AL:
HEY, you made me feel good with that comment!!  Your comment made me
think how it is interesting to see how many "new" clubmakers don't have
the old shop skills, only the ones concerning assembly.  I remember a
couple of years back when I needed some help and was teaching Darron, we
were working on wood designs.  I drew some lines on the head showing how
I wanted him to change the shape, handed him the epoxy block and
switched on the sander.  He stopped and begged off because he told me he
had never sanded a woodhead before - so 30 something and under means no
baptism under persimmon to cut your teeth!!!  Little consolation for old
farts like you and me, eh??

TOM W

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
On Behalf Of Al Taylor
Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 11:05 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: ShopTalk: question about taper shafts

It is good to see that high level muckety mucks still know where the
shop 
apron is. ;-))

Al

At 08:04 AM 07/08/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>RALPH:
>the whole reason taper tip shafts came about was to create a "swaged"
or
>locked assembly with the clubhead back in times when epoxies did not
>exist and glues were not that strong.  Epoxies today are incredibly
>strong so even if you don't get a tight lock on tapping/hammering the
>shaft down into the bore, you will get enough holding power from the
>epoxy.  Still, best to really clean out the bore, especially the
bottom,
>rough the tip of the shaft heavily and slam the shaft down firmly into
>the hosel so you feel that it is bottomed out.  And while the mallet
>approach will work ok, day in and day out the method for force and
speed
>I see the most in any shop/factory I have visited is to apply the epoxy
>to the tip and inside of bore, insert the shaft with a spinning motion,
>hold the head by the blade in the right hand, the shaft about 12" below
>the head in the left hand, and while pushing the two parts together
with
>both hands, slam the butt of the shaft down on the cement or a metal
>plate 2-3 times to feel the shaft move down to the bottom of the bore.
>
>TOM W
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
>On Behalf Of Ralph Harwood
>Sent: Monday, July 08, 2002 7:21 AM
>To: Shoptalk
>Subject: ShopTalk: question about taper shafts
>
>I am getting ready to re-shaft some taper heads for the first time.
Will
>it be necessary for me to use something like a small mallet to wedge in
>the shaft to the head if the shaft does not bottom out?  I have
>concerns  about the shaft wiggling out even with real good epoxy.
>
>Thanks!
>Ralph

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