It is good to see that high level muckety mucks still know where the shop apron is. ;-))
Al At 08:04 AM 07/08/2002 -0500, you wrote: >RALPH: >the whole reason taper tip shafts came about was to create a "swaged" or >locked assembly with the clubhead back in times when epoxies did not >exist and glues were not that strong. Epoxies today are incredibly >strong so even if you don't get a tight lock on tapping/hammering the >shaft down into the bore, you will get enough holding power from the >epoxy. Still, best to really clean out the bore, especially the bottom, >rough the tip of the shaft heavily and slam the shaft down firmly into >the hosel so you feel that it is bottomed out. And while the mallet >approach will work ok, day in and day out the method for force and speed >I see the most in any shop/factory I have visited is to apply the epoxy >to the tip and inside of bore, insert the shaft with a spinning motion, >hold the head by the blade in the right hand, the shaft about 12" below >the head in the left hand, and while pushing the two parts together with >both hands, slam the butt of the shaft down on the cement or a metal >plate 2-3 times to feel the shaft move down to the bottom of the bore. > >TOM W > >-----Original Message----- >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] >On Behalf Of Ralph Harwood >Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 7:21 AM >To: Shoptalk >Subject: ShopTalk: question about taper shafts > >I am getting ready to re-shaft some taper heads for the first time. Will >it be necessary for me to use something like a small mallet to wedge in >the shaft to the head if the shaft does not bottom out? I have >concerns about the shaft wiggling out even with real good epoxy. > >Thanks! >Ralph
