Thanks for the tip... unfortunately I don't have a freq. meter but a clubmaker I know does and when I get to build the whole set I am going to get his help in doing all of that kind of prep work up front for me so I can just assemble - we'll do all the measurements and put the shafts in the appropriate heads based on s/w and frequency etc.

I learned a fair bit already from this 3 club test - need to cut the shaft closer to actual length before dry fitting and testing s/w -- i didn't realise the weight distribution in graphite varied as much as it did -- I dry-fitted without cutting to length which in steel always worked out!

Learning as I go! : )

Jen


Ed Reeder wrote:


Jen,
Regarding tips for next time:

Leave an extra inch on the butt end of the club to give room to make
weight adjustments to the head until the target SW is exactly where
needed.

After you have reached your target cpms (assuming you have a freq. meter).

Prior to assembly you can double check your swingweight estimates.
It is best to do this without a grip (a 50g grip is almost exactly 10
points) and with the shaft one inch longer than your target (adds 6
points, for a total of 16 points). The extra length allows you adjust
the club if needed.  (Don’t forget about the 1/8-inch grip cap
allowance.  Use a 1/8-inch drill bit as a spacer when placing the
shaft in the SW scale).

Now you check the SW, with 3 possible outcomes:

1. SW is just right - great!  Quit.
2. SW is too low - add more tip weight (will reduce cpms), so you nee
   more tip trim to get the frequency back up.  (Tip trim has more
   effect than butt trim, so the extra inch on the butt is priceless).
3. SW is too high - use the shaft in next lower club.  Because, if you
   reduce tip weight (which will increase cpms) there is no way to
   decrease the cpms (except to increase the length of the club past
   your initial target)

/Ed

Jen Kuntz wrote:

<snip>

I just checked John's s/w calc again with my final weights and came up with D1, D0, D0 as the respective estimated S/W. They are "close" but all different, I think my scale is ok. I am surprised (a) that they are all light with the exception of the first one and (b) that John's calc and my actual s/w don't seem to jive.

Am I missing something that would account for the results coming in different than expected/estimated? Any suggestions for next time? The only thing I can think of that I should have done was once I tip trimmed, probably should have butt trimmed to length to get the most accurate representation of final length and dry fit the hosel weights from there. ??


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