Paul Flinders wrote:
On 29/07/12 07:21, Mike Millen wrote:
Fluxclene is also excellent for removing glue residue left by labels,
etc.
Yes, I saw your previous message and certainly plan to try it (might
try some lighter fluid first). In fact was going to order it from
link you posted until I
On 29/07/12 07:21, Mike Millen wrote:
Fluxclene is also excellent for removing glue residue left by labels,
etc.
Yes, I saw your previous message and certainly plan to try it (might try
some lighter fluid first). In fact was going to order it from link you
posted until I hit the £12 postage
Paul Flinders wrote:
On 28/07/2012 22:38, John Miles wrote:
I can't guarantee anything, but I'd be surprised if Fluxclene
didn't do the trick:
http://www.electrolube.com/docs/cleaningmain.asp?id=13
Thanks I'll give it a try.
Also try some naptha (sold as lighter fluid, or as a product called
On 28/07/2012 22:38, John Miles wrote:
I can't guarantee anything, but I'd be surprised if Fluxclene didn't
do the trick:
http://www.electrolube.com/docs/cleaningmain.asp?id=13
Thanks I'll give it a try.
Also try some naptha (sold as lighter fluid, or as a product called
"Goof-Off.")
goof-of
> > I can't guarantee anything, but I'd be surprised if Fluxclene didn't
> > do the trick:
> >
> > http://www.electrolube.com/docs/cleaningmain.asp?id=13
> >
> Thanks I'll give it a try.
Also try some naptha (sold as lighter fluid, or as a product called
"Goof-Off.")
-- john, KE5FX
Miles Design L
On 28/07/12 21:13, Mike Millen wrote:
Paul Flinders wrote:
On 27/07/12 03:17, Tom Miller wrote:
I agree with Ron. Clean the board up real good then do an inspection.
Talking of which does anyone have any suggestions as to with what?
I've tried IPA, ethanol, acetone and even some of the tiny a
Paul Flinders wrote:
On 27/07/12 03:17, Tom Miller wrote:
I agree with Ron. Clean the board up real good then do an inspection.
Talking of which does anyone have any suggestions as to with what?
I've tried IPA, ethanol, acetone and even some of the tiny amount of
1,1,1 trichloroethane I have l
On 27/07/12 03:17, Tom Miller wrote:
I agree with Ron. Clean the board up real good then do an inspection.
Talking of which does anyone have any suggestions as to with what? I've
tried IPA, ethanol, acetone and even some of the tiny amount of 1,1,1
trichloroethane I have left (yes, I know it'
nd frequency measurement
>Subject: Re: [time-nuts] 5MHz ocxo- Opening Solder sealed cans
>
>On 26/07/12 20:49, Tom Miller wrote:
>> Pick up a few sticks of ChipQuik and mix it in with a good iron.
>Then,
>
>> you may do just what you say. It should melt below abou
Ron Ward sayeth:
Hi:
I have been looking at the poor quality solder joints on the oscillator.
If you have a steady hand and a small tipped soldering with silver
baring (about 2% silver) solder, I would re-solder the connections. Many
of them do not look properly "wetted" and cold. Some of the hea
On 27/07/12 03:17, Tom Miller wrote:
I agree with Ron. Clean the board up real good then do an inspection.
With a microscope if you can get your hands on one. Look for cracked
SMT parts. The high heat from the oven could very well stress the
parts causing a failure. Flux the board up and hit al
me and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] 5MHz ocxo- Opening Solder sealed cans
On 26/07/12 20:49, Tom Miller wrote:
Pick up a few sticks of ChipQuik and mix it in with a good iron. Then,
you may do just what you say. It should melt below about 95°C.
A good hot air heat gun would
[time-nuts] 5MHz ocxo- Opening Solder sealed cans
On 26/07/12 20:49, Tom Miller wrote:
> Pick up a few sticks of ChipQuik and mix it in with a good iron. Then,
> you may do just what you say. It should melt below about 95°C.
> A good hot air heat gun would most likely do the trick. Maybe use
OK
I get to add 10 cents here.
Yes indeed various foam stuff goes to heck after many years and can indeed
become this strange goo-ie stuff. Or it gets all flakey. Well the good news
is stuff seems to work and that can be frustrating. So I would suggest the
very deep dive and look at all of the sold
On 26/07/12 20:49, Tom Miller wrote:
Pick up a few sticks of ChipQuik and mix it in with a good iron. Then,
you may do just what you say. It should melt below about 95°C.
A good hot air heat gun would most likely do the trick. Maybe use some
solder wick first to lower the amount of tin/lead sold
t: Thursday, July 26, 2012 2:20 PM
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] 5MHz ocxo- Opening Solder sealed cans
On 26/07/12 17:49, Tom Miller wrote:
Hi Bob,
Did you look at his pictures of the oscillator? I think the base will
need to be secured and the top pulled off. This is different from most
of the OCX
On 26/07/12 17:49, Tom Miller wrote:
Hi Bob,
Did you look at his pictures of the oscillator? I think the base will
need to be secured and the top pulled off. This is different from most
of the OCXOs I have seen.
I'm somewhat tempted to try putting the bottom in the vice, heating the
whole sea
Bob
-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On
Behalf Of Tom Miller
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2012 12:49 PM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] 5MHz ocxo- Opening Solder sealed cans
Hi Bob,
Did you
e time and frequency measurement'"
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2012 12:05 PM
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] 5MHz ocxo- Opening Solder sealed cans
Hi
Standard approach:
1) Secure the "top" of the part (the cover) in a vise. You need something
between the cover and metal jaws to keep it fro
sage-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On
Behalf Of Demian Martin
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2012 6:47 PM
To: time-nuts@febo.com
Subject: [time-nuts] 5MHz ocxo- Opening Solder sealed cans
Bob:
Perhaps you can describe how to do this. I can't see a way t
;
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2012 7:28 PM
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] 5MHz ocxo- Opening Solder sealed cans
How about using a commercial type Hot Plate. I have one that
can be set to temp. I use it for cleaning SMD devices off PC
boards.
73, Dick, W1KSZ
-Original Message-
From: Demian
How about using a commercial type Hot Plate. I have one that
can be set to temp. I use it for cleaning SMD devices off PC
boards.
73, Dick, W1KSZ
-Original Message-
>From: Demian Martin
>Sent: Jul 25, 2012 3:47 PM
>To: time-nuts@febo.com
>Subject: [time-nuts] 5MHz o
Bob:
Perhaps you can describe how to do this. I can't see a way that would not
make a huge mess (big torch) or not ever get there (big soldering iron). I
would really like to be able to get inside of some of these without making
them all into trash.
Demian
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