: >>Sam Evans wrote:
>>>Tap the end of the piston rod smartly with a small hammer. This will >>>remove the blank cylinder cover. > > Tony wrote: > Depending on how far the the little end cap is drilled and if the gland nut > is threaded deep enough to get clearance that might work...on one of my > cylinders it just drove the little brass end further on the piston > rod...then it just bottomed on the gland nut and scratched my cylinder block > as I continued. > The method described by me was for Mamod GLANDLESS cylinders. As I said, I did not know whether it would work with Mamod derivatives. > When I finally got the assembly fixed and going back together...the > hammering on of the brass rod end had flared the hole so that the darn end > kept coming off...tried locktite, JB Weld,running some solder and redrilling > to fix it...finally had to cross drill it and put in a 1mm pin. You could always put a pin of the appropriate diameter into the big end boring to prevent distortion when applying the hammer. > > That is why from then on I twist the little end off first...also watch when > you tap it back on...just enough to hold ...if you drive it on too far on > rotation of the wheels the end cap will bind on the gland nut...you can > imagine how I found that out...to stop it bottoming I even filed the gland > nut to get clearance...if you can mess up IP cylinders I have found every > conceivable way... > Seems sensible to me. Sam E _______________________________________________ SSLiveSteam mailing list Send messages: [email protected] Cancel subscription: http://postfix.45mm.com/mailman/listinfo/sslivesteam Rules: http://www.45mm.com/sslivesteam_guide.html
