I use Goop. A dab about the size of a small pea on the four corners, then press into place.
Actually I set the servo linkages up beforehand (arm angle, pushrod length etc - totally complete), then when it comes time to mount the servos I plug in a RX and turn the system on. With the servos in the neutral position I apply the goop and roll the servo into the wing and press it down. unplug the RX and let it dry. The advantage of Goop is that at the microscopic level it it attaches itself to the servo case's plastic much better than epoxy, and the glue joints will not fail as catastrophically (with epoxy, an event that disloges the servo - does so completely). This process, along with also adhering to the inner surface of the servo cover, makes for zero servo movement. Don't use too much Goop, getting the servo out will be more difficult than epoxy, and (for the ashetically anal) the splooge out the sides shrinks such that it may create an outline of the servo on the upper surface. Keep in mind that the reason epoxy works at all is not because it has adhered to the servo case, but because it has created surface tension at the microscopic level. A hard landing can disrupt this and the servo is now floating around inside the servo bay. Unless you notice, chances are you would launch again. Goop elliminates this possibility. Quoting Tom Copp <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>: > This is easy, do a test. Find an old servo with a clean case. Mix up some 5 > minute and micro about like mayonnaise. Put about a quarter size blob on the > servo case side and squish it to a piece of smooth clean 1/4 plywood and you > want to push down so the servo contacts the wing but not forces the wing > flat in one area, push down so the epoxy just rolls out all sides about > 1/16. If you put too much then you get more roll out. So push down and get > the squeeze out and then just hold "light pressure" until it cures. Now > about 2 hours later try and pull it out. > > Now sand the servo case with 150 grit, clean and repeat the test. > > The un-sanded servo will hold well for most guys and easily come out in a > hard landing or when you want it to. The sanded servo will stay put in a > hard landing but still come out when you want it to but will take a little > more force. > > Also add some 8oz glass or carbon to the wing skin to stiffen the servo area > if it has not been already done for you before you epoxy in servos. > > Tom Copp > Composite Specialties > www.f3x.com > 949-645-7032 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Corey Groves [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2006 8:14 AM > To: Soaring@airage.com > Subject: [RCSE] Epoxied servo techniques > > That is something I know I would be very interested in. Based on the > comments here there seem to be a huge variance in techniques when > going for the glue-in approach. I have only seen two variations where > the servo is glued in using a bed of epoxy and micro balloons and is > either bare or wrapped in masking tape. But some people are describing > servos that pop out of the epoxy easily and others are describing > needing to grind the servos out. > Can those who have had really good luck with gluing there servos in > provide some insights? > Thanks for all the information, > Corey > > > > > RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and > "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that > subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME > turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are > generally NOT in text format > Simon Van Leeuwen PnP Systems - The E-Harness of Choice Radius Systems Cogito Ergo Zoom RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send "subscribe" and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
