Vance,
Where can one purchase the vacuum tap valve you describe?
Don
From: Vance Bass [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: sslivesteam@colegroup.com
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam sslivesteam@colegroup.com
Subject: Re: twin fire tube boilers QQQ
Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2005 23:13:10 -0700
My friend Ted
Gary
Thank you, did you also know that Regner do a steam heated gas
tank?, and I think if my memory serves correct Cheddar also do one.
These connected with a Cheddar pressure regulator(nor the usual needle
valve) usually solve most burner problems. but not the problem of (this
now seems
boilers
| Gary
|
| Thank you, did you also know that Regner do a steam heated gas
| tank?, and I think if my memory serves correct Cheddar also do one.
| These connected with a Cheddar pressure regulator(nor the usual needle
| valve) usually solve most burner problems. but not the problem
I'm sending this response for Dave Hottmann. I forwarded the original
question to him and this is his response.
Clark Lord, Las Vegas Live Steamers (Gauge One)
-
Hello Clark,
I'm active on the list but I'm not getting any mail. If you want to
reply I'm wondering if he has a jet
Mike.
Thank you for your offer. I have talked extensively with Cliff on this
one and as you said he was very helpful, but having just moved to a new
building and his new workshop not yet as he would like it he was not
able to confirm that this is a common problem. I suspect that some
people may
At 12:35 AM +0100 1/6/05, Bert Edmunda wrote:
I have been able to offer quite
a lot of help thanks to this group which is for my money the best thing
since tea bags.
if i did this for money and if i had a marketing campaign, wouldn't
that be a great endorsement quote? ;-) ...
\dmc
--
Subject: Re[4]: twin fire tube boilers
Mike.
Thank you for your offer. I have talked extensively with Cliff on this
one and as you said he was very helpful, but having just moved to a new
building and his new workshop not yet as he would like it he was not
able to confirm that this is a common
My friend Ted solved cold water bath problems for his Roundhouse engine tank
by making a small line drizzle steam into the tender to warm it up. Worked
well. Just had to keep the amount of steam down to a tiny bit to keep the
butane bath warm enough for the butane to always be warm enough on cold
My friend Ted solved cold water bath problems for his
Roundhouse engine tank by making a small line drizzle steam
into the tender to warm it up.
I did the same on my Roundhouse. It's easy on those locos because
there's a vacuum tap valve you can get, that screws into the water-level
drain
To All
Has anyone an Accucraft C-21 or a K-27 and if so have you had
problems with the left fire going out? This is the tube with the
superheater running through it. Theoretical this tube should re-ignite
due to the Stainless superheater glowing. It does not. a number of
experiments are in
At 06:02 PM 1/5/05 +0100, Bert Edmunda wrote:
Has anyone an Accucraft C-21 or a K-27 and if so have you had
problems with the left fire going out? This is the tube with the
superheater running through it. Theoretical this tube should re-ignite
due to the Stainless superheater glowing. It does
My bet is that the superheater has a leak that is putting out the fire.
Steaming Sparking over Terror Trestle in Eugene, Oregon ~ Gary
http://www.angelfire.com/or/trainguy
http://community.webshots.com/user/raltzenthor
| At 06:02 PM 1/5/05 +0100, Bert Edmunda wrote:
| Has anyone an Accucraft
Gary
Thank you for the input there is no leakage. It seems to be a problem
that has been experienced by more than a couple of people I know here
in mid Europe. I was hoping as the main market for U.S. railroad models
is obvious the USA to save carrying out all the possibilities
in that someone
Bert
I am not an owner of an Accucraft engine with dual
burners. Own a Ruby and a Fort Wilderness. Accucraft's
main distribution center is located within a few miles
of my work place plus it is a local telephone call. If
you can provide more specific information off line to
me at [EMAIL
]
Subject: Re: Boilers, Burners etc.
At 05:57 PM 10/5/03 -0400, you wrote:
On the other hand, a well designed silver soldered boiler will build up a
very high pressure (probably more than 10 times operating pressure).
In order for a theory to hold water all conditions, components
I have modified the tube in my Ruby such that it does not spit out the stack
anymore. I shortened and pinched the origional tube then filed a hole just
below stack level. This way the spray goes in the smokebox and falls down
onto the track but most of the steam still goes out the stack.
Henner suggested:-
Let us assume, for some reason the safety valve fails:
Any comments ?
The answer is make sure it fails safe. My solution is to fit the safety valve
with a test pin (normally known as the valve stem) and lift it to make sure the
ball is free whilst raising steam. I also
: Mike Chaney [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, October 06, 2003 3:54 AM
Subject: Re: Boilers, Burners etc.
Henner suggested:-
Let us assume, for some reason the safety valve fails:
Any comments ?
The answer is make sure it fails safe
At 06:25 AM 10/6/03 -0400, you wrote:
I am surprised that Ruby comes with only a safety valve and no steam gauge.
JR,
The reason is cost/price. The Ruby was intended to be a budget
locomotive and an additional safety and gauge would add at 20% to the
price. Single safeties are common, and
I am surprised that Ruby comes with only a safety valve and no steam
gauge.
Well, then you think of it in a certain way, it does have a steam gauge. The safety
valve is a
gauge, in that it tells you if your pressure is above or below a certain point. This
is just like on
your car (unless
available to the system. If I
were to apply a 1 oxy/acetylene rose tip (150,000+BTU/min) to a Ga1 boiler
boiler of course I should expect trouble, but in actual typical operation
that's not going to occur. The reason for building silver soldered boilers
the way they have been, and should continue
agree unreservedly that a explosion wasn't possible. Over
the years I've read of many instances where old style water boilers, heavy
riveted steel, which operated at 4-5psi, did explode in the fullest sense
of the word, some with loss of life, so I couldn't ever say it couldn't
happen. I keep
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: 2003/10/06 Mon PM 12:20:44 EDT
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Boilers, Burners etc.
At 05:57 PM 10/5/03 -0400, you wrote:
On the other hand, a well designed silver soldered boiler will build up a
very high pressure (probably more
of sslivesteam [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, October 06, 2003 3:04 PM
Subject: Re: Re: Boilers, Burners etc.
I've been following this thread, and I'd like to put my two cents in.
I've worked with full sized stationary steam engines, and thought I do not
have my operator's license as yet, I'm planning
in model boilers rely on it to do that. Yes additional action, like
dumping a coal fire, will probably be taken but all this happens in an
instant and not all model locos have the ability to completely dump the
fire on short notice so in model practice the fusible plug, when present,
is thought
: JR May [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, October 06, 2003 10:49 AM
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam
Subject: Re: Re: Boilers, Burners etc.
A few weeks ago at Pine Creek we had our Railroaders Weekend/Open House
and
I set up some track for Ruby to run on in front of our
That's a great point, Steve,
Thanks for bringing it up. It saves a lot of hot water and oil in the eye
(and oil and crud on the Missuss's dress!) when firing most butane locos.
However, it can't be done where a blower or exhaust nozzzle is required
such as a coal or alky fired loco.
]
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, October 06, 2003 7:50 PM
Subject: RE: Re: Boilers, Burners etc.
That's a great point, Steve,
Thanks for bringing it up. It saves a lot of hot water and oil in the eye
(and oil and crud on the Missuss's dress!) when firing most
On 6/10/03 6:49 pm, JR May [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I was not so much concerned about boiler safety as I was about Ruby spitting
hot water out the stack. We carried 2000 passengers that weekend and I'd
guess half took the shop tour with many taking the time to check out Ruby
pulling a seven
Hi,
here some of my thoughts about boilers, burners and HO Live Steamers
#1 Boilers:
Having read the thread about the Midwest boiler I would like to present
some heretic thoughts:
So far I have built three silver soldered vertical copper boilers with
nicely flanged plates and pressure tested
Meinhold
Sent: Sunday, October 05, 2003 2:58 PM
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam
Subject: Boilers, Burners etc.
Hi,
here some of my thoughts about boilers, burners and HO Live Steamers
#1 Boilers:
Having read the thread about the Midwest boiler I would like to present
some heretic thoughts:
So
about silver
brazing of boilers so far be it for me to quiz the use of stainless in his
application.
Jim
At 05:14 PM 4/30/02 -0400, you wrote:
Charlie's been designing and building
these things for a while. He laughs at our conversations about silver
brazing of boilers so far be it for me to quiz the use of stainless in his
application.
Jim
Despite its apparent advantages stainless
Tubing is measured by the ID;
Pipe is measured by the OD,
so 1-1/2 pipe will always be 1-1/2 OD but will have a smaller passage as
the schedule goes up. Schedule is the common nomenclature for ordering
pipe, i.e.: schedule 40, 80, 120. Tubing is reversed, ID remains constant
as wall thickness
At 08:18 AM 4/16/02 -0400, you wrote:
Tubing is measured by the ID; Pipe is measured by the OD,
Jim
Jim,
I think you've got it reversed.
Regards,
Harry
Jim Curry wrote:
Tubing is measured by the ID;
Pipe is measured by the OD,
Thanks for your answer, Jim. I think I've got it. (That stupid feeling has
left me). But now for the next question : what's the difference between pipe
tube ?
royce in SB
Harry Wade wrote:
At 08:18 AM 4/16/02 -0400, you wrote:
Tubing is measured by the ID; Pipe is measured by the OD,
Jim
Jim,
I think you've got it reversed.
Regards,
Harry
OH S**T ! Just when I had committed it to memory !
Fortunately, I'll forget the rule by tomorrow and have to
At 07:40 AM 4/16/02 -0700, you wrote:
OH S**T ! Just when I had committed it to memory!
So, what's the rule ?
I LOVE this list !
Why? We keep contradicting ourselves!
Go to http://www.jgbraun.com/faq.html J. G. Braun is an old line seller
of architectural metals such as handrails, bar
Thanks for the lead Harry. By their definition, it would appear that NO
conclusions can be drawn as to actual ID or OD from nominal PIPE sizes. Using
their example, 1 1/2 schedule 40 pipe has an OD of 1.90 and an ID of 1.61.
Where's the inch and a half? (rhetorical question only). I think
At 09:55 AM 4/16/02 -0700, you wrote:
By their definition, it would appear that NO conclusions can be drawn as
to actual ID or OD from nominal PIPE sizes.
royce
Royce,
This is true of steel but copper and steel pipe have two different
standards. Copper pipe is _always_ 1/8 over nominal
things being equal.
Cheers,
Peter Trounce.
- Original Message -
From: Royce Woodbury [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 10:12 AM
Subject: of boilers and things
So here's a question to pick things up a little.
I have
possible. This would be
especially true of coal fired boilers where the flues would be subject to
abrasion from brushing. The only drawback to this is that Type K and L
tube aren't usually available at local D.I.Y. stores so unless you have a
shop which will cut tube to length must mail ordered
possible. This would be
especially true of coal fired boilers where the flues would be subject to
abrasion from brushing. The only drawback to this is that Type K and L
tube aren't usually available at local D.I.Y. stores so unless you have a
shop which will cut tube to length must mail ordered
Mating Plumbing fittings!
Steve
-Original Message-
From: Royce Woodbury [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 2:02 PM
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam
Subject: Re: of boilers and things
So Harry, I can understand why a so-called 1 1/2 tubing would
At 02:02 PM 4/15/02 -0700, you wrote:
So Harry, I can understand why a so-called 1 1/2 tubing would be 1 5/8
OD if
the tubing has a wall thickness of .0625. But are the other wall thicknesses
still 1 5/8 OD, letting the ID vary ? Seems an odd way of doing it.
Royce,
Yes, it does but the
It's so that the fittings will fit any thickness.
Mike Eorgoff
- Original Message -
From: Royce Woodbury [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 4:02 PM
Subject: Re: of boilers and things
So Harry, I can understand why
By varying the I.D., the O.D. remains the same and allows
all three series of nominal copper pipe (M, L, and DWV) to
share the same elbows, tees, reducers, etc.
Copper TUBING is another story...
Mike
Ciambrone, Steve OS wrote:
Mating Plumbing fittings!
Steve
dhh ! I knew that !
feeling stupid royce
Cheddar will build a boiler to your specs. Price? Check their site as shown
below.
http://www.modelsteam.co.uk/
Phil
Thanks Steve Keith for the comments about the PM Research boiler.
Keith,
if I may ask: what I'm considering isn't too different from the beautiful
Goldbug you're showing
Gordon,
I am NOT the original requester, but I'd love to have a copy of the
drawing!
Terry Griner
Columbus Ohio USA
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 02/02/02 02:51AM
Flouty,
Its been done .commercially..German co in 1980s
Ive got a section drawing of a 2-8-2 tanker in HO scale..worked on
18vdc
Flouty,
Its been done .commercially..German co in 1980s
Ive got a section drawing of a 2-8-2 tanker in HO scale..worked on 18vdc
resistance heater in horizontal boiler..can mailk you a drawing copy if you
like.
Gordon Watson.
Bob,
The way I discovered my safety being stuck was that I had no condensate
weeping through the safety as I normally do. A slight tug on the center pin
(not the stock safety obviously) set it free with a good blast of steam. (And it
looked Cool!, all safety considerations aside.)
Now the
At 10:55 AM 8/20/01 -0400, you wrote:
Now for your next act maybe a display showing the results of destructive
tests performed on 2 x 8 center flue butane boilers. One that the safety
didn't work, another that the boiler was run dry
Jim
Re your second suggestion, I predict the outcome
forget that part of the steamup process again!
=)
Trot, the hot-fingered, fox...
On Tue, 21 Aug 2001, Harry Wade wrote:
At 10:55 AM 8/20/01 -0400, you wrote:
Now for your next act maybe a display showing the results of destructive
tests performed on 2 x 8 center flue butane boilers. One
on Ruby boilers and I am impressed with
the apparent substantialness of their construction. No doubt a value
engineering design decision was made (a wise one) to maintain a substantial
safety factor in the boiler since Rubies would clearly be in the hands of
many beginners. They are made of at least
boilers.
Cheers,
Harry
This leads me to another thought I had lately, which is that of the
areas of our hobby that present potential problems, it seems to me fueling
and firing activities, and the construction of fueling components, present
a much greater potential for damage and injury than do boilers.
Good
Harry:
Now for your next act maybe a display showing the results of destructive
tests performed on 2 x 8 center flue butane boilers. One that the safety
didn't work, another that the boiler was run dry
Jim
showing the results of destructive
tests performed on 2 x 8 center flue butane boilers. One that the safety
didn't work, another that the boiler was run dry
I didn't mean it as a demo. I suggested he bring the results of the tests
for show and tell.
Jim
Jim,
I like that idea better now. grin
It would certainly show the importance of a properly built, maintained, and
operated boiler.
Later,
Trent
Jim Curry wrote:
I didn't mean it as a demo. I suggested he bring the results of the tests
for show and tell.
Dear All,
this sort of test has been carried out by Cheddar Models on one of the
marine boilers which is about the same volume, all that happened was that
the flu tube went phu! distorted as I understand it, basically no big
deal!. In the UK we have to have any boiler with a working pressure
At 10:55 AM 8/20/01 -0400, you wrote:
Now for your next act maybe a display showing the results of destructive
tests performed on 2 x 8 center flue butane boilers. One that the safety
didn't work, another that the boiler was run dry
Jim
Jim,
As much as I enjoy engaging
boiler codes (laws), most of which are based either
entirely or in part upon the A.S.M.E. Standards for Pressure Vessels,
contain clauses which exclude boilers below a certain volume or grate area
from compliance with state regulation or having to be built to code
standards. (A copper boiler cannot
Harry,
What would you predict the results would be if the boiler was very hot,
almost dry, and water was introduced? This was the apparent reason for the
traction engine failure recently resulting in loss of life. Obviously size is
of great importance here.
Keep your steam up!
Walt Lunk
Just a question from the side, how would you get enough water into one of
our type of boilers, I can see possibly how on a traction engine but not our
type, there is no where for the water to lodge! must go ,It's 22.13 here.
best regards
Geoff Waldorf
-Original Message-
From
atmosphere the boiling point
of water is 212 deg F. At 60 psi it's 307 deg F. (153 C.)In an
overheated or stuck valve condition in one of our boilers the pressure will
reach a point where the burner in incapable of adding enough heat to the
system to turn any more water to steam. Thus it has
Hello Everyone,
This is just meant to be humorous. Hope it gives someone a grin. 'Nuf
said.
My daughter received an, "Easy Bake Oven" from jolly 'ole Saint Nick.
She baked her proud daddy (that's me) a cake as payment for helping her
place the 100 watt light bulb in the oven so it would
Jim,
Have you tried using a thinner section of the material?
Keep your steam up!
Walt
burners to
take the place of the alcohol wick tubes. What do you think Vance?
Clark
VR Bass wrote:
The ceramic just replaces the poker. There is still a jet and an air mixing
orfice. Obviously, due to their size and shape, they only work with pot-boilers
or firebox type boilers. Advantages
Hi,
I do not know what Vance thinks about it, but the Cheddar works great in my
Aster Reno, and also two other Reno's that I know of. Now I need to figure
out how to put one in the Aster Americanized Mogul. That third axle presents
a little problem.
Keep your steam up!
Walt Mr. Lunk
Walt, did I miscommunicate in my previous note? I think the ceramic burners
are the best thing since the invention of fire! As a replacement for an alcohol
burner, they're absolutely smashing. But you cannot use them on an engine
like a (later production) Roundhouse or a Ruby, since there
I have little or no knowledge of thermodynamics, etc., I just know it is a
heck of a lot better than the three alcohol wicks of the original burner.
Keep your steam up!
Walt Mr. Lunk
Vance,
They make rectangular burners, the exact measurements I do not have here, but
it fits the Reno very nicely. I do not see why one could not be made that
would replace the burner in a Ruby. If the bottom were convex it would
probably conduct enough gas and the ceramic could be narrow and
of the gas
delivery tube, but that idea did not work in the confined space of our
boilers; it caused too much slow down. The best that I found was a straight
tube that caused the gas to bounce off the side walls before it went through
the ceramic. In the case of my 2" vertical boiler, I have
be late Fall or next Winter before I actually get to work on the boilers
that prompted my initial questions.
Casey Sterbenz
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
the clay (oil soak or cat litter) is used as a
heat soak to prevent un-soldering what you have already done.
Hmmm. I'm not sure about that one -- I had thought that the cat litter
functioned like the firebricks, to keep the heat from radiating off the
part of the boiler you're not working
What a relief to see someone mention oxy-propane. I've been using it for
years, especially in the "home" shop. The soot from acetylene is not welcome
in the confines of domestic habitation. I happen to be using a Smith's torch,
very old but still usable. The oxy-propane is a little more
pports our hobby in any way he can so we should support him
anyway we can. Besides, he can probably get it for you without you having to
make a dozen phone calls to people who didn't even know that anyone still
made boilers.
Later,
Trent
valuable and easily stolen tools!
On the topic of brazing hearths: often the dissipation of the boiler
(esp. large boilers) is too much for your torch -- even a big one. It's
often useful to have a helper with another torch (handheld plumber's
seems to work) to give it more therms. Someone
Hello Everyone,
The oil soak is cheaper (around here anyway).
You mean there's something other than cat litter to soak up oil?
I think I missed something, but the hearth is used for protecting your work area
from the heat and flame and to retain as much heat as possible into the work area,
Friends,
I'm tooling up to build a couple of locomotive boilers and am looking for
advice on details. I have already silver soldered couple of small boilers
using an ordinary hand held propane torch and a hardware store variety
oxy-Mapp torch so I know the basics of good silver soldering
I'm leaning toward propane for several reasons. Its cheaper than
acetelyne. Its readily available. It doesn't burn as hot as
air-acetelyne ... BTUs are generated faster than can be dissipated
by the copper used to make the boiler.
Casey, you're ahead of me in the boilers built category
If what you are going to do is medium size model boilers, then I would stick
to air-propane. After all, the cost is low, both for the equipment (you can
use a propane weed burner if you want), and the gas itself. However, if you
think that you might want to get into the larger models (say a 7 1/2
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
I have a 1 pound roll of Kester "44" Rosin Core 66", wire diameter 0.015,
95Sn/5Ag solder. I am interested in using it in model engineering and would
like to know the characteristics and properties of this solder. My
alternative, is to use silver solder
In a message dated 3/1/00 2:33:32 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
My Midwest kit instructions recommend Stay-Brite 4% silver solder
which I called "silver solder".
That is still soft solder, usually called "silver-bearing solder" to
distinguish it from solder
I don't want to belabor this point, but I feel compelled to speak up on this
one. It is agreed that a joint that has been _properly_ silver soldered is
considerably stronger than a joint that has been soft soldered. However,
this brings up two points:
1. It has been demonstrated empirically
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