> Sam Evans wrote:
>
>>The method I was given in instructions for fitting a new piston and
>>glanded rear cover to an existing cylinder was thus.
>>
>>Remove cylinders from loco.
>>
>>Grip the cylinder port face block in a vice.  Do not grip the cylinder
>>barrel as you will stand a good chance of distorting it.
>>
>>Tap the end of the piston rod smartly with a small hammer.  This will
>>remove the blank cylinder cover.

Depending on how far the the little end cap is drilled and if the gland nut 
is threaded deep enough to get clearance that might work...on one of my 
cylinders it just drove the little brass end further on the piston 
rod...then it just bottomed on the gland nut and scratched my cylinder block 
as I continued.

When I finally got the assembly fixed and going back together...the 
hammering on of the brass rod end had flared the hole so that the darn end 
kept coming off...tried locktite, JB Weld,running some solder and redrilling 
to fix it...finally had to cross drill it and put in a 1mm pin.

That is why from then on I twist the little end off first...also watch when 
you tap it back on...just enough to hold ...if you drive it on too far on 
rotation of the wheels the end cap will bind on the gland nut...you can 
imagine how I found that out...to stop it bottoming I even filed the gland 
nut to get clearance...if you can mess up IP cylinders I have found every 
conceivable way...

Just for fun I will attach my latest powered by an IP cylinder...a scale 
deWinton in 16mm scale on "O" gauge track...yet to build the water tank 
which will cover the flywheel and yet to put on the scale safetys.

...Tony 
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