Yep, that's normal for a car with some mileage under its belt.
Electrical gremlins are one of the more common killers of these cars,
that and blown head gaskets with rusting being the third.

Go get some pipe cleaners, a toothbrush, electrical contact cleaner and
some dielctric grease.  With the above implements go through every
connector under the hood and scrub them clean and replace the dielectric
grease.  Replace or repair any connectors that look suspect, make sure
the mating connectors fit tightly.  Remove/check the various grounds
(near the battery, from the firewall to the fuel rail, from the
passenger motor mount to the passenger frame rail, etc)  Finish with the
connectors at the logic module at the passenger kick panel.  This
includes the battery terminals.

Make sure your black plastic heat/water cover is installed on the
distributor and that your distributor wires are tied up out of the way
and that your multiprong connectors are zip tied together.

More than likely you'll find some erroneous stuff.  If you install a
newer mini-nippendenso alternator from a later FWD car you'll find the
motor won't be as likely to stall from the extra load of the cooling fan
being added.  A newer fan motor would probably help as well as the
motors take more energy to start as they age.

Good luck,
Stefan Mullikin
Portland, OR
Co-Founder
PNW-SDAC
http://www.pnw-sdac.org
1980 Fiat X-1/9
1984 Dodge Rampage 2.2
1987 Dodge Daytona Shelby Z
1987 Shelby CSX #106
1988 Shelby CSX-T #3


-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Donald L.
Gilbert, Jr.
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2005 1:57 PM
To: Shelby Dodge List; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: SD> Stalling, No Restart 1987 SC

Seems like I don't write for months, then I write a bunch in a few days.

Took the 1987 SC out for inspections.  It passed without trouble, runs
good now that the timing belt is in the right place.  Pulls hard, spun
tire in second gear.  Felt like it used to.

So I stop at a local motorcycle place to look up some part numbers, come
back out to the car and it won't start.  It cranks, but no fire.  It has
done this before, especially on hot summer days.

I get the service manager to run me up to Advance Auto Parts and I get a
new ignition pickup (Hall Effect) and install that.  NO CHANGE, still
won't start.  I thought that my Hall Effect was going bad from other
peoples suggestions.  Last time it did this, it would restart after
sitting for 15 minutes.  No luck this time.  My parents live about 30
minutes away so I call them and my mother says she will come pick me up.
When she arrives, the car still won't start.  Figuring I have nothing to
loose, I check the codes.  Here's the list.

22 : Coolant Temp Sensor ( I expected that because I tried to start it
unhooked hoping to fire in the closed loop setting)
27 : Fuel Injector Control Circuit or injector circuit not responding (
That's new to me)
34 : Speed Control Vacuum ( don't have speed control )
43 : Ignition Control circuit or spark interface circuit ( Another new
one to me )
54 : Problem with the distributor synchronization circuit ( related to
43 ? )

So I unplug connectors, the one near the baro sensor ( 5 wires ? ) had
oilly crud in it, so I wiggled it around, the plug on the power module
pushed in a hair and the rest that I could get to easily looked good.  
Got in, turned the key, fired right up.  THIS MAKES NO SENSE !!!!

So I drive home, running very well again.  Pull in the driveway and let
it sit running.  At one point when the radiator fan kicked in, I thought
it was going to stall.  It stumbled, recovered and kept running.  I shut
it off, waiting 10 minutes, tried to restart it.  It fired up.  I
checked the codes again and got,

12 : Memory standby power lost
34 : see above

All the other codes were gone.

I really need some help here folks.  I don't want to drive it to
Carlisle like this.

Thanks

Donnie
1987 Shelby Charger
Greensburg, PA

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