Re: Ruby Mods & Timing

> I ordered a Ruby Kit and have it together. It has a minor > problem, the pressure valve runs at about half pressure so the > train really doesn't move but a new one is on order. > > Once it's here and I get the timing adjusted I'll be all set. > > Any suggestions on adjusting the timing?

Re: Ruby Mods

Why do I overlook these great little bits of information on Vance's page? Maybe I get in too big of a rush. Who Knows. Thanks Vance! Later, Trent VR Bass wrote: > (stretching the spring in the safety valve) is > documented for the Ruby on my Ruby Gallery page. John Thomson has a > Ruby with a

Re: Ruby Mods

it would be a good idea to double check the pressure of the ruby by having a pressure gauge on engine for at least a few runs .i put washers on on both of my ruby's pop valves both same thickness one pressure read 43 lb the other read 72lb .I then switched pop valves same result obviously the s

Re: Ruby Mods

The method Trent described (stretching the spring in the safety valve) is documented for the Ruby on my Ruby Gallery page. John Thomson has a Ruby with a pressure gauge, and he has provided the exact length the spring should be to get 40psig. regards, -vance- Vance Bass Alb

Re: Ruby Mods

Hello Everyone, It's not nearly as precise or controllable, but the spring in the safety can also be removed and stretched SLIGHTLY to accomplish the same result as shimming it. The way I did the one on my Jane was to remove the spring and measure it with calipers in the relaxed state. I stre

Re: Ruby Mods

I was hoping to be able to compare superheated/non-superheated Rubys at DH, but most there were unsuperheated, and seemed to run quite nicely. I do get a great deal of condensate out of the stack, but I don't know if superheating would have much effect on that. It's only slightly less messy than m

RE: Ruby Mods

of sslivesteam Subject: Ruby Mods I thought I would throw a couple of questions out to the group . I am in the middle of converting my Ruby and at present its dismantled right down to the frames and drivers. 1- How much of an improvement does adding a superheater make ? ( is it worth adding at thi

Ruby Mods

I thought I would throw a couple of questions out to the group . I am in the middle of converting my Ruby and at present its dismantled right down to the frames and drivers. 1- How much of an improvement does adding a superheater make ? ( is it worth adding at this point ) 2- An easy mod raising

Re: (Fwd) SSSM RUBY mods at Diamondhead

Count me in! I just put the (almost) finishing touches on my conversion tonight. All I need to do is fire her up tomorrow to make sure everything is still in good working order, and I'll be ready to pack her up. I'll update the website after DH, as I've got a lot of packing yet to do. (I'm leaving

(Fwd) SSSM RUBY mods at Diamondhead

nd reply to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: SSSM RUBY mods at Diamondhead [ Double-click this line for list subscription options ] Group, It appears that at least 5 or 6 of use will have our modified RUBYs at DH next week. Should we have a planned get together to do show-n-tell and swap

Re: Ruby Mods

Hello Everyone, I realize that this is an old subject (even though it keeps reoccurring, much to my delight) but I came across something that might be of interest or help to someone. On Roundhouse Engineering's web page they have almost the exact setup for valve guides that I mentioned a whil

Re: Ruby Mods

In re Kevin's comments on rolling boiler jackets: If you use really thin sheet, you can just hold it in place with boiler bands. I used .020" or .025", and that required rolling in the slip roll. I think .005" or maybe .010" shim stock would be fine, since mine really feels much thicker than

Ruby Mods

I've found the easiest thing to do is to just lag the boiler. Solder or screw everything to the lagging, then slip that over the boiler. You don't have to endanger anything on the locomotive, and you get a lagged boiler, which improves the looks dramatically, also. The trick is rolling the lagging

Re: Ruby mods (Salty's Forney)

Lloyd, Regarding your Ruby to Forney conversion (thanks for the plug!): I received your letter and I am awaiting a shipment of link-and-pin coupler castings from Ozark Miniatures, so the cab and pilot will go out as soon as they arrive (should be three or four days). If you're going to use kn

Re: Ruby mods

In a message dated 01/10/2000 8:54:29 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: << It's on the underside, right under the footplate. There's a small brass plate that names the maker and then there's a small piece of paper pasted just below it. >> Guess all the heat and oil washed it

Re: Ruby mods

> For the truck under the tank I'm using a NorthEast Narrow Gauge truck that > looks close, with a minor modification, to the trucks used under the early > Maine forneys. I'll bring one to DH for show-n-tell. Mike, Won't make DH this year :<( Please forward the manufacture and model of the truck

Re: Ruby mods

At 5:34 PM -0800 1/10/00, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: >Looking on mine for the serial number and can't find one. Know where it is >located? It's on the underside, right under the footplate. There's a small brass plate that names the maker and then there's a small piece of paper pasted just below it.

Re: Ruby mods

In a message dated 1/10/00 12:26:22 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: << The last I heard, they had sold hundreds of them (someone on the list mentioned a s/n around 200, so at least that many). Mine is no. 087, and I received it in October I think. Obviously, they aren't

Re: Ruby mods

> By fifth run (without > anything in tow) it took five minuets to pressure then ran 14 minuets > around a 10 foot loop of track on the patio. Is this in line with the > rest of you? That's about on par with what I'm getting with my Ruby. I am working on a boiler jacket now, and I'm trying to co

Re: Ruby mods

In a message dated 00-01-10 12:26:22 EST, you write: << I hope we'll have a good parade of "Ruby all dressed up" in various ways. Mike, how's the Forney coming? >> Vance, Jon, and list, I'm afraid the forney project is not going to make an appearance at DH as it is still far from done. I wil

Re: Ruby mods

At 9:59 AM -0800 1/10/00, David M. Cole wrote: >I bet they are doing inventory in FIFO ... first in, first out ... Geez, I'm doing well ... maybe I should try that sleeping thing: that should have been FILO ... first in, last out ... --- Dave Cole Daly City, Calif. US

Re: Ruby mods

At 8:18 PM -0800 1/10/00, Jonathan E. Bloom wrote: >Lastly, the bottom is marked Accucraft Mfg. 113. Is this really a >serial number? It seems that there would be more than this floating >around by now. Anybody know more than I? I bet they are doing inventory in FIFO ... first in, first out ..

Re: Ruby mods

> reverse seems to require less steam for a given speed. Jon, if it runs faster in one direction, make sure your reverse valve is adjusted properly (there should be a page in the instructions on how to adjust it, and it's also available on the Accucraft web site under product support). > fi

Ruby mods

Attention Ruby-philes, Picked up my new loco from Bing on Friday. My first thought on firing was "is this one with a leaky gas filler fitting?" Not yet anyway. First lightoff was on blocks, and like others have commented, reverse seems to require less steam for a given speed. By fifth run (wit

Re: Ruby mods

At 10:32 PM -0800 10/30/99, VR Bass wrote: >What do you suppose would be the >right adhesive to bond the wood to the metal? CA? But I don't know what the heat threshold on it is ... --- Dave Cole Daly City, Calif. USA List Mom: sslivesteam, the list of small-scale live steamers

Re: Ruby mods

Glad to have you join the list, Paul! > ... having a rather difficult layout for them to travel on . I find that my Ruby pulls like a fiend on the level, but really requires R/C to make it up the grades without running away downhill. I'm going to have to follow you very soon on that. > I dri