### 200 microamps is 2 milliamps, right? Some people stop at 20 milliamps..I prefer to keep the current down to 1 millamp per square inch of exposed electrode and stop at some voltage. [At the very least, a graph made that way levels off so you can read it and predict something with reaonable accuracy VS trying to get meaningful resolution off a ski jump curve] It takes a lot longer to do it that way though. [hours, not a just few minutes]
One simple way to handle current and calibration is to make the electrodes movable along a ruler. Keeping the current constant by moving the electrodes apart will automatically give you a linear readout on the ruler where 'X' inches = 'Y' conductivity. >Anyway, with an ammeter in line with the electrodes, I can see a current of >150 micro amps which has risen to about 200 micro amps in 10 minutes. >There are no bubbles or white, grey wisps coming off the other. > >Is there any way of finding the PPM with the starting and ending current? (a >formula) ### You can do that, in essence, making a conductivity meter out of the generator setup which has it's own weirdnesses and inaacuracies but is better than nothing. It will be entirely dependent on water temperature, electrode spacing, electrode size and voltage [or current] held constant, so ANY little change in the setup will throw it off. Electrode deposits can significantly change readings and simply moving the electrodes a little will make a reading rise or fall [spike], then stabilize. If no or insufficient stirring is being used, a reading will only apply to a localized area in the water...not all of the water. Since no two individual setups are exactly the same, there cannot be an easy formula. Change one thing, even a little, and EVERYTHING else changes with it. Nail every variable element down, plot a current rise per time period graph and compare readings with a good meter to make a chart. Then send samples to a good lab to determine if the graph and chart is somewhere in the ballpark for your setup. The graph will look like a ski jump after a while using constant voltage...now what part of this nearly vertical line is what PPM? Meters don't read PPM..nor do generators being used 'as' a meter. There is no specific direct correlation between PPM and water conductivity [which 'is' related to current draw at a set voltage] that always holds true even when using the same generator setup. You can get "close" ,as in, educated guess, within a given range. That means that every sample must come from it's own seperate batch run exactly the same way.. in every way.. because taking the sample will change the batch. The stronger you make it, the more particles will form faster and faster..the 'whisps' [you can't see ions and ions are what do the conducting of electricity, not particles]..and PPM/conductivity/ammeters don't register particles at all. On top of that, particles form later on, so readings change too...and those changes are volume related as well. A small batch won't change the same as a larger one. If you are very careful, you can get a good idea. If you don't take everything into consideration, you'll get a bad idea and won't know it. The saving grace, however, is that exact PPM really doesn't matter much. Your taste buds and eyeballs alone give you a pretty good idea of how much to use in an environment where no one person "really" knows how much to use for what and how, even if they DID have the exact PPM figures. There simply are no dosing standards that I've heard of that make any sense at all. Without exception,[so far] recommendations totally leave out critical elementary factors such as application technique, purpose, location and body weight. "Enough" works just fine. If it worked, it was enough. Several small doses a day are probably much better than one big one. "Too much" is the hardest part to accomplish. It might even be impossible [up to a point] with water being as toxic as it is along with the difficulties involved with making CS very strong AND 'not sludge'. You 'can' get into trouble using a lot of sludge for a long period of time...even then, unlikely. If it looks like crap, it probably is. If it doesn't look like crap, it's probably under 30 PPM..most likely under 15 PPM ..even 5 PPM sometimes...using constant voltage. Making nice looking stable CS at over 20 PPM is usually an 'iffy' affair. Ode > >Thanks, >Brian. > > >-- >The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver. > >Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org > >To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com >Silver List archive: http://escribe.com/health/thesilverlist/index.html > >Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com >OT Archive: http://escribe.com/health/silverofftopiclist/index.html > >List maintainer: Mike Devour <mdev...@eskimo.com> > >
