I think I like it!
I had thought on this, but not much given the small clearance involved. I
was actually considering going with a two-bolt solution that would remove
the protusion completely, replacing it with an oval cap that would hold an
o-ring against the face of the cyl cover. Using tiny s
In a message dated 3/11/03 4:47:26 PM Pacific Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<< I don't understand how this would be done simply... Can you elaborate? >>
Landon,
Not a problem, sorry that I didn't make it clear. The gland on the front
cover is just the right size to accept a 3/16 x 4
I don't understand how this would be done simply... Can you elaborate?
Trot, the interested, fox...
On Tue, 11 Mar 2003 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> In a message dated 3/11/03 9:35:52 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
> << Ruby doesn't have O-ring cylinder covers. It uses
>
Sure it's quality... just don't _ever_ forget to fill the lubricator! (no,
I don't know that from experience, mine leaks even though I've always
filled the luber. :( ) This is something else I'm going to ask my
lathe-weilding friend if I try making slide valves. Real glands!
Trot, the fox who'll
In a message dated 3/11/03 9:35:52 AM Pacific Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<< Ruby doesn't have O-ring cylinder covers. It uses
metal to metal seals. >>
It is pretty simple to thread 3/16 x 40 and use corresponding 1/4 hex nuts.
I wrap graphite yarn in mine, but I still have probl
And here I thought Ruby was a quality entry level engine. You just never know
what you are getting these days. VBG
Clark
TrotFox Greyfoot wrote:
>
> Just as a note... Ruby doesn't have O-ring cylinder covers. It uses
> metal to metal seals.
Just as a note... Ruby doesn't have O-ring cylinder covers. It uses
metal to metal seals.
Much to my dismay. :(
Trot, the fox who's had 'em apart...
On Tue, 11 Mar 2003, Clark Lord wrote:
> I have engines with both O ring rear cylinder covers (Aster Mikado, Frank S,
> Ruby) and string packin
Royce Woodbury wrote:
>
> Thanks Jim, Paul & Clark for your suggestions. One thing that I haven't
> done yet is use any packing in the piston and valve rod glands. How
> might packing them affect things ?
Well all steam engines leak a bit. That's part of the charm (fun). Now when
under stea
Thanks Jim, Paul & Clark for your suggestions. One thing that I haven't
done yet is use any packing in the piston and valve rod glands. How
might packing them affect things ? I don't seem to be getting alot of
blow by out of the gland nuts. Is packing gonna put alot more friction
in the sys
And still another hint. Put your chassis over a oil changing pan or something
to catch oil drips. Hook it up to your air supply. As Jim says make sure you
have a few drops of steam oil in the air line. Begin running the engine chassis
and then pour some transmission fluid over the entire thing.
Royce:
>At what air pressure should I
consider my Philly ready for steam ? <
Having built several kits or rebuilt engines let me offer this. The lower
the pressure you can get it to run under air, the quicker the break-in
period under steam. Not only are you seating the various engine parts bu
On Sat, 8 Mar 2003, Royce Woodbury wrote:
> So I did what I thought was a reasonable
> thing. I bought a brand new 7/16" reamer (import, I think) and ran it
> thru the bore. On inspection, I was horrified to see a helical score in
> the bore, a result of a burr or something on the reamer.
>
is : is this too large a bore for a 7/16 O ring (.4375
nominal) ?
And if I may ask another question : At what air pressure should I
consider my Philly ready for steam ? It will stall sometimes if I
"meter" the air lower than the "line" pressure of 10 psi. And these p
At 07:17 AM 5/17/02 -0700, you wrote:
>In time, I hope to be able to make a steamer with only a set of files and
drills. : )
Royce,
Don't laugh . . . it's been done.
Regards,
Harry
Harry Wade wrote:
>
>
> Royce,
> There are several ways to do this but the first quick/cheap/good way
> to do it that comes to mind is to turn a recess to fit the head in a
> block of wood, . . . for light work wood kills several birds with one
> stone for me.
Harry. Thanks for you
Peter Trounce wrote:
> Hi Royce,
> Depends on how much perfection you want to get.
Hi Peter. Thanks for your suggestion. If I had as much experience metalworking
as I do woodworking, I would use your method in a second. But I haven't gained
the confidence with a file to create proper cleara
IL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2002 10:52 PM
Subject: another question
> Hi folks. Thanks again for all the helpful input. Don't know what I (or
> others who may be struggling in the dark) would do wit
At 07:52 PM 5/16/02 -0700, you wrote:
>And now it's time to bore holes for the flues. How do you hole this
bugger to accurately to drill/bore/unibore the flue holes?
>royce in SB
Royce,
There are several ways to do this but the first quick/cheap/good way
to do it that comes to mind is to an
lpful input has brought me to another question. I have built the
boiler end plugs for my boiler out of .050" copper sheet, bending over a form,
annealing, etc. And now it's time to bore holes for the flues. The OD of the
smaller plug is only 1.4". How do you hole this bugger to a
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