Hi  Jim,
        Thanks  for  feedback.  I  raised 
the  question  about  draining  boilers  or  not , 
as  I  have  never  heard a  definative  answer  one  way  or  the  other , 
as  yet.  And  the  question  of   some  "stainless"  byepass  balls 
corroding,   could  appear  to  be  a  related issue.
         Personnally, 
I  have  noticed  an  occasional  problem  when  the  byepass  ball  on  my 
  U1  has  stuck  closed  after  leaving  the  boiler  stored  "dry",   but 
  then  freed  off  when  engine  was  really  warmed  up.  But  i  do  not 
  see  the  same  problem  when 
engine  is  stored  with  a  boiler  full  of  water. 
I  have  dismantled  the  byepass  valve  several  times,  and   the  ball 
has  always  been  rustfree. (I  now  keep  water 
in  my  boilers  all  the  time, as  you  do).
          My  King  George   kit  the  the  byepass  ball  was  an  orange 
coloured  hard  plastic,   but  I  replaced 
it  with  a  stainless  ball  for  my  own  "piece  of  mind".
           In  my   background  of   manufacturing  engineering  I  also 
have  used 
several  different  types  of  stainless  steel  and  found  303/304  to 
be  the  least  prone  to  corrosion.
            I  have 
also  worked  with  individual  engineers  whose  finger  print,s 
could  rust  stainless  in  less  than  24  hours!.  These guys 
rapidly  gained  the  nickname  of  ''Rustyfingers".  You  soon  learnt  to 
  never  loan  these  guys  any  measuring  equipment!.
            (I  am  not  suggesting  we  have  some  "rusty  live 
steamers",  in  our  group.)
Crusty  maybe?.
             Regards,
              Tony  D.

5:29 AM 1/29/01 -0800, Jim Curry wrote:
>Tony:
>
>During my running season, May thru November, I have never drained the water
>out of any locomotive boiler.  Engines that are stored at my office on
>shelves stay full year-round.  Engines that are stored in my unheated shop
>are drained for the winter.  I haven't noticed any complications due to
>either storage condition and that includes Aster, Argyle and Roundhouse
>engines that have check valves.  As has been mentioned in previous
>discussions, stainless comes in various grades.  316 or 316L stainless is
>specified for marine submersion service so if someone finds their
>check-balls are corroding that would be a material to consider changing to.
>Most unlabeled stainless sold at hardware stores, etc. is a 304 grade.  I
>have seen 304 exhibit brown rust type of oxidation in fresh and salt water
>use so if you find yourself needing to change balls I'd give consideration
>to 316.  My Aster Grasshopper came with a kind of soft check-ball (rubber?)
>which was never reliable.  Some kind soul gave me a stainless ball and all
>is well.
>
>Jim
>
>
 

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