You don't need a macro lens, because you want to place yourself far away from the wall. The longer the lens (more tele) the less distortion and more detail your chrome ball photo will have.
On Thu, Jan 17, 2013 at 2:53 PM, olivier jeannel <olivier.jean...@noos.fr>wrote: > Thank you Phil, > > To shot a chrome ball then, do you know what type of lens is necessary ? > Is it a macro lens ? > > Cheers, > > Olivier > > Le 17/01/2013 13:24, Phil Williams a écrit : > > I'm no expert by any means, but generally speaking there are pros and cons > to both ways; chrome balls are quicker, easier and cheaper but are lower > quality (fine for capturing the light in most cases though). > Fish-eye/wide-angle lenses make it a bit more technical and time consuming > but give higher quality results. > > As rough guide (depends on your setup/lenses), a chrome ball only takes > 1 or 2 pics to get the job done (x by multiple exposures). Whereas a > fish-eye lens with a pano head would take 4-6 photos (x multiple exposures) > and a wide-angle lens would take considerably more, anywhere between 12-30 > photos depending on the lens and crop factor (x multiple exposures). > > Cheers > Phil > > > > > On 17 January 2013 11:59, olivier jeannel <olivier.jean...@noos.fr> wrote: > >> I've never captured myself spherical HDRI's, so bare with me if it is a >> dumb question but : >> Nowadays, to capture the HDRI environment, people are still using an HDRI >> ball, or are they using wide angles (10mm or 8mm) fish eye camera lenses >> (without any sphere at all) ? >> >> Olivier >> >> >> >> Le 17/01/2013 12:06, Adam Seeley a écrit : >> >> Quiet a few smartphone & tablet solutions around now as well.... >> >> Haven't use one yet but looking forward to trying. >> >> http://www.ononesoftware.com/products/dslr-camera-remote/ >> https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.dslr.dashboard&hl=en >> >> Adam >> >> >> >> ------------------------------ >> *From:* adrian wyer >> <adrian.w...@fluid-pictures.com><adrian.w...@fluid-pictures.com> >> *To:* softimage@listproc.autodesk.com >> *Sent:* Wednesday, 16 January 2013, 15:25 >> *Subject:* RE: capturing spherical HDRi's? >> >> and of course if you shoot Nikon (like you should, if you have any >> sense ;-p ) >> >> http://breezesys.co.uk/NKRemote/index.htm >> >> a >> >> ------------------------------ >> *From:* softimage-boun...@listproc.autodesk.com [mailto: >> softimage-boun...@listproc.autodesk.com ] *On Behalf Of *Lp3dsoft >> *Sent:* 16 January 2013 15:02 >> *To:* softimage@listproc.autodesk.com >> *Cc:* softimage@listproc.autodesk.com >> *Subject:* Re: capturing spherical HDRi's? >> >> Hi, >> >> I've used this in the past for remote bracketing, works well >> http://www.breezesys.co.uk/DSLRRemotePro/index.htm >> Some other interesting bits on their site as well. >> And I don't think anyone as listed it in the thread but best place to >> look for basics and how things work is http://www.hdrshop.com/ >> >> Hope it helps >> >> Cheers >> >> Lawrence >> >> On 16 Jan 2013, at 14:35, Byron Nash <byronn...@gmail.com> wrote: >> >> I find that the slowest thing on set is capturing all the exposures. I >> don't have a tool like the Promote Controller or any other device to >> automatically fire off the brackets. After seeing a video of the author of >> the HDRI Handbook on set, I'm convinced the fastest method is a pano rig >> like the nodal ninja with a spherical fisheye and something to fire the >> brackets automatically. In and out very quickly. >> >> On Wed, Jan 16, 2013 at 9:08 AM, Jahirul Amin <aminjahi...@yahoo.com> >> wrote: >> Slightly off topic but this is pretty interesting stuff... >> >> >> http://fxguide.com/fxguidetv/fxguidetv-165-scott-metzger-on-mari-and-hdr/ >> >> J >> >> >> >> On 16 Jan 2013, at 13:19, Morten Bartholdy <x...@colorshopvfx.dk> wrote: >> >> We do pretty much the same - a fisheye lens shooting in 3 directions >> for good overlap, 10 exposures via software control and stitch the result >> into a fairly highres LatLong HDRI 360. This is good for lighting and in >> most cases reflections too, but hardly enough resolution for a background. >> The software control for multiple exposures makes for better quality HDRI's >> as clouds, cars and pedestrians move less, and we can get in and record the >> HDRI in about a 10th of the time we used to without it, in all only some 5 >> minutes break for the crew for one HDRI. The Director and 1st AD will be >> much happier too. >> >> The chrome ball comes in to use in tight spaces where it is hard to fit >> in a camera on a tripod, but it is mostly sttting and collecting dust on a >> shelf these days. Mind you, if we had more time on a shoot I would like to >> have a chrome ball and a grey ball and have them in front of the liveaction >> camera just after the clapper - it would help setting up HDRI's and lights >> and balance the whole thing faster when lighting your scenes. >> >> Morten >> >> >> >> Den 16. januar 2013 kl. 12:11 skrev Anthony Martin < >> anthonymarti...@googlemail.com>: >> >> These days I use the chrome ball just for light positioning reference. >> For capturing the actual HDRI I'll use a fish eye lens on a DSLR, nodal >> ninja attached to a tripod and then shoot between 8-10 images (including >> direct above and direct below) covering the scene. >> Then load these into PTGui Pro and let it stitch them into a LongLat >> HDRI. Works like a charm. Both quick to do on set and quick to assemble >> when you get back to the office. >> Digital Tutors actually have a good set of lessons on this. >> http://www.digitaltutors.com/11/training.php?pid=599&autoplay=1 >> >> On Wed, Jan 16, 2013 at 9:22 AM, Cristobal Infante < cgc...@gmail.com > >> wrote: >> It really depends how much time you think you will have on set. Most of >> the times this can be a major issue, since they may need to move >> the lighting setup several times in one day and you don't want to be the >> guy slowing everything down! >> >> the chrome ball is probably the fastest method and still does the >> trick. So if you need to capture a lighting setup fast this will be your >> best bet. Defently worth getting one in any case (garden mirror balls). >> >> >> >> On Wednesday, 16 January 2013, Rob Wuijster wrote: >> Yes, there's a version 2 out of the book, there's a page on the hdrlabs >> website explaining the book and has links to Amazon for the paperback and >> ebook. >> >> The site, forum and book are -the- main sources of information on this. >> Of course there are other sites dealing with this, but hdrlabs has it >> condensed into one big package. >> >> Rob Wuijster >> >> E >> >> >> r...@casema.nl >> >> \/-------------\/----------------\/ >> >> >> >> On 15-1-2013 23:09, Byron Nash wrote: >> >> I found the book HDRI Handbook really helpful on that site. I think >> they have a newer version since I read it. >> >> On Tue, Jan 15, 2013 at 4:27 PM, Paul Griswold < >> pgrisw...@fusiondigitalproductions.com > wrote: >> Hey guys - >> >> I've been asked to help out on the show "Film Riot", and one of the >> things we were discussing is creating your own HDR images. >> >> I know HDRLabs has a ton of great info, but I was curious to know if >> anyone else had any good info or resources on the subject that I could pass >> along. >> >> It's not something I normally do, so I wanted to make sure I was giving >> them up-to-date info. >> >> Thanks, >> >> Paul >> >> No virus found in this message. >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >> Version: 2013.0.2890 / Virus Database: 2638/6034 - Release Date: 01/15/13 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> ------------------------------ >> No virus found in this message. >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >> Version: 2012.0.2221 / Virus Database: 2638/5536 - Release Date: 01/15/13 >> >> >> >> > > -- Martin Contel http://seminoize.com
