You can however have a slower reaction along with faster production by using larger electrodes.
Heating the water increases initial conductivity which in turn gets the reaction started faster, but heating the water to over 110 deg F often results in particle collisons due to excessive Brownian motion that will cause aggomeration of small particles into large ones.
If you run a fast reaction over a small electrode area, there are lots of particles crowded together in a high energy zone near the electrodes that will collide with the same result. Constant Stirring helps prevent that from happening.
"The Same Difference
The biggest "secret" about the manufacture of high quality colloidal silver is that it is nearly impossible to standardize the product. Silver is apparently reactive to a number of natural forces that have yet to be identified. Even when the voltage, the water, and the water temperature are identical, different batches will proceed at different rates on different days. The speed of the reaction can vary by over 100% depending on the day. On "normal" days, the reaction is proceeding well by 15 minutes, with a visible cloud of particles. On "slow days" it may take 30 minutes before any visible production of yellow particles begins. Because of this variation, it is always wise to observe the reaction with a B flashlight so you can see how quickly the reaction is happening. Once the yellow cloud starts forming, time the batch for 5 more minutes. This is the best way to standardize your home brewed colloidal silver."
What BS.
It's is impossible to predict anything without controlling the current. Voltage is pretty much irrelevent.
If you control the current, you can caluculate the conductivity of the water by how low the voltage has gone.
While a yellow brew is not a "bad" brew and the particles are probably small enough, it's not the smallest particle stuff you can make.
"If you buy one of the colloidal silver makers on the market, make sure it can make the "yellow" particles. When you make it yourself, make sure you are making the "yellow" particles. If you have any doubts about the quality of the product you are making or buying, you can send samples to any of the following laboratories for definitive testing. "
Now that's interesting. It appears he doesn't know how to make anything else.
"The new Model D, the upgrade to the popular CS-300C Colloidal Silver Generator used by thousands of happy and healthy people around the world for over 3 years, makes the same super-small silver particles as the Model C, but with several advantages: it uses a standard or rechargeable 9-volt battery; consistent results batch to batch due to constant voltage internal regulator circuit (steady 30 volt output); usable with any available power source including sunlight or car cigarette lighter!
NOW AVAILABLE: The Quik Silver 47 Colloidal Silver Generator with built-in timer for only $99. With the same proven constant voltage and particle size as the CS300 series. Now includes 110v AC adapter!
New self-timer version Quik Silver 47 only $99.!"
A constant voltage generator. There you have it.
Any battery worth anything will give you constant voltage. It's what they do. A battery will try to give you a constant voltage at any current draw and burn itself up trying if you exceed the parameters of its design.
Generating CS doesn't draw enough current to burn up or drop the voltage of any battery made.
An exact equivalent of 3 nines [regardless of the gimmics put together to achieve the final effect, the final effect is the very same as a set of batteries]..for only $149.00
Timers do not work with constant voltage devices unless ALL factors are identical. Not even close!
This generator will "run away" like any constant voltage generator will. Try predicting the speed or inpact time of a falling object when you don't know how tall the building is that it was dropped from and a slight variation in weather will make the building 10 to 100 feet taller or shorter.
Timers will work with constant current devices IF you know where you are when you start timing. If you look at the voltage at a given constant current, it will tell you where it is and how long it will take to get anywhere else because ion emmision rates are keyed to current, not voltage.
"Replacement electrode set $10 good for 5 to 10 gallons"
Looks to be about 4 or 5 " and probably 14 gauge. [couldn't find the specifics] If you use an entire electrode set up in 5 gallons of water, what is the PPM? 10 gallons? [Math heads?]
I also couldn't find what the PPM is 'supposed' to be or how to predict it..only mentions of 2 to 5 PPM being a "sufficient" concentration. Found some vague references to 3 to 5 PPM.
Covers his butt by telling you nothing?
>>>>
"There are many technical considerations to address in making this determination. Generally speaking, a 3 - 5 ppm high quality colloidal silver product is a sufficient concentration for effectiveness in the body."<<<<
"The CS-300D produces true colloidal silver through electrolysis, the preferred method of manufacture. It electrically sinters microscopic particles of silver off the .999 silver electrodes into water. When you place the silver electrodes into water, you can see the colloidal changes taking place before your eyes. During the colloid making process, bubbles come off one electrode while the other darkens and emits a fine mist of microscopic silver particles."
Not true or at least misleading.
Sintering implies a direct formation and release of particles as in electro-sputering where very high voltages and currents actually BLAST particles off the electrodes...usually done in a vacuum.
The electrodes release ions which then form particles. Ions are so small that visible light won't show their presence ie: You can't see them. The ions remain ions until a saturation point is reached even if it's in a localized area such as right near the electrode, then crystals/particles form [the so called "ion cloud"...remember, you can't see ions?]
>>>>
"Visual Qualities [Excerpt from
Colloidal Silver: The Natural Antibiotic
by Zane Baranowski, CN ]
One indicator of the quality of colloidal silver is its color. As the size of each silver particle gets larger, the color of the suspension ranges from yellow (best) to brown, to red, to gray, to black (inferior). The increasing size of the particles also reflects a proportionate decrease in quality of the product. Colloids of silver that are produced using the electro-colloidal method are a different color than the grind or chemical method forms of colloidal silver. That rule generally applies, except in the case of some brands that use an artificial yellow dye to falsify the proper color. Color variance also depends on concentration, stabilizers, and the presence or absence of other trace elements. The ideal form of colloidal silver will be almost colorless or have a very light yellow color."
Apparently Zane doesn't know how to make the [better than "best"] colorless CS either, pale yellow ["best"] being better than deep yellow being better than brown...but has a clue. [He forgot to put violet just before red]
Grey and black settle out and don't really qualify as colloidal in size. [in my book]
Electron microscope testing will give you the size of the oxides formed after the solution has been dried..not the size of the particles that were in the water.
All of the silver comes off the electrodes as ions which later form particles no matter what sort of system you are using to generate an ionic discharge.
My opinion? The very worst generator for the dollar that's not simply buying 3 nine volt batteries and a few wires for $100 to $150. [That could be an even worse value]
As for the process used and some [not all] of the info presented?
I think this guy is a bit short of clues.
Oh this is good..
http://www.elixa.com/silver/addendum.htm
[...or how to make your CS agglomerate if all other attempts have failed.]
"It has been discovered that if the electrical reaction in the water is slowed down, the Colloidal Silver particles that are produced are SMALLER. This is good! To slow down the process, the water must have a higher resistance. What this means is, don't use any electrolyte in the water."
ie: If the water has more resistance, it won't pull as much current, will make smaller particles and won't run away as fast. [But it will still run away and you still won't know how fast it ran or how far]
All this amounts to is making the starting point further down the path so the runner doesn't get up as much speed in a given distance...and the end PPM will be lower as well. [a LOT lower]
PS, if you slow it down enough and keep it slow, it won't be yellow even at 20 PPM.
IMO If you ever see a golden whisp of anything, you're going too fast to make small particles. You're making biggish ones 'right now' rather than waiting for them to form later. It may disperse and clear up in a 5 PPM concentration so as to be invisible to the eye but if you don't make that which should disperse in the first place, it needn't do it.
If a colorless CS has gone to yellow, it's because the small particles have formed larger ones. [agglomeration]
Ode
At 09:48 AM 10/11/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>To anyone that wishes to comment pls.
>
>Here is a comment taken from the following web site: http://www.elixa.com/silver/lindmn.htm
>----------------------------------------------------------------
>"It's In The Water
>... Another variable that influences particle size is the water temperature. The warmer the water, the faster the
>reaction will take place, and the smaller the particles will be. "
>---------------------------------------------------------------
>Is this correct: The warmer the water, the smaller the particles will be ? or am I
> reading this incorreclty ?
>
>I understand that the reaction will be faster but what about particle size ?
>
>Thank you.
>
>Gaston
>
>
>
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