Brian Chan wrote:
The only way the picture is real is he just tossed the plane up
inverted and took the shot.
I agree, or your looking at a new Polygrip user!
--
Rich Border
http://www.netlabs.net/hp/soarrich
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max velocity wrote:
a method for filling pinholes that works for
them. Fast and light!
Try spraying primer on, then while still wet push the paint into the pin holes with
your finger tip. Wipe off the rest before it
dries.
I got that tip from Terry Luckenback, the best builder I ever met.
Bill Harris wrote:
What criteria should be used to determine the maximum amount of spoileron up travel?
I can see that a large throw will decrease the effectiveness of the ailerons, but
want to get the most "braking" from them.
I used spoilerons on my 4.2 meter ASK-21, full up was about
I had a similar problem earlier this year. I used 15 minute spackle in the crease,
then sanded smooth, followed by 2 layers .75oz
glass CA'ed on over the spackling. It took about 3 minutes of work over 30 minutes.
Rodger Hamer wrote:
glass skin wings Ding in LE,..there was
some bending
"Moved by the wind." wrote:
You can write Schweizer, at the Schweizer factory, he goes in a few days a week just
for that kind of thing.
You might also try the museum at Harris Hill, I got some 3 views of a 1-26 from them.
Rich B
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CARL WALTHER wrote:
Hi All,
I was just wondering, how high can I fly my glider before I lose radio
control??? Some say about 1 mile?
Out of sight.
How does a 100ft. wingspan glider look from a mile up in the sky? Or how
can I estimate the altitude?
If you really meant 100"
Scobie Puchtler or Sarah Felstiner wrote:
I could beat any $3000+ perfecto-glider using my 34" foam and tape Red Herring IF
the contest were restricted to my local
hill/field on a light scattered thermal day.
What ever happen to the guy that was going to bet JOE $1000 he could beat him in
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
And by the way the skin graft to my finger
worked perfect. Popular opinion in this case tells me to keep it a little
further away from the Radial Arm Saw.
As much as you get around I'm wondering if Raymond Wong would pick you out in a line
up. Radial Arm Saw,
Scobie Puchtler or Sarah Felstiner wrote:
There has got to be more to it than just ground or surface effect. Swallows
use significant anhedral for ANY non flapping glide... There
is fairly significant sweep to the wings in this mode.
It maybe to neutralize the dihedral effect of the
Dave wrote:
.so that the trim would remain the same if flown by a single
pilot in the forward seat. The rear seat is on, or almost on, the CG.
That's right, but the reason for the sweep is to get the wing spar, or carry through
structure from going through the rear seat
pilot. A J-3
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hi All, I'm looking for information for a new wing for my Sagitta 900 to fly
in RES contests. What I need is a poly planform that I could use on a 10"
cord, 110" wingspan wing.
No guru but my $.02 Don't go much longer than this with a Sagitta 900 body. IMHO
Mike Reed wrote:
Fibre-Glast Also has a good quality product under
the same name with a part number of 458-A Check out thier website at
http://www.fibreglast.com/fiberglass_composites_catalog.htm
They only sell it by the gallon though. Aerospace Composite Products sells by the
quart.
Rich
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
When I get the auction running, is it
okay to post a link to it here or is that kind of commercialism frowned upon?
I think once is ok, but don't give us an hourly report on the bidding. :^)
--
Rich B
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Jeff Jones wrote:
Does any one know what the throws should be on this ship ?
If the rudder at the back moves 1" each side you should be ok. The elevator about 1/2"
measured at the back should be a good
starting point.
and where the CG may be at ?
This is a tough one, they way I remember it
Tord wrote:
Jim,
The local hobby shop is seriously considering throwing
out all aircraft kits and use that area, too, for R/C cars!
Of the three shops in driving distance of me, two dropped planes all together, now
just RC Cars. The third has helicopters with a
few power planes
Michael Imsic wrote:
Could someone please tell me, what advantage is it to have dihedral in the centre of
the wing in addition to the outer panels on a
poly HLG?
IMHO the dihedral imparts a feeling of better tracking to the plane. A plane without
dihedral will feel much more tippy, which
Bill I apologize. When I read the original post what you said made sense and you
weren't confused about the location of Seattle.
Maybe I should read my e-mails from first in rather than from the bottom of the list
up.
Rich B
"Moved by the wind." wrote:
Bill Swingle wrote:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Can anyone tell me how to set the tension on a hot wire bow? What should I look for
as signs of too little
The wire bows out when you cut.
or too much tension?
Wire breaks.
It's pretty much trial and error.
Too slow= ruff surface that looks melted.
Too fast=
Michael Neverdosky wrote:
How about shorter winch lines?
a 100 meter line.
Does a 100 yard line make thousands of readily available sites leap to mine? Gee,
they even have the landing task set up already,
between the poles, under the bar to the spot.
Rich B
RCSE-List facilities
Jim Ealy wrote:
Lead shot and vapors
You think lead is bad, I remember a guy you used to fly with that said used depleted
uranium.
Rich B
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"unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Jill and Rick Brown wrote:
If you overlay the two foils in Compufoil the MH32 is very nearly a copy
of the 7037. Very slight difference.
Yea, they're both roundish in front and pointy at the back.
The SD7037 is thicker, has a cusp on the bottom, and seams to carry the upper surface
higher
-2.53* Ideal angle of attack +1.16*
Robert Steinhaus wrote:
I would be grateful to find out if anyone knows the zero lift angle for the
S3010 airfoil. I would particularly be interested in experimental actual
wind tunnel values above computed estimates (Compufoil, etc.). I hope to use
S3010
Larry Taylor wrote:
I have the Lead. I need to know how to make Buckshot. I have been to several gun
show looking and asking. No Help. I have some
Buckshot that some one else made and it works for me. There is something out there.
I want to make my own. I just can't find it.
I've never
Mike Stump wrote:
actually I was referring to a post by another Rich B... Burnoski..
I'm not egocentric.
I'm not egocentric.
I'm not egocentric.
I'm not egocentric.
I'm not egocentric.
I'm not egocentric.
I'm not egocentric.
I'm not egocentric.
I'm not egocentric.
Really, I'm not egocentric.
Michael Imsic wrote:
Mikey, try laying the cloth at 45 deg. as it tends to follow the contours
much better.
or cloth with crowfoot weave. It is made to drape better.
I'm not egocentric.
Rich B
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"unsubscribe"
I'm going to start building my Zagi EPP in a
couple of days. I got it with out a motor, but
now I think I want to power it. I bought a P-40
kit from Sal, (great service BTW), with a Speed
400 BEC, I am thinking of using that motor in
the Zagi. The pictures I see of Zagi/Razors are
pushers,
Paul Klissner wrote:
Maybe there is wave lift? I live in San Mateo, CA about 5 miles
or so from the Santa Cruz mountains to the west overlooking
the Pacific, towering far above my local hill in the distance.
It's going to get crowded where you fly.
It's probity caused by a sea breeze off
Aerofoam wrote:
None of the spray adhesives hold up to heat, use the liquid contact
cement and squeegie it on with a scrap of epp.
I just got a Zagi EPP and it calls for 3m77 so I got it, but has anyone used the
waterbed contact adhesives instead, if so how did
it work?
Snowed in in NJ.
"Moved by the wind." wrote:
Aerofoam wrote:
None of the spray adhesives hold up to heat, use the liquid contact
cement and squeegie it on with a scrap of epp.
I just got a Zagi EPP and it calls for 3m77 so I got it, but has anyone used the
waterbased contact adhesiv
Marc Gellart wrote:
For
all you Nostalgia guys out there, today I picked up a Javelin at a swap
meet. Really cool rolled ply fuse with a beautiful epoxy paint finish,
no seam visible. The kit was produced by Paul Parszik in Palos Verdes,
CA. Vee dihedral like a Windfree and an all flying
John Roe wrote:
I have heard from God on this topic, in a discussion about very, very
low Reynolds numbers, specifically micro-hand launch.
Let's add a name to the list:
Joan of Arc
John Brown
David Kereish
Jim Jones
Son of Sam
John Roe
Rich
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Jerry Chase wrote:
I need a new 1/4" wing rod for my Dynaflite Bird of Time. Anyone know if
1/4" music wire has similar properties to the wing rod supplied with the
kit?
Like Mark says drill rod is better, BUT I use music wire for wing rods on my Sailaire
and they work, they may
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I currently have a setup using 4-40 nylon wing bolts for my HLG...
Anybody know where I can get some?
Radio Shack had some nylon bolts last time I was there, BUT try supporting some of the
guys that are on the list and have the
stuff. You got to support the
Scobie
Back when Michael Selig was doing wind tunnel test at Princeton he told me he had run
test on this very thing. As I remember it
smooth was best, but you might want to ask him.
I did my own test by spraying hair spray on one wing and leaving the other smooth, I
couldn't find any
Breck Baldwin wrote:
I have long had a desire to build a flying wing that flies with one
surface swept forward and the other
back--
Breck
Take two Prozacks and call me in the morning:^)
Rich Border
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"unsubscribe"
ScrollSander wrote:
Gentlemen:
scale plane,
Any recommendations?
Dah, look at the real plane for the wheel location.
The tow hook:
draw a line from the balance point on the wing 30* down to the bottom of the plane.
This worked ok on my 1/4 scale ASK-21.
--
Rich Border
Marguerite Prunyi
Ron wrote:
How bout really long wide spoilers on a T-tail design? I'm thinking
18" x 2" w/a servo on each side to ensure 90 degree deflection. Add a
long tail moment with a full-flying stab above the downwash then slave
it to spoiler to maintain attitude. Hello spot landings:)
I had a
Bill Johns wrote:
At 11:14 AM 12/23/1999 -0800, Aerofoam wrote:
The Days are getting longer! The sun, warmth, bugs, are all coming back.
Where?
Everywhere. If the days aren't getting any longer where you live, contact
NASA or your local equivalent.
Some Aussies might disagree with
Harley Michaelis wrote:
Sig has discontinued their 2" x 4" x 1/16" sheet nylon piece once sold as
item SH241. Does any one know of another source for this material?
1/16" X 12" X 12" #57504961$ 5.95
X 24"57504962 11.44
X24" X24" 57504963
"Stephen A. Witt" wrote:
My 4 channel radio is Mode II and should have
the rudder on the left stick and elevators on the right stick. Is this the
way I should install the servos? Or should I install the servos so that
the right stick has elevators and rudder? Does this question make sense?
I used to fly with Bill, does he still fly, or is
he still on this list?
--
Rich Border
Marguerite Prunyi
http://www.netlabs.net/hp/soarrich
Those who pound their swords into plows will plow
for those who did not.
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