Hi Geoff,
I have also seen the flaired springs, but not in small gauge sizes. So
I use small parrallel springs. They are ok for the small amount of bending
I need to do. The Dubro tube bender from airplane or boat model shops looks
good also.
Am I the only other person who understood your comment on "Catherine
Wheels"?.
Bet no one knows who Guy Fawkes was either!!!.
"Rule Britannia!".
Tony D.
At 12:11 PM 3/15/01 -0800, Geoff Spenceley wrote:
>Yes Tony,
>
>I even have a set of springs designed for tube bending-The springs are
>flared at the end for easy insertion of the tubing. Unfortunately, I have
>had them a long time and don't recall where I got them. However they must
>be available somewhere!
>
>Geoff.
>
>Hi Vance,
> > Reference tube bending without kinks.
> > 1. For cold bending small bore copper brass or
> >stainless tube, I pass the tube through
> > a length of tightly wound coil spring. Then bend tube over a
> >mandrel or by hand.
> > The coils prevent the tube diameter distorting. To remove bent
> >tube, simply "unscrew"
> > the coil spring from the tube.
> > My local hardware store carries coil springs down too .090" i/d.
> > 2 For larger tubes I have used coil springs through the tube
> >bore, with same results.
> > 180 degree bends are easily achieved with this method.
> >
> > Need to ensure at least one end of coil spring is protruding in
> >order to grip and
> > unscrew. 9Or spring becomes a permanant fixture!.
> > Alternatively you could leave spring in place, dependant on final
> >usage.
> >
> > 3 I use same method for ensuring water feed pipes from tender to
> >boiler do not get
> > kinked in use, and looks prototypical if springs are visible on
> >outside.
> >
> > 4 Dependant on individual design needs, cold bending is still risky,
> >and copper or
> > stainless tubes can easily crack. Therefore even a low heating
> >temperature localised
> > in prime bending area helps the bending process considerably.
> >
> > Tony D.
> >
>
> >
>
>
>
