I ordered a Ruby Kit and have it together. It has a minor
problem, the pressure valve runs at about half pressure so the
train really doesn't move but a new one is on order.
Once it's here and I get the timing adjusted I'll be all set.
Any suggestions on adjusting the timing?
Brad
Hello Everyone,
It's not nearly as precise or controllable, but the spring in the safety can
also be removed and stretched SLIGHTLY to accomplish the same result as shimming
it.
The way I did the one on my Jane was to remove the spring and measure it with
calipers in the relaxed state. I
it would be a good idea to double check the pressure of the ruby by having a
pressure gauge on engine for at least a few runs .i put washers on on both of
my ruby's pop valves both same thickness one pressure read 43 lb the other
read 72lb .I then switched pop valves same result
obviously the
Why do I overlook these great little bits of information on Vance's page? Maybe
I get in too big of a rush. Who Knows.
Thanks Vance!
Later,
Trent
VR Bass wrote:
(stretching the spring in the safety valve) is
documented for the Ruby on my Ruby Gallery page. John Thomson has a
Ruby with a
I don't yet have a superheater, but I have modified my original safety valve
as follows. Find a small washer, or combination of washers, that total 1.0
mm in thickness. Use this washer(s) to shim the safety valve spring. In
other words, put the washer(s) between the spring and the little "e"
I was hoping to be able to compare superheated/non-superheated Rubys at DH,
but most there were unsuperheated, and seemed to run quite nicely. I do get
a great deal of condensate out of the stack, but I don't know if
superheating would have much effect on that. It's only slightly less messy
than
Hello Everyone,
I realize that this is an old subject (even though it keeps reoccurring, much to my
delight) but I came across something that might be of interest or help to someone.
On Roundhouse Engineering's web page they have almost the exact setup for valve
guides that I mentioned a
For the truck under the tank I'm using a NorthEast Narrow Gauge truck that
looks close, with a minor modification, to the trucks used under the early
Maine forneys. I'll bring one to DH for show-n-tell.
Mike,
Won't make DH this year :(
Please forward the manufacture and model of the truck
In a message dated 01/10/2000 8:54:29 PM Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
It's on the underside, right under the footplate. There's a small brass
plate that names the maker and then there's a small piece of paper pasted
just below it.
Guess all the heat and oil washed it
reverse seems to require less steam for a given speed.
Jon, if it runs faster in one direction, make sure your reverse valve
is adjusted properly (there should be a page in the instructions on
how to adjust it, and it's also available on the Accucraft web site
under product support).
At 9:59 AM -0800 1/10/00, David M. Cole wrote:
I bet they are doing inventory in FIFO ... first in, first out ...
Geez, I'm doing well ... maybe I should try that sleeping thing: that
should have been FILO ... first in, last out ...
---
Dave Cole mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Daly City, Calif. USA
In a message dated 00-01-10 12:26:22 EST, you write:
I hope we'll have a good parade of "Ruby all
dressed up" in various ways. Mike, how's the Forney coming?
Vance, Jon, and list,
I'm afraid the forney project is not going to make an appearance at DH as it
is still far from done. I will
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