Timing problem.

Ok, this is actually on a friends Midget - same 1500cc engine as my Spitfire. We have set the timing before ( last year) when tuning and all was well then. He has had to do a rebuild and for some reason the car now needs to be set about 40 degrees advance at idle. range is 40 - 80 degrees advan

Re: Interesting test results

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Re: ignition problem

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Re: Spitfire? Lucas Distributor identification -

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Re: Colortune video

Cool, very nice. If you could mount the camera on a tripod and then do the slow and fast accelerations with the video of the colour changes it would be perfect and great for those that can't get it to work. What did you use to make the video? The picture was really clear and the sound was pretty

Re: Heat shields, manuals, starters & luggage rack slats

I have spliced down MGB insulator blocks between the manifold and the carbs. Is is a UK HS4 set up on my US Spit . Also has a UK heat shield installed with a license plate extension to keep the heat from the header away. The HS4 blocks of the MGB are a perfect fit (when thinned down). Not sure

Re: Gunson Colortune?

Nothing special needed for 1500 engine or most other LBCs. I did se it listed at Harbour Freight of all places. Not sure of price. NFI. Can't remember where I bought my US one, but I did a search on the internet. Alan On Mon, 04 Apr 2005 19:56 , Spitfire 1500 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sent: >Tried o

Re: Failing emissions

Thanks for the ideas folks. I know I could reduce the emissions with other fuels. But she should not be in this region in normal running. Anyway I went to check valve clearances and compression. Found that couple of low clearance values ( yes I did do this cold) and that the push rod was sticky

Re: Failing emissions

Doug this is the kind of thing I am looking for. Of course it's all original so no way has it been incorrect assembly. and the car has passed emissions before without major problems. Alan [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: >I would expect a compression test to reveal any valve or ring problems. > >I gue

Re: Failing emissions

The electrics have been checked. Timing is correct, no misfires etc. new plug, fresh engine oil. even changed twin SU back to single Stromberg and it's slightly worse. Does not have catalytic converter and air pump is working OK. No vacuum leaks - checked for that. carbon canister was even rebu

Failing emissions

Anyone ever experience a problem with sticking values or bad adjustment failing emissions at idle with high hydrocarbons. And ways to check to specifically see if this is the cause. It's not the ignition, carb, leaks etc. etc. Been through all that and swapped over parts etc. Alan ( '76 Spitfir

Re: Suggestions for front spring compression

I used my shop press. I had the same problem with the space between the coils. Alan Paul Grafelman wrote: List, I'm trying to install my new firmer front springs onto Spax adjustable shocks. The local autoparts store has a compressor that they loan out, but the 'fingers' don't fit between the c

ABFM Portland

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Re: wiring diagram 75 solenoid

Try: http://www.triumphspitfire.com/images/wiring/75diagram.jpg Alan richard stieg wrote: anyone have a detail diagram (photo?) of a starter solenoid wiring diagram? the DPO used any color wire he had laying around to bodge the thing together. having unwrapped the wires back to the source colours

Re: Spring Compressor

Sounds exactly like the drive resistor for a Lucas OPUS system. Alan On Tue, 10 Aug 2004 09:49 , 'Kirk Crawford' <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sent: >> As for things >> to be aware of post '76 is the OPUS electronic ignition. If and when >> you start having odd ignition problems, my experience is to sta

Re: Location of Turn Signal Flasher Unit

If this is down next to the choke (where mine is on a '76) then that's it. Should be a metal bracket that the unit simply pushes into. Two leads sounds correct (light-green/slate & light-green/brown at least that's the wiring colours on the later cars according to the diagrams). Alan On Thu, 5 A

Re: Stromberg dashpot oil

That's what I used in my Stromberg and still do in my twin SU and always used in the UK cars I had. In fact that's what's listed in the manuals as the standard, although many alternatives are used - atf, 3-in-1, 5W30 etc etc. The viscosity of the oil affects the speed at which the damper moves and

Re: spitfire twins

Does happen here. When I moved one guy was in the middle of restoring his to the same color. When I was at his house all his neighours thought his car was finished and kept giving thumbs up.. Easy to spot the differences when you know, as mine has the '76 wheels and luggage rack plus minor dif

Re: Compression Ratios

Flat top pistons and emissions are the answers I believe. I have a 76 myself. On Wed, 26 May 2004 14:11 , [EMAIL PROTECTED] sent: >Does anyone know why the '76 Spitfire 1500 (fed.) had a comp. ratio of 9.00:1 and all of the others from '73-80 were 7.50:1? How'd they accomplish that and why go ba

Re: Tuning carbs question...

David, the inside of the unisyn turns to change the flow. So on the front carb open the center of the unisyn up so that the reading is not all the way to the top. Then with the linkage undone, adjust the idle of the back carb so that it's at the same place. Recheck back and forward a couple of time

Re: Defroster hose

Tim, I usually take in the old one and match it up to something with the right shape and sizes and usually cut it down. Never had them try to order one. You could look on their sites on-line to see if they list. I would measure the sizes and go see what they have. Usually I end up at the back of

Re: Spitfire Dash lights

Hmm. my buzzer on my 76 has a multi-pin connector and its just behind the glove compartment. The only "normal" unconnected ones are radio ( center) and map light ( right). The only thing I can think of on the left is a PO disconnected an instrument wire and or perhaps other dash lighting wire

Re: Coolant Expansion bottle

There are always places in the system where air gets trapped until the engine is run so that's why the level drops. Of course needs to get to temp up to open the thermostat to the radiator of course. Then the pressure has to open the radiator pressure cap. On my Ford Contour I once watched this

Re: Coolant expansion bottle

Sounds like one is for the carbon canister of the emissions system perhaps? Alan Andrew Beck wrote: It seems that I have two brackets in place for coolant expansion bottlesOne is immediately in front of the radiator on the passenger side (that is only a bracket, no bottle in it). The second

Re: Viscous coupling / Fan clutch removal

You need to drive the shaft out with a drift ( read small socket) I did mine a few years back and it took quite a force as I hammered it out ( and back on the new one. Now I have a small shop press that would do a nicer job. Alan Andrew Beck wrote: Ok, so I am in the midst of replacing the w

Re: SU float bowl overflows

I have a similar problem with my twin HS4. The fuel bubbles up through the carbs when I stop and the heat soaks in. I have obtained a couple of MGB insulating blocks that I am working right now to fit to hopefully stop the probem. Won't know until the weekend though how successful this has been. H

Re: removing trans...

Dave, a couple of 4 in bolts with the head cut off and a slot cut in the end, screwed in to replace the outer two bolts that screw into the block at the top, make for guides for sliding off and on, plus holds some of the weight. Aligns it all when you put it back. The engine usually needs a jack

Re: Thanks! and Air Rail bolt question

I went to my local nuts and bolts specialist and they had them, cost 25c or so a piece. Alan Chris King wrote: They're 7/16-20 UNF thread. You can use allen-socket set screw as plugs. See McMaster-Carr: www.mcmaster.com . -=Chris Chris King http://home.comcast.net/~

Re: tag found in Spit 1500

Walt, it sounds like it's probably from the soft top, soft top cover or tonneau. They all were made of the same material with that logo on it. If you have an original part you will see the logo on the inside of the material. Alan [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: While looking the Spitfire 1500 yester

Re: Installation of Carpet set

Which is also the same stuff sold in the home improvement stores as a kit for insulating hot water heaters and comes with a roll of duct tape as well. Often for a much lower cost than the auto parts places. Alan Craig Smith wrote: One thing I did was purchase a matting to go under the carpet.

Re: GT6 Clock

I have made my own in the past. Most of those cheap wall clocks have a simple paper picture glued on the face. Simply open the clock and replace the picture. You can pick up those clocks at the $1 stores or maybe a garage sale. Ok so you can't make the mugs etc. You can get them done at the mal

Re: urgent help needed on ignition switch

Chris, my friend did this on his 74 TR6. It has the same internal parts as my 76 Spitfire. So I know it can be done on the non-column mounted switches. Not sure about the later column mounted ones. He just swapped the back drum shaped part with the wires attached, so the keyed part was the same

Re: 1973 Ad with plane

Many thanks to those who responded and thanks for also sending direct and not bombing the list. I now have a couple to choose from. Much more than I expected. What a great list.. Alan Alan Lemen wrote: Folks, our local club is putting in an event with a local air museum. Since the event

1973 Ad with plane

Folks, our local club is putting in an event with a local air museum. Since the event is coinciding ( as near as we can) with Battle of Britain Day, does anyone have a 1973 ad than they could scan and send me a copy so I can display next to the car. TIA Alan /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing lis

spitfire running on

I have a friend with a spitfire which runs after the ignition has been turned off. It has a new switch. Only way to stop it is to remove the wire to the coil. It runs like normal not just brief run on. Any ideas before I head over and try to diagnose it. They know a lot about LBCs but this one

Re: trouble shooting "quiz" H-6 carbs

Fred, I had a couple of problems with my HS4 that I put on my Spitfire in similar manner. 1. return spring was not strong enough so I had to add additional one to pull the linkage back to idle as it would be fine for small throttle opening but not large ones. 2. Even with that when on a long t

Re: oil filter help needed

Anne, there is one that I used to get from NAPA that fits, but I since changed adapters as it was not as easy to get as the 1374. I went and bought an adapter at the local hardware store - a plumbing fixture. You could take the existing adapter into NAPA and and ask them for one that fits. I b

Re: gear box lube

Fred, 5 gal is a bit much for me although I am sure we could do a split like you. The StaLube comes in 1 gal. Never seen the Castrol on anyone's shelves even in the 5 gal size. Alan Fred Thomas wrote: > The only GL-4 that I have found reasonably easily available is the StaLube >brand available

Re: gear box lube

The only GL-4 that I have found reasonably easily available is the StaLube brand available from NAPA. I would have thought any NAPA would be able to get it for you. It does specifically say it will not affect the brass etc. Alan Fred Thomas wrote: >>Spitfire lovers: >>Is gear lube

Re: older style allison/crane XR700 wiring question

Aaron, some pics of my car in Wilsonville with the old Allison unit at http://myweb.cableone.net/ralemen/spitfire/spitfire.html Alan Aaron Johnson wrote: >Quick wiring question for anyone using the older style (black box) >crane/allison XR700. By older style I mean the one with the transitor

Re: Timing a modified '72 1300

I have a federal Spec '76. Supposed to be 2 ATDC but with twin HS4 and header etc. I run at the 10 BTDC except when trying to pass emissions. Then I set it closer to 0. You are supposed to set it as far as you can BTDC without pinging. I know when mine drifted a bit further than 10 BTDC I got

Re: HS4 Needles - Sports Exhaust & K&Ns - Video

;Anyway, I need to get my engine rebuilt before it's worth doing all of >that... > > > >James > > > >Alan Lemen said: > > >>James, I think that's what I have. That's what I got from Sports Car >>Supplies (http://www.sportscarsupplies.co.uk - N

Re: HS4 Needles - Sports Exhaust & K&Ns - Video

James, I think that's what I have. That's what I got from Sports Car Supplies (http://www.sportscarsupplies.co.uk - NFI) when I got my carbs. It seems to be the most common starting point for when you have the better flowing engine. Seem to work fine. There is probably a better set (always is)

Re: Radiator hose problem

Usually those parts places can't get a Spitfire hose but let you see what they have and help you select something that is similar ( i.e. right bends and inside diameters, but too long), albeit with a bit of cutting down. Just ask. I've never had a problem getting to the back of the store. A lot

Re: Exhaust questions: paste, wrap, needles

Joe, true about the heat and moisture. Since I live in what in classified as high desert I don't really care so much about moisture and rust anymore. But I would agree James lives in a damper climate. Mind you he is still drier than some places I would never wrap a mild steel header or anyt

Re: Exhaust questions: paste, wrap, needles

James some answers to your questions: >1) What does "assembly" paste do? Is it worth using? > I assume you mean that exhaust jointing compound in a tube. I got a tube of Unipart silicate white stuff with my system from Rimmers. It seals the joints but makes it hard to get it apart again, like wh

Re: Differential problem, cont. (was goldarndest thing)

> Jeff, With the diff on the drill press, yes the swarf fell into the > casing. We did not destroy or wear out any bits. It was pretty easy. > We started with a small bit and worked up to the right size simply to > get the position correct and see how hard it was. Theoretically when > even whe

Re: Wires

Larry, Haynes manual shows coloured wire with plastic sleeve to top terminal. There were I remember markings stamped on the sensor next to the terminals at least on mine. Also it may not matter assuming the ground terminal is not itself connected to the tank as it's simply a variable resistor i

Re: Differential problem, cont. (was goldarndest thing)

Jeff, I recently added a drain plug, It was relatively easy but then I did take the diff out the car, split it apart and had access to a drill press to do it. Not sure if I would do it under the car. There was a fair amount off swarf created and I would not want that inside my diff. Alan Jeff

Re: Nose Height for late Spits

I'll second Kevin's email. Did the same plus new shocks and poly bushings all round. Now I don't feel like I'm taking off any more. Alan Kevin Rhodes wrote: >I bought a new set of springs meant for a MKI-III. I believe, and someone >will correct me if I am wrong, that these springs were used o

Re: The goldarndest thing!

Yes, to replace the bearing you'll need an hydraulic press and a strong plate or else you'll bend the flange if the plate does not really curve around the shaft as you push the bearings on and off the shaft. Guess how I know! Alan Bob Harris wrote: >Jeff, >I hope you can disassemble a

Re: Monza header, accelerator cable, and brake fluid

George, I would have thought that your current GE and and any other DOT 5 silicon would be fine and would mix OK. To put the LMA in you would want to flush all the all DOT 5 out even though I have heard tales of mixing and it's OK. But I would not. You never know what chemical effects and als

Re: Monza header, accelerator cable, and brake fluid

Nolan, There is NO outside box on mine or any other Pertronix I have ever seen. That's one of it's major it's selling points. You must be thinking of something else like Crane. Alan Nolan Penney wrote: >The Pertronix unit does replace the points, but there is an outside >box. /// [EMAIL PRO

Re: Jaguar in the Garage!

Daniel, I know there is a Jaguar Owners of North America club and also a main site is http://www.jag-lovers.org which has mailing lists. Alan Daniel Parrott wrote: >I just received delivery of a 2001 Jaguar S-Type for my wife to use as a TSV >(Triumph Support Vehicle). It's got 25k miles, and

Re: lack of power

Never got back on this to let you folks know, but I think I tracked it down to a blocked pressure regulator that was in line with the carbs. I think it got blocked with the same gunk that stuck the float valve. I've taken it out and so far it ran for a longer trip of about 4-5 miles with a prob

Re: Full sports exhaust - extra questions...

James I have the Rimmers quiet sports with 4-2-1 header, all SS and have the wrap around the header right down to where it goes to a single pipe. I am very happy with it. It did put a chrome tailpipe extension on as it was getting the bumper a bit dirty and the extension just help the exhaust

lack of power

Some time ago you may remember by fuel pump problem. Well I have the new one now and after the dumping gas episode with a stuck float valve it was running fine. So today with the sun out and feels like spring is here, I took the car out. Started OK as it's been a couple of week since she last r

Re: Idle

Michael, I set my idle high at around 1000 rpm for that exact reason. Over the winter it stalled at junctions etc. when I have the lights on. So up the idle. Should not cause a problem except at emissions testing where I made sure it was daylight and set it back down. It is a virtual UK spec a

Re: couple nagging 1500 questions.....

Dave did you check the gauge by shorting the sender to ground. It should go full scale. You can also check the sender value by measuring the resistance across the two terminals. Full tank should be in the 10's of ohms range. 1/4 tank is 60 - 100 ohms or thereabouts. Alan /// [EMAIL PROTECTED

Re: Gaskets

Surprisingly (or not) my 1976 original electronic tach is pretty accurate. Maybe just lucky. I have compared to external tachs (including various government ones at emissions testing, a test unit I have, etc. ) and always been spot on as far as I can tell. Alan /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing

Re: Speedo cable / smiths box (% used)

Robert sounds like the service indicator. Mounted right next to the PDWA brake unit on a bracket with the same bolt I remember. Should also be a couple of wires ( maybe just one) that go ( eventually) to the service light on the dash. Supposed to light up when it's done so many miles. I've seen

Re: ZS or Weber?

Greg, OK, so I don't have a Weber, but twin SU HS4. But getting rid of the Stromberg (and the air pump if you can) gives the car a whole new lease of life. I added a header and sports exhaust at the same time, but I am sure you'll feel the difference with just a single Weber. Lots of folks have

Re: Clutch replacement

Dave when I did mine (76) the only extras I needed were the copper bushings on the lever pin. The pin goes on the outside, but on the inside where the lever pivot goes in the bellhousing, the bushings were shot. I got ones of the same inside and outside diameters at an autoparts store. They are

Re: '70 dual brake master question

Joe, When I did mine I simply took the master apart and with the piston, kept all the old parts in order noting direction of the old rubber seals and rebuilt in order with the new parts. I do have both Haynes and Bentley. I never even did the bench bleeding, but it may help, as I did have troub

Re: flashers/indicators unit

>OK, I found the bracket just left of the choke, right in line with the trip odometer >reset on the back of the dash. Looks like the flasher has been replaced with a round >(Unipart one, made in USA) so I will make a square to round bracket (from a piece of >thin scrap metal) to fit just like so

Fuel pump

My fuel pump decided to leak so I ordered a new one ( right part no etc.).. Problem is it won't fit. Side view the shape is perfect . But the new shaft that lies on the cam is a U shaped piece as opposed to an l shape. So it does not appear to fit inside the engine casting, as it is semi round

Re: Window alignment

Craig, I often have a similar problem with the same window. The glass jumps out of the plastic carrier and I have to get it back in or else it is not aligned correctly. In fact gluing it back is on the winter job list. May be a similar problem. It will still roll up and down when it has jumped

Re: Windshield Washer motor

If it did, all those toy trains, remote control cars etc. would have a problem and my electric windows (not Spitfire) would only go down and never up... Now an AC motor it makes no difference. But a DC motor - reversing the connections will reverse the direction. Alan Nolan Penney wrote:

Re: "Denatured Alcohol" and Flying Fantasies

Geoff, try methilated spirits - I believe it's another name. Used to be what it was called in the UK. Denatured alcohol I had never heard of until I came to the US and found it when I was looking for meths. Have not actually ever bought it over here as yet so can't tell if it's the same. Just a

Re: Photographic proof

Larry I put a pair or twin SU on my car. So have a number of others. Follow the setup instructions for after a rebuild in the manuals ( Haynes or Bentley) and you should not have any trouble. I don't see why they would be any different than putting on the Webers. They would not ruin the cylinde

Re: Bond Cars Reprise

There was what looked like a Herald/Vitesse convertible in one the other day! No Spitfires seen as yet. Alan Scott A. Roberts wrote: >For all those on the American side of the pond, with cable TV, TNN has been having a >24 hour/5 day Bond film marathon... I have been enjoying the cars immense

Re: Quid question

So you got the PEE part. Yeah, we kept that sterling part a secret. Pounds are Pounds Sterling - as opposed to other pounds i.e. weight or other currencies which are called pounds. It actually has that on the notes ( I checked the one and the two fivers in my wallet - don't ask! But I am sure y

Re: spitfire alternator problems

Tom easiest way is pull the alternator and get it checked. Most places do this for free. May be the diode pack that has packed up. Mine went and it was the whole thing I had to replace. What's a while? - weeks or years? or do you just mean the car with a flat battery cause of the alternator no

Re: New Spit 1500 owner electrical questions (lite)

Welcome Dave. Glad to hear a confirmed Triumph guy out there ( p.s. I have ford as well) Sorry to be short but I have to leave in a minute to local car club night - go-kart racing.. Hope this helps: No 1 sounds like the old Lucus Opus electronic ignition connector. If you have a replacem

Re: Clutch release pin question

Jeff , just needs the pin to come "out the hole". Just move it as little as possible, I would have thought. Don't forget to also support the engine with a block and jack under the sump. Should take the strain off the input shaft. You might want to put a couple of long bolts in at the top in plac

Tachometer Question

Seeing the thread on the speedo has reminded me to see if anyone out there has seen and knows the cure for a bouncing tech. Fine except around 3000 rpm when it's hot. When it's cold it's fine and low down it's fine but on a long drive on a hot day. Fine the next day when it's cold. Any ma

Re: Adjusting SU carbs

Hmm, when I did mine I did not have the problem. I went by the instructions in the Haynes for setting up after a rebuild. OK, I forgot to connect the main linkage spring ( I did not have one...) and had the linkage locked with the mechanism half way at idle so could not get full throttle B

ABFM-Portland Labor Day Weekend. (longish)

Thought I would do a quick write up. You will see why as you read it. Well we left on Thursday evening. Spitfire, MGB and TR3 heading west into the setting sun. Sounds great and it was. I had my 11 year old daughter with me. She loved it. Particularly seeing the stars out, when it got dark and

ABFM -Portland

Looks like I am taking the Spitfire now (was planning to co-drive and XK140 but that's now being trailered as the owner - a very nice chap in the local club does not think his back will hold out). So anyone on the list going? Its labor day weekend and held at PIR (info at http://www.abfm-pdx.c

Re: Rear hub bearings

OK, it only makes a noise without power. I think it is play in the diff. I tried up in the air and only when I turn the wheel by hand and do it back and forth does if make any noise. I suspect it sort of echoes down the drive shaft. Not sure exactly what is the root cause. I suspect wear some

Re: air injection rail plugs

Many thanks to those that replied. OK so I should have ripped that thing out years ago. great difference when I change up. Got 4 temporary long bolts today and short plugs will be in next week. Cost 97 cents inc. tax. today and they said about the same cost next week. Cheapest performance/fix

AIS deiverter and relief valve

So I determined the cause of my backfire. The valve is not cutting off the air as when I suck on the vacuum line it does not hold air and the valve does not move. Interestingly it is a GM part no 7030761 which I find I can get a replacement according to NAPA (OK it was the only site I could f

Re: Slave Cyllinder Question

Jim, the bleed nipple to the top so that the air rises and comes out and does not get trapped is correct. Hard to bleed from below. Solutions I have seen to this are cut a hatch in the transmission tunnel cover or add a line brake pipe with a bleed nipple at the end up through the engine bay t

Re: MOT Results & New Boots... x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"

I agree with Michael, as when I got my car (with flat tyres) I also opted for the standard size inexpensive replacements. Basically I looked for softer tyres so that they would hopefully grip better and not last longer than the car. They tried to sell me 60,000 mile tyres. It was not even at t

Re: Engine rattle

Set points to 37 thou ( as I have the 40kv coil), timing about 12 degrees before (maybe it should be more if I am still pinking ), used a unisyn to set the airflow and a colourtune to set the mixture. I was getting around 27 mpg on the local runs, hoping for nearer 30 on the trip. Most of it w

Re: Ignition resistor?

My car when I got her had an Allison and now a Pertronix and the drive resistor is only part of the original Lucas and not needed for anything else. However if it is the ballast resistor ( later cars like my '76 have an inbuilt ballast resistor in the wiring harness) then you will need that to

Re: should the speedo & tach be grounded?

OK genius, you got it spot on. I know as I just replaced the voltage stabilizer and had to rehook that one last wire. Awkward guy as it keeps trying to disappear and it hard to hold as you put the nuts back on the mounts. Probably why it was not connected. Too hard for PO and they gave up mayb

temperarture sensor resistance

Anybody have a copy of a table with the range of resistance vs temperature of min value of the sensor when engine is at normal running temp. I think mine is shot. Only goes down to ~270 ohms. Gauge goes all the way when sensor is shorted out. Alan /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send

Re: fan clutch free or snug

Tight - no wobble. Alan ptegler@cablespeed wrote: >two fans sitting here. Neither mounted on the water pump. > >One center hub is a 'slow stiff' rotation. One rotates reasonably >freely. > >For a good condition fan clutch, which is right? Tight or free? > >Paul Tegler >[EMAIL PROTECTED] >www.t

Re: tyre size

I put the 155/80 13R on my 1500 as that was the standard and also did not want to much extra effort in the steering, especially for my wife driving. They handle pretty well and also allow for some fun. But don't buy the cheapest plasticky rubber with super long life as it probably won't hold q

Parts source

One of my local (MGB owner) friends passed me this: http://www.macgregorukcarparts.com/spitfire.html May be a useful source. I thought I would pass it on. The parts he has got for his MGB looked of reasonable quality. Alan /// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list /// Send admin requests to [EMAIL

Re:

I always use engine oil. The heavier the grade the richer the mixture when you accelerate. Some folks use lighter oils. Normally I use 20W50 in my spitfire. Even when I used to own a Triumph in the UK and the car was kept outside and the temperature dropped below freezing that was what I used

Re: Hard Top Resto 2 - and Car-O-Scope

James when I had my hard top redone, I replaced the seals around the roll up windows, but the rest were OK as was the front edge one. The back window popped in and out with the seal (no rope required like the windscreen). Also the opening ones just needed the rivets drilled out and replaced wh

Re: Power steering... (lubricating the trunnions) - grease guns

OK, I just checked the Bentley reprint and in both the owner's manual and the maintenance sections for the rear hubs it says to pump until grease extrudes from the bearing. Alan [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: >Fred, when I did mine for the first time I don't even think is was even 5 times >before

Re: Differential type

Greg, if it is original like mine (also a '76 federal with the higher compression etc.) it should be the collapsible spacer. But sorry I don't know how to tell the difference off the top of my head. You don't need to take the diff apart to replace the seals. I did my pinion seal a year or so a

Re: Dash cover dated

Andre, Yep it's cool finding those dates all over the place. I found ones on such things as the ignition coil, soft top, etc. I sometimes wonder if the new parts will last as well. Alan Andre Rousseau wrote: >http://www.justdrive.ca/2002/03-30/pages/DCP00594.html > >Now that's kinda neat. > >

Re: Decals, and boot boards

Decals - I just made sure there was nothing (e.g. wax, polish, dirt etc.) when I put mine on. No problem, except I feel they stand up more when I wash or polish compared to the old ones so I take extra care when I work in those areas. Board - there should be about 8 mounting points that take

Re: Wheels

Charlie, you could have them match the colour on the spare if it's still OK. I just cleaned, rubbed the wheels down to remove the heavy rust and Hammerited mine (with the old flat tyres removed of course), including the rims where the rubber sits. As long as they all look the same is my inten

Re: Door Handles and Brake Lights x-mac-creator="4D4F5353"

James, the switch should have a spring in it. The "cylinder" is normally is pushed into the "box" by the pedal. Pushed in the lights should be off, as soon as it starts to move out they should come on. According to the wiring diagrams at http://www.triumphspitfire.com/wiring.html the two green

Re: waterpump question

Dave, the "big silver thing" is the fan clutch. Looks like someone put a later pump onto your 68. Mine for example is a 76 and has the fan blades attached to the clutch. That should turn stiffly in relation to the pump shaft. I saw the fan blades in the background. I believe your car originall

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