We do pretty much the same - a fisheye lens shooting in 3 directions for good overlap, 10 exposures via software control and stitch the result into a fairly highres LatLong HDRI 360. This is good for lighting and in most cases reflections too, but hardly enough resolution for a background. The software control for multiple exposures makes for better quality HDRI's as clouds, cars and pedestrians move less, and we can get in and record the HDRI in about a 10th of the time we used to without it, in all only some 5 minutes break for the crew for one HDRI. The Director and 1st AD will be much happier too.
The chrome ball comes in to use in tight spaces where it is hard to fit in a camera on a tripod, but it is mostly sttting and collecting dust on a shelf these days. Mind you, if we had more time on a shoot I would like to have a chrome ball and a grey ball and have them in front of the liveaction camera just after the clapper - it would help setting up HDRI's and lights and balance the whole thing faster when lighting your scenes. Morten Den 16. januar 2013 kl. 12:11 skrev Anthony Martin <anthonymarti...@googlemail.com>: > These days I use the chrome ball just for light positioning reference. For > capturing the actual HDRI I'll use a fish eye lens on a DSLR, nodal ninja > attached to a tripod and then shoot between 8-10 images (including direct > above and direct below) covering the scene. > Then load these into PTGui Pro and let it stitch them into a LongLat HDRI. > Works like a charm. Both quick to do on set and quick to assemble when you > get back to the office. > Digital Tutors actually have a good set of lessons on this. > http://www.digitaltutors.com/11/training.php?pid=599&autoplay=1 > <http://www.digitaltutors.com/11/training.php?pid=599&autoplay=1> > > > On Wed, Jan 16, 2013 at 9:22 AM, Cristobal Infante < cgc...@gmail.com > <mailto:cgc...@gmail.com> > wrote: > > think you will have on set. Most of the times this can be a major issue, > > since they may need to move the lighting setup several times in one day and > > you don't want to be the guy slowing everything down! > > > > the chrome ball is probably the fastest method and still does the trick. So > > if you need to capture a lighting setup fast this will be your best bet. > > Defently worth getting one in any case (garden mirror balls). > > > > > > > > On Wednesday, 16 January 2013, Rob Wuijster wrote: > > > Yes, there's a version 2 out of the book, there's a page on the hdrlabs > > > website explaining the book and has links to Amazon for the paperback and > > > ebook. > > > > > > The site, forum and book are -the- main sources of information on this. > > > Of course there are other sites dealing with this, but hdrlabs has it > > > condensed into one big package. > > > > > > > > > Rob Wuijster > > > E > > > r...@casema.nl > > > \/-------------\/----------------\/ > > > > > > > > > On 15-1-2013 23:09, Byron Nash wrote: > > > > I found the book HDRI Handbook really helpful on that site. I think they > > > > have a newer version since I read it. > > > > > > > > > > > > On Tue, Jan 15, 2013 at 4:27 PM, Paul Griswold < > > > > pgrisw...@fusiondigitalproductions.com > wrote: > > > > > Hey guys - > > > > > > > > > > I've been asked to help out on the show "Film Riot", and one of the > > > > > things > > > > > we were discussing is creating your own HDR images. > > > > > > > > > > I know HDRLabs has a ton of great info, but I was curious to know if > > > > > anyone > > > > > else had any good info or resources on the subject that I could pass > > > > > along. > > > > > > > > > > It's not something I normally do, so I wanted to make sure I was > > > > > giving > > > > > them up-to-date info. > > > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > > > > > Paul > > > > > > > > > > > > > No virus found in this message. > > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com> > > > > Version: 2013.0.2890 / Virus Database: 2638/6034 - Release Date: > > > > 01/15/13 > > > >
