Hi Jim:

I've always thought a sphere would be best for most nodi (or is it noduses?)
A sphere produces a shadow that is usually elliptical (except when the sun
is directly overhead, then it's a circle) so it is fairly easy to
guesstimate where its shadow's center is, producing more accurate time and
date readings.  Whereas if the nodus is any other shape, its shape becomes
distorted especially when the sun is at a low altitude in the am and pm,
making it more difficult to read.

It's debatable, I guess, whether the tip of a pointed rod gnomon or the tip
of a triangular sheet gnomon might be better than a sphere.  If you used a
shadow sharpener with these pointed tip gnomons, they would of course work
better than a sphere gnomon.  A shadow sharpener would be useless on a
shadow cast from a sphere because it would not help you to find the center
of the elliptical or circular shadow.

Also, I just like the look of a sphere better.

Anyway, those are my thoughts on the subject, for what it's worth....

John

p.s. Don't forget to calculate the minimum diameter of the sphere so that
it's shadow will still produce an umbra.  To do this, calculate the maximum
distance from the sphere to the dial face that the shadow will have to be
projected. Then use the "Fuzz Factor Ratio" (1/107) to calculate it's
minimum diameter.  We found out at Kitt Peak that you will want to make this
diameter slightly larger than the ratio indicates.

For example:  If the maximum projection distance is 107meters, then the
minimum sphere diameter is 1.07 meters.  But I'd make the sphere a little
larger than that. ~ 1.5 meters or so.  It's hard to be exact, because when
you look at these shadows, it's really a judgment call.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "J.Tallman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Sundial List" <sundial@rrz.uni-koeln.de>
Sent: Monday, July 12, 2004 5:35 AM
Subject: Re: Turtle Bay Sundial Bridge opens


> Hello All,
>
>
>
> > If they just use the tip of the angled pieceas the gnomon (or nodus) and
> > forget about using the edge of angled piece, then it could work.
>
>
> I have been wondering about the practical realities of the use of a nodus
> that is 200 - 300 feet away from the dial face.  Wouldn't the umbral
effect
> blur the shadow of a nodus to the point of it being difficult to see?
>
> John, I suspect that you may have the best practical experience with this
> after working on the Kitt Peak project.  What do you think the best
> configuration would be for such a nodus?
>
>
> Best,
>
> Jim Tallman
> Sr. Designer
> FX Studios
> 513.829.1888
>
>
>
>
> -
>


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