Woodstock, Ontario Canada
N4S 7V6 Telephone (519) 539 9981
Cheers,
Walt Gray
paul gamlin wrote:
I am finishing up a English profile live steam tank engine and was going to
put a light on it. looking at images Via Goggle it does not look like that
is common practice . Is that the case ?
Absolutely. English locomotives did not have headlights. They carried
various combina
Jeffrey Williams wrote:
Have any of you on-line upgraded from Netscape 7.0 to 7.1?
Did you have any problems?
Is there any improvement?
I "upgraded" two weeks ago. Bottom line is this: If you are satisfied
with 7.0, stick with it. Among the changes brought about by 7.1 are the
loss of the
Peter Trounce wrote:
> Like most folk new to digital photography, I have struggled with the
> difference from film cameras.
A good summary, Peter.
wg
paul gamlin wrote:
> I am trying to repair a RH loco . If it is and 0 rings I cannot find a
> measurement for them . offhand does anyone know what the measurement for the
> roundhouse 0 rings are?
>
> Paul Gamlin
>
>
Best idea is to order them from Roundhouse. Not expensive and delivery is ver
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> . I found
> > acceptable tubing at a motorcycle repair shop (polyvinyl something that is
> > fuel proof and clear blue, very pretty and clear enough to
> > see the fuel).
>
> Another source for this kind of tube is your local r/c aircraft store.
Fellow modellers in my
of railway logging practice is
very limited and I don't know how logs are actually fastened to these
disconnects. I somehow doubt the bunk chocks would be sufficient.
Could you explain the method of securing the logs, please?"
Cheers,
Walt Gray
spring on the tongue which
connects the bogie to the frame. This spring, really a brass tab,
prevents the tail of the loco from sagging and effectively keeps the
driving wheels in contact with the rail. I'm pleased to report that the
engine now performs very well.
Cheers,
Walt Gray
pients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Thursday, September 05, 2002 11:29 PM
> Subject: Re: Lead weights in a Ruby/Forney
>
> > Dear Walt Gray,
> >
> > I highly recommend spent uranium. Because of its very high density a
> little
> > will go a long w
My Ruby/Forney conversion is tail heavy. I'd like to put some lead
weights into the smoke box. Any comment on the effect on the lead of
the temperatures in the smoke box?
Cheers,
Walt Gray
Harry, I picked up a few .010 sheets many years ago on a trip to the UK. I've
used it for both 00 scale and now Gauge 1. It is an excellent material for
boiler cladding. It easily conforms to the shape of the boiler and will take
solder very well. Can't remember what is cost me then (28 years
My friend in Oakville ON just received his yesterday.
Walt Gray
Jonathan Bloom wrote:
> John,
>
> I just rec'd mine yesterday in Northern California.
>
> Jon
> - Original Message -
> From: "John Kowalchuk" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To:
"James S. Burns, Jr." wrote:
> Any help you could give, or reference to a passage from a book, or a
> website, would be very helpful. Thanks much.
This might help:
Trent, as I've just reread the SitG article and nothing is
mentioned there about slots.
Let me know how your head comparison turns out.
Cheers,
Walt
> Walt Gray wrote:
>
> >I made three "wicks" this
> >afternoon.
> >
>
>
Not too hand. I'll inquire at the pottery store if you like. If all else
fails, I'll mail you a hunk -- it's light enough! I'll send you a picture off
list of the burner in operation.
"Robert M. Blackson" wrote:
> Walt Gray--for those 2 1/2 x 4 1/2 x 8
t works. The key to all this is using
the right material. Mine is supplied by a local pottery supply house in
porous, cream coloured bricks 2 1/2 x 4 1/2 x 8 1/2 inches.
Cheers,
Walt Gray
Harry Wade wrote:
> At 01:19 PM 12/22/01 -0800, you wrote:
> >I have been reading, with much inter
Understood, Harry. In Southern Ontario, the potters use a cream coloured brick
which is of medium density and can be easily sawn using a hack saw. Thin slices
will actually break up if you handle them roughly.
Cheers,
Walt
Harry Wade wrote:
> At 12:31 PM 11/29/01 -0500, you wrote:
> >Have you
Have you tried people who cater to potters who use firebrick in their kilns
etc.?
Trent Dowler wrote:
> Harry,
>
>I've discovered that fire brick is becoming more difficult to find
> around my location.
>A source of firebrick that will not fade away in any foreseeable
> future is one of
Pure distilled spring water is readily available at Loblaw's, Sobey's
and most other supermarkets in Ontario. Might have more luck at those
stores (if you haven't already tried them) or take a run over the
"border" into Ontario.
Walt
Matthias Warmbold wrote:
> The only distilled water I could
l
Cheers,
Walt Gray
Me as well Art, please.
Cheers,
Walt Gray
Trent Dowler wrote:
> Art,
>
>If it's not too much trouble, I'd like a copy of it as well.
>Thanks in advance.
>
> Later,
> Trent
>
> > From: Art Walker
> > Subject: Re: Alcohol burners
> >
Excellent!
Dave Cole wrote:
> all hands:
>
> steve's bagrs loco fuel tank file is available at
>
> http://www.45mm.com/sslivesteam/files/bagrs_loco_fueltank.gif
>
I've seen them in Home Depot at less than $35 CDN. Considering the value of the
"cargo", that's not bad!
Cheers,
Walt Gray
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> In a message dated 9/13/2001 3:01:14 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
> > I can
Pete,
I, too, would appreciate a look at the servo/throttle pics off line
Walt Gray.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> In a message dated 9/9/2001 3:01:23 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
> >
> > The tender is huge, with lots of room for water and a
ch detail but I wanted to outline the situation as
clearly as possible.
Any ideas? Please!
Walt Gray,
Oakville, ON
Thanks Vance, my Ruby has a set screw already installed on the bottom of the burner
body.
The jet holder is firmly in place thanks to pressure exerted by the gas supply line.
That,
plus the teflon tape on the jet's threads, seems to be doing the job for me.
Cheers,
Walt Gray
> vrba
> the screen is in a triangle and should be cut square to expose all the
> burner slits.
>
> Walt Gray wrote:
>
> > Thanks to all who replied to my request for assistance. On the advice
> > of Kevin O'Connor who designed the Ruby burner and suggested the
> > fu
Ferdinand wrote:
> HI Walt,
> How is the plumbing tape holding up under the heat ?
> Another option I had thought of was using liquid gasket, seems
> to be more resistant to high heat.
I've only had one 27 minute bench test and so far, so good. Reluctant to
remove the jet and check the threa
fect flame. Evidently unwanted air was entering the system
via the jet's threads. Nice to have a resource like the designer on the
list!
Cheers,
Walt Gray
Oakville, ON
When operated before the mods took place, the flame was robust and
remained within the flue. All aspects of the supply chain, the control
valve on the butane tank, the line to the jet, the jet itself, and the
burner have been examined and nothing seems to be amiss.
Any suggestions?
Walt Gray
Oakville, ON
My thanks to all who replied to my query. Many useful tips for "next
time".
Cheers,
Walt Gray
Oakville, ON
Having difficulty reinstalling the Ruby boiler on the smokebox saddle.
Finding it nearly impossible to start the small screws in the threaded
holes to say nothing of putting the nuts on inside the smokebox. Any
"tricks of the trade" someone can suggest?
Cheers,
Walt Gray
Oakville, ON
illustrated catalogue.
When you order, be sure to ask them to state on the customs declaration that
the shipment is "model train parts". This will avoid customs duties (although
not GST and PST, unfortunately). They don't have an email or URL address
either.
Cheers,
Walt Gray
Oakville, ON
Thanks, Walt.
Cheers,
Walt
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> You can probably scale up some from the NMRA standards.
> Walt
Can anyone tell me where I can obtain plans for building 4' to 5'
switches/turnouts?
Thanks,
Walt Gray
Oakville, ON
Canada
subway system during
off hours when the third rail power was shut off for safety reasons. These red
engines would not normally be seen in passenger service.
Thanks for the great pictures of DH.
Walt Gray
"David M. Cole" wrote:
> steamers:
>
> more diamondhead pix now res
Have you tried sand blasting the brass, followed by a good primer and paint? It
worked for me on the body I built for my "Lady Anne".
Cheers,
Walt Gray
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I hate to bring this up but my research has proven fruitless.
>
> I seem to have problems
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