Hello Everyone,
I'm about to build a superheater for my Ruby and wanted to know if
there was anything that anyone has discovered that they would do
differently if doing it again.
The first Ruby superheater that I built, I just placed a union in the
line between the displacement lubricator
Another way to bend tubing, I'm told, is to fill it with "CerroBend"(sp?) or
one of the other low melting point alloys. Once the bend is complete,
boiling watter will clean out the alloy. Charles
Tony,
It's a done deal! bring it to Sacramento in July--and the steamup is on-you
can drive it! I'll report on the Dubro to the list. Ran my Aster BR Pannier
today in the No Cal drizzle--ran so well. My friend brought his S/B F/L
vertical boiler logging loco and his 0-4-0 S/.B F/L saddle
Harry Wade wrote:
What I'd think will affect the extent of expansion more
than anything else will be the amount of cooling of steam taking place
along that same path.
Well said, Harry.
royce w
Also, Bob has 'em at Sulpher Springs. Got mine there.
- Original Message -
From: "VR Bass" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2001 10:16 PM
Subject: Re: URL for Ruby SUPERHEATER?
You can get th
VR Bass wrote:
to bend the steam feed line up against the
bottom of the boiler, and clamp it there with the boiler bands.
Wouldn't this ensure contact with a surface in contact with water (vs steam)? I
realize that the air will likely be cooler than the boiler shell, but the heat transfer
One thing to take into account is that the temp required to boil the water
raises as the presure does. Water in the boiler might be hotter than
steam outside it. {:)
Trot, the unsure, fox...
On Fri, 16 Mar 2001, Royce Woodbury wrote:
VR Bass wrote:
to bend the steam feed line up
to bend the steam feed line up against the
bottom of the boiler, and clamp it there with the boiler bands.
Wouldn't this ensure contact with a surface in contact with water (vs steam)? I
realize that the air will likely be cooler than the boiler shell, but the heat
transfer
will be
Yes Tony et al,
On tubing bending and springs, I also like Walt's sand idea which I'm
going to try next time. I'll have to look for those Dubro tube benders too,
but this area doesn't have a hobby shop of any consequence AT ALL.
Guy Fawkes and Catherine wheels"! Ah nostalgia!
Rule
How does one bend Stainless (or any other type) tubing without crimping it?
I would pour/draw some woods metal into the pipe before bending. The woods metal will
help to keep the diameter, and melts around 300 deg F, so it will come out easily with
a propane torch. I've seen woods metal
PROTECTED]
To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2001 9:20 AM
Subject: Re: URL for Ruby SUPERHEATER?
Hi,
possible #5: If the diameter is large enough, fill the tube with dry fine
sand. Plug both ends so the sand does not run out. Works like
: URL for Ruby SUPERHEATER?
A tool I found very helpful in bending copper tubing
is a spring device available through most hardware
stores. The device is sized for the od of the tubing
you want to bend. In operation you feed the tube
through the spring
In a message dated 01-03-15 07:37:52 EST, you write:
How does one bend Stainless (or any other type) tubing without crimping
it?
I purchased some 1/8 od stainless from a local supplier (Portland OR)
that I bent,cold, around a 1/2" dowel pin using a bender that I fabricated.
I made
At 02:42 PM 3/15/01 EST, you wrote:
In a message dated 01-03-15 07:37:52 EST, you write:
I purchased some 1/8 od stainless from a local supplier that I bent cold,
Coming from the large scale end of the hobby, where the size of steam
supply passages are a consideration (not a worry, just a
How do you define 'Unobstructed'? Is a fairly tight (1") radius bend in an
1/8" tube an obstruction, or are you primarily referring to 90 angles and
restrictions in diameter?
I would think a large line leading to a smallish cylinder (Such as a RUBY)
would 'overload' it, making it nearly
At 02:50 PM 3/15/01 -0600, you wrote:
How do you define 'Unobstructed'?
Chris,
I would define an obstruction as something like a steam tube was
flattened (but not collapsed) in making a tight bend, or where steam maybe
has to pass through a paper thin slit between the cylinder head and block
Hi Geoff,
I have also seen the flaired springs, but not in small gauge sizes. So
I use small parrallel springs. They are ok for the small amount of bending
I need to do. The Dubro tube bender from airplane or boat model shops looks
good also.
Am I the only other person who
You can get the spring type tubing benders from MicroMark. They're less
than $10 for a set of four.
regards,
-vance-
Vance Bass
Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA
Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass
I have seen several Live Steam forums discussing adding a SUPER-HEATER
to the AccuCraft RUBY, but none have referenced any URLs where someone
can see actual plans/material lists/instructions. If someone out there
knows where I could find this (or any other RUBY mods) I'd appreciate it
if you
Check Steam in the Garden. The mag carried an article
mid last year on Ruby mods. As for access, contact
Sulphur Springs as Bob was considering carrying a few.
Sulphur Springs has been a good source of add on or
after-market parts for several different engines.
mp
--- Chris wolcott [EMAIL
I think Clark Lord posted some photos of Kevin O'Connor's superheater in
place. No plans. I don't think you really need plans, though, and the fact that
there are three or four substantially different superheater types out there in
Rubies seems to confirm this.
All you need is a way to
Do you cut the steam line on the outflow side of the lubricator, then bend
it around towards the backhead and down the flue? I take it that this does
not interfere with removing the burner for cleaning?
That's one way of doing it. I would not cut the line, but rather make an insert,
with
VR Bass wrote:
How does one bend Stainless (or any other type) tubing without crimping it?
The easiest way is probably to find a really big bolt, one with a pitch diameter
the same as your intended coil. Use the threads to guide the bend and to
support the sides without putting pressure
Vance and everyone,
Ok, this is one of those things that I should know, but don't.
Would the KS stainless tubing gain any workability by heating it like we sometimes
do to copper to anneal it? I sincerely hope that's not a stupid question.
Later,
Trent
(Stop laughing.)
VR Bass wrote:
"M. Paterson" wrote:
A tool I found very helpful in bending copper tubing
is a spring device available through most hardware
stores. The device is sized for the od of the tubing
you want to bend. In operation you feed the tube
through the spring and then bend the spring with
tubing
Hi Vance,
Reference tube bending without kinks.
1. For cold bending small bore copper brass or
stainless tube, I pass the tube through
a length of tightly wound coil spring. Then bend tube over a
mandrel or by hand.
The coils prevent the tube diameter
First, I am not an expert by any sense of the word. These are some of
my observations made while kit-bashing my Ruby. I have superheated my Ruby
conversion (Rosey) with a single straight piece of stainless steel tubing
through the flue. I tried a four turn coil but had a lot of
On Tue, 14 Dec 1999, VR Bass wrote:
[ Snip ]
Perhaps there's something about the burner in your engine?
And what would there be about the burner? How does one improve a burner?
Related to this, what do jet numbers on burners mean? Is there a
translation to size of hole? Why would you
"David M. Cole" wrote:
Didn't Kevin increase the size of the gas tank on his Ruby? Considerably?
Yes he did. The original prototype tank was very small and could
sustain only about 10 minutes of burner time. So Kevin doubled the size
and reworked the burner. His suggestions have been
Has anyone had any experience with installing a superheater in a Ruby? If
so, could you please share your information, photos, sources etc.
Any help would be greatly appreciated,
Randy Roberts
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