Dave, The hosel ID is actually slightly larger than even the shaft OD, so using a wood 0.335 wood shaft can give you a hosel plug that is too small (and that could fall into the head, don't ask me how I know). I would suggest a 0.370 iron shaft for the plug making tool.
Tedd -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dave Tutelman Sent: Monday, May 21, 2007 2:07 PM To: ShopTalk@mail.msen.com Subject: RE: ShopTalk: Charlie's Rat Glue Trick Answering a few posts in one, all on this topic... >-----Original Message----- >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Sent: Monday, May 21, 2007 9:27 AM > >Is he using rat glue or hot melt? Do you remember the hot-rat-glue gun >brand? It is some sort of glue that is a lot more liquid when heated considerably. But it remains tacky and malleable at room temp. (If TFlan is right about hot melt breaking loose and rattling, then that is NOT what this is.) I don't remember the brand. Maybe Charlie will chime in here. >How are you making your own hosel plugs? I missed that post. OK to >use as a cheapo tip on a resource page? OK to do so. At 09:57 AM 5/21/2007, Childers, Tedd A wrote: >John, >You can also use the top of a coffee can or some other type of plastic >container and then cut out the correct size hole. You need a metal tube >of the correct inside diameter to match the hosel ID. That is what I do. A "metal tube... to match the hosel ID". Now what could that be? Let's see. How about a shaft tip? That was DESIGNED to match the hosel ID. I use the parallel shaft top. At the business end, I use my coning reamer to get a very sharp edge to the shaft tip. At the other end, I epoxy a dowel with a stepped 3/8" hole through it as a handle. You have to leave the hole open above the handle, but you want the top stepped smaller so the shaft tip doesn't injure your hand if the epoxy lets loose. Hope this helps. At 08:47 AM 5/21/2007, Don M wrote: >--- Dave Tutelman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > BTW, if you don't have rat glue, Part A of two-part > > epoxy is > > sufficiently viscous and stays that way. (Also > > Charlie's idea.) > >I'm very skeptical of that. It flows quite easily in >the bottle. I'd have to think you have a big glob of >weight sitting at wherever is the lowest point inside >the head at any given moment. On the course it'd be >inside the crown somewhere. Don, You could well be right. I've never investigated too thoroughly just where the stuff winds up. For 5-10g, it probably doesn't matter. For the 15-20g you need to build a 43.5" driver from a standard component head, it might very well matter. And for the 135g for a heavy practice driver, it must matter. I do have confidence in the hot rat glue I used for those more demanding applications. I've never used one part of epoxy for more than about 10g. But it might very well shift. TFlan, I have on occasion mixed lead powder (never tungsten, though I occasionally use it) to make a weighted slurry. Cheers! DaveT -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.7.6/813 - Release Date: 5/20/2007 7:54 AM
