I have some pix of my '69, which was dark blue. I doubt that the list will
handle attachments, but if you want, let me know and I can email some to you.
Jack Kagy
*** http://www.team.net/the-local***
Your messages not reaching the list?
Check out http://www.team.net/posting
es in the
cylinder and replacing them in order. Only serious problem would be if the
inside of the cylinder is pitted. I don't think that can be fixed. Still had
problems early this season, but (knock on wood) it got better.
Jack Kagy
*** http://www.team.net/the-local***
Your me
d" driving on a twisty
road on the way to the car's winter home) I sure don't find the part listed
anywhere. Anyone else ever find a way to deal w/ this?
Jack Kagy
*** http://www.team.net/the-local***
Your messages not reaching the list?
Check out http://www.team.net/posting
I'm trying to stay pretty stock, but am
always interested in boosting performance.
Any thoughts from the Spit Guru's?
Jack
PS- still looking for a single or better yet a pair of the classic 70's
slotted mags for the spit. Similar to the attached. I'm in SoCal and would
lo
yards or places that specialize in British cars? I've gotten all
the catalogues, but want to try and find anything used that makes sense. I
plan on attending the San Diego event this Sunday to see what's out there
and talk to others. I could go on forever with questions. Enough for now.
What a coincidence...I'm in the process of doing the same thing on my
spitfire. Spent a couple of hours doing the outside seal. Started on the
inside seal and decided I had had enough for one day. I had read a procedure
that called for putting the clips on the seal first when doing the outside b
I've come to expect oncoming traffic to turn L in front of me in my Spitfire.
They nearly always do. Not so when I'm in my Ram.
Don't know whether the smaller size makes them think I'm farther down the road
than I am or whether they just figure that they'll survive better than I will
'cause they'r
think you really need to jack up the rear and crawl underneath it. The
swerve to the L on braking sounds like you are not getting the drag you expect
from the RR brake. Sounds dangerous.
JAK
/// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list
/// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
/// or try http
My wife an I replaced the top on our '78 a couple of years ago. We got it too
tight. It was before I was aware of this list and the advice it offers.
Consequently, many of the snaps on the body pulled loose. (I had had to
replace them w/ a pop rivet tool and may not have done a real good job.) S
wrong side for mine.
Jack Kagy
/// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list
/// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
/// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
/// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
/// Edit your replies! If they include th
I got motivated today to brave some freezing temps and start reassembling the
brake lines on my '78 Spitfire. I discovered that the Haynes manual doesn't
show the tube that extends between the flexible hose and the RR back plate.
The tube was there before and broke so I need to replace it. It is
Try a pharmacy
JAK
/// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list
/// Send admin requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
/// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
/// Send list postings to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
/// Edit your replies! If they include this trailer,
list, there are a number of us who
share interests in both Spitfires and flying.
Besides my Spitfire, I also have a small (23')Paceship sailboat we use on the
west end of Lake Erie. Is there also a thread of commonality there among LBC
owners?
Jack Kagy
/// [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailing list
I'm having trouble getting a new line to replace the one on the R rear wheel.
I broke it off while pressing the trunnion bushing in a few weeks ago.
Learned a lesson, remove the brake line before messing w/ the rest of it.
Didn't think I would have such a difficult time replacing it. Local CarQues
Finally got the trunnion bolt replaced on my '78 Spitfire. Fortunately, that
part of the project is portable right now so I could work on it on the living
room floor while watching the Browns.
Many thanks to everybody who posted suggestions, advice and photos. The
information helped quite a bit.
Hoping to pick someone's brain who has replaced the trunnion bushings. I'm
about to tackle that. I've got the parts and have sort of "dry fit" them on
the kitchen table. I am concerned about exactly what to do w/ the rubber
seals. The Haynes manual just says "fit them." Are they to be fit arou
A couple of days ago, on my way to work, I drove across a little bump w/ my
'78 1500. There was a 'clunk,' the rear of the body seemed to drop a little
and the car seemed to want to swerve L a couple of times. I got to the edge
of the street, called AAA and had it flatbedded back home.
As I was
Just letting you all know of a Spitfire for sale. It sits in the lot of a
small, front yard used car lot, located on State Route 53 in Ottawa County,
OH, between Fremont and Port Clinton. It's a later model, probably a 1500. I
see it on the way between home and Lake Erie and it's always weekend
Wife and I went out for a short drive in the '78 Spitfire last night to get
close enough to the edge of town to see the sunset. Takes just a couple of
minutes. As we were heading along some back roads, I noticed the temp gauge
was well onto the middle mark and heading up.
Normally the needle bar
I replaced the speedometer cable and now the tach won't work. The Haynes Book
I have talks about a grounding wire. I didn't see one when I removed the tach
to get at the speedometer and I don't find any lonely wires now that might be
the tach grounding wire. Is anyone familiar w/ this situation
I finally got around to pulling the sending unit from the fuel tank of my '78
spitfire today.
I had rebuilt the clutch slave and put in a new speedometer cable. They work
OK now, so the mileage will rise above the 26K+ I've had for the past few
years.
The fuel gauge hasn't worked since I got it.
I've got a 78 1500. On the drvr's side, the window will only crank down part
way. About an inch of glass sticks out. The mechanism seems to come to an
end solidly. I've had the panel off and stared inside for a while but
couldn't determine what was stopping it. There seems to be too much stru
22 matches
Mail list logo
