Clayton Family wrote:
Wow- that is something. That is what must be happening to the oxides
in the jar, and why there is a stronger tyndall- if it is a colloidal
molecule. I am assuming you meant 3 percent peroxide?
Yes, missed the % sign somehow.
And I am wondering if you remember how long it took- how slow is slow?
Very slow, but there was little surface area on the wire, which was
about an inch long, and was placed into about an ounce of 3% peroxide.
It took a day or two for the wire to show corrosion, actually silver
oxide on its surface. Then several more days before the silver oxide
was reduced to colloidal particles so that I could detect any
significant tyndall.
Also, peroxide kinda kills my mucous membranes, I don't know about
anyone else. It would have to be on the strong side to dilute out
enough to not burn.
That is why I did not pursue it, because the 3% peroxide would be so
strong, it would be unusable for taking orally. But if you can take
shavings, or powder which has much more surface area, and use a few
drops of peroxide in a glass of water instead of 3%, then maybe there is
something there.
Another thought that came to me at the time, that people make it grey
and sludgy and drink it that way on purpose, but I had a hard time
with the particles, one of the reasons I try so hard to make a nice
clear solution.
Uggg..
Marshall
Kathryn
On Oct 23, 2007, at 9:34 AM, Marshall Dudley wrote:
This is some really good information. I had done some testing a few
years ago, and reported that H2O2 will slowly oxidize silver to
silver hydroxide and silver oxide, then reduce it to a colloid, but
really never thought about it being practical, primarily because I
had used a length of silver wire, and 3 H2O2. Anyway, this is worth
remembering, in an emergency, if you have some silver and H2O2, you
could probably make some CS on the spot without any electricity.
Marshall
Clayton Family wrote:
I did something like that, with the batch I burned a while back.
After I screamed and fainted, got back up and realized the silver
fuzzy thing was not going to crawl out of the jar and get me, I
poured a fresh jar of d. water, and put the whole fussy mess in it
to soak- I figured I'd deal with it later. The next day it was
looking yellow gold, and I put a couple of drops of h2o2 in it-
oops! it turned cloudy, and I wrote in for help. Meanwhile, I
noticed the fuzzy trodes were not very fuzzy anymore, and the
solution had light tindall, and tested at about 10 or 12 uS. Wow! I
thought- cool! I left it for some more days, then diluted it to
about 10 uS, and I have about used it up. The rest I diluted down
and added h2o2 one drop at a time and that is almost used up too.
The final strong solution ended up reading clear at 58uS, a little
tyndall.
Now I have put more dw in the jar with the white silver oxide 9or
whatever) on the bottom, and added h2o2 and let it set- it has some
tyndall and some uS readings. I am not sure if I want to drink that
or not.
kathryn
On Oct 22, 2007, at 9:09 AM, Dan Nave wrote:
I've been wondering for a while whether we couldn't just mix all the
buildup on the electrodes back into the solution and then just give
it a
big shot of H2O2 to break it all back up. Should end up with a pretty
high ppm CS brew.
Dan
You wrote:
" If the EIS colloid portion does agglomerate into those larger
particles, a touch of Hydrogen Peroxide will generally break them back
up into the smaller colorless variety...even at 100 PPM.
The density of the particles in the water will then usually make it
look light grey in direct sunlight and show a very heavy thick laser
beam. [It may still appear "clear" in indirect light but look
"milky" in
direct light. ]"
-----Original Message-----
From: Ode Coyote [mailto:odecoy...@alltel.net]
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 5:51 AM
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