Bert & Edmunda wrote: >Steve, > >Do you have the possibility of keeping the cyl. heads cool while >warming the cylinder?. > >That's about all I can offer. > >Bert > > > The method I was given in instructions for fitting a new piston and glanded rear cover to an existing cylinder was thus.
Remove cylinders from loco. Grip the cylinder port face block in a vice. Do not grip the cylinder barrel as you will stand a good chance of distorting it. Tap the end of the piston rod smartly with a small hammer. This will remove the blank cylinder cover. Turn the assembly in the vice. Use a flat faced punch or a decent piece of suitable rodding. Place this into the cylinder through the open end, and on to the piston. Take care not to catch the cylinder walls with the punch otherwise you may score it. With the piston against the cylinder endcap bearing the gland (or what passes for it) tap the punch sharply . The piston and endcap should come off. I know this works with Mamod cylinders, but I have not tried it with an IP Jane or MSS/PPS products. I suggest you contact the importer /manufacturer to confirm a push fit. Sam E PS I THINK I removed the brass 'big end' from the piston rod. It is a push/force fit. This avoided distortion when striking the piston rod with a hammer. _______________________________________________ SSLiveSteam mailing list Send messages: [email protected] Cancel subscription: http://postfix.45mm.com/mailman/listinfo/sslivesteam Rules: http://www.45mm.com/sslivesteam_guide.html
