Dear Thomas,

I like your design.  You ask for ideas
and comments.  Here, in order, are the
steps that I use myself for a big wall
sundial:

  1. Make a careful survey of the wall.
     The wall will NOT be flat.  No wall
     is ever flat!!!  It won't be vertical
     either.  No wall is ever vertical!!!

     [Warning: if the wall leans forward
      slightly and if it is slightly convex
      you will discover that the January
      point on the 1 o'clock analemma is
      off the left-hand edge of the wall,
      well to the left of its theoretical
      position if you assumed a flat
      vertical wall.  Real life is tough!]

  2. Decide on the nodus height.  If the
     wall is convex you may choose to reduce
     the height a little to ensure that your
     big analemma is entirely on the wall.

  3. Construct the nodus support and the
     nodus and attach them to the wall.
     You will need to worry about stiffness
     and resistance to wind loading.  You may
     need to check with building inspectors
     that it is safe and won't fall down.

  4. AFTER the nodus is in position you
     should mark out a 1m grid.  Remember,
     the wall is NOT flat (even if you think
     it is) so what IS this grid?  I use a
     "best-fit vertical plane" and the origin
     (0,0) of my grid is the sub-nodus point
     marked on this plane.  This may be a
     little inside the wall or a little
     outside it.  That doesn't matter.

  5. Take a look at:

     http://www.cl.cam.ac.uk/users/fhk1/PSQ.jpg

     to see an early stage of marking out the
     1m grid.  The white spots are spaced at
     1m intervals and the top row of spots
     form the horizon line.

     This line follows the curve of the wall.
     One of the spots is the closest I could
     get to the sub-nodus point.  The sub-nodus
     point was, in fact, about 3mm inside the
     wall so this white spot was 3mm closer to
     the nodus than the actual sub-nodus point.

     Using an up-market surveying instrument,
     little crosses were marked on the white
     spots.  I use an (X,Y,Z) co-ordinate
     system where (0,0,0) is the centre of
     the nodus.  The Z-axis is horizontal
     and normal to the best-fit vertical
     plane.  Positive-Z is outwards from
     the wall so X is to the right and Y
     is upwards as expected.

     Each white cross had (X,Y) co-coordinates
     which were (m,n) where m and n are integer
     numbers of metres.

     Note that the Z co-ordinate varies a
     little from point to point.  I repeat:

              NO WALL IS FLAT!!!

  6. You now have a big grid.  You then have
     to mark some trial points using this
     grid.  I would start with that January
     point on the 1 o'clock analemma.  I am
     VERY nervous about that point!!

     The Z-value at that point is the local
     nodus height.  This will probably not
     be the same as what you assumed when you
     used your computer to draw the plot!

     If the wall is convex the Z-value will
     be larger than you expected and you will
     have to shift the point.

  7. A very useful check is to plot the
     actual position of the shadow of the
     nodus during the course of the day.
     In your case for about three hours
     at this time of year.

     I make a mark about every 10 minutes
     and survey the marks.  I then compare
     the survey positions with the positions
     I had computed.

     It is best to do this in summer (I
     appreciate this is not possible yet!)
     because this is when the shadow gets
     furthest from the sub-nodus point and
     the variations in Z-values have most
     effect.

  7. Once you have gained confidence in the
     ins and outs of your wall you can start
     marking out your dial furniture.

     [Another warning: all this can get very
      frustrating because you keep discovering
      new dips and bumps in the wall.  That
      said, it is very rewarding if you get
      it right!!!]

Have fun with the sun.  I wouldn't like to set
out a big wall dial at this time of year myself.
I prefer warmer weather!

Best wishes

Frank H. King
Cambridge, U.K.

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