fibreglast.com/fiberglass_composites_catalog.htm
- Original
Mikey, If the sun shines in your part of the world, lay the mylar in the
driveway or car hood. Be sure to lay it on some paper to prevent scratching
or better yet, some black plastic tarp would work well. After I bag a wing,
the mylars are usually flat and stay that way because I hang them on the
Bob, I apply PVA mold release,I believe that's what you have, (poly-vinyl-
alcohol ) with an air brush. Slightly warm the plug with a hair drier or
heat gun. Just fog the PVA on and let dry. Three fogged -on coats works fine
for me.
- Original Message -
From: Bob Germano <[EMAIL PROTECT
Mike, I have been making fiberglass parts for about 15 years and still the
best way is to paint after the part is made. Tinting the epoxy gives a
semi-opaque finish and sometimes weakens the epoxy. If painting the mold
prior to lay-up, the mold needs to be perfect. Any imperfection on the mold
lin
- Original Message -
From: Mike Reed <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, December 19, 1999 6:05 AM
Subject: Re: [RCSE] Bagging Help
> Garth, I have a few answers for you. First of all, use carnauba wax on
your
> mylars. I use Eagle One paste wax
Marc. I use an electric blanket when bagging wings in the cold northwest.
After the final suck-down, Place the lower "beds" on the blanket. Position
the bagged cores on top of beds and carefully fold the E-blanket over the
top of the wing. I have never had a warped wing by using this method. I
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