Thank you for the data Ed, because I did never really research it.
I can belive the bar and chain life extension, but it is not my
experience that it reduces my work with sharpening.

Given the amount of usage and the serious pollution, we do have
one silver bullet here. It is obviously that important and urgent
matter, that the politicians easily can legislate and ban the use
of fossil oil for this type of applications.

Such a ban would not have financial impact nor a technical, but
would help to clean up the environment. It would also give a small
but still an injection to the producers of veg oil.

I have not much to do about this in Sweden, since they already are
using veg oil. But the US and Canadian (and other wood producing
countries) members of this list could try to apply some political
pressures here. It is a chance to success, because it is a win - win
situation for the politicians also. It is the kind of issue they like, not
to large but with a lot of good publicity. Many small steps will lead to a
bigger change.

Hakan

At 12:50 PM 8/30/2002 -0700, you wrote:

>Canola/rapeseed it the better lubricant of the two. Various companies also
>do Canola-based with additive packages to improve performance, winter and
>summer grades, etc. They might make cleaning easier, too - or perhaps use
>some biodiesel for cleanup, since it is also such a good lubricant.
>
>Bar and Chain life and time between sharpenings are often claimed to be
>greatly improved.
>
>One interesting number I came across in researching this is for Canada, via
>the "EcoLogo" web site (our environmental labeling organization here - the
>'three doves" logo).
>
>They say that about 6 kilotonnes of bar and chain oil are used each year in
>Canada in logging - and that does not include all the small users
>(homeowners, cottagers, farmers).
>
>That all goes  onto the ground, into the water. Granted, it is dispersed,
>but almost all of that is used motor oil that someone has taken the trouble
>to take to a recycling depot (using fuel) - then it is trucked to a refinery
>(using more fuel), refined and colored (using more energy), repackaged (more
>plastic and energy), and then sent out to market (more fuel)
>
>
>....after all that, we allow a million or so worth of "oil changes" to be
>done onto the forest floor all across the country, and the company doing the
>selling sells the same product twice over and gets to call it an
>eco-friendly solution because they are using used motor oil!
>
>  New or used Canola or other vegoils would be a better strategy, with
>additive package, if needed. A blend of mostly new oil would probably best
>technically and give the greatest increase in bar and chain life (both on
>chainsaws and tree harvesters)
>
>
>Edward Beggs
>http://www.biofuels.ca
>
>
>
>
>on 8/30/02 10:04 AM, Hakan Falk at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> >
> > Ed is right, but many times I have bought sunflower oil in the food
> > store and used it. I also use the manual feed button on the chain saw
> > frequently to give it some extra cooling and lubrication. Do clean the
> > blade carefully directly after use, which you always should do anyway.
> > Veg oil do create some minor cleaning problems, if you let it cool down.
> >
> > Hakan
> >
> >
> > At 08:06 AM 8/30/2002 -0700, you wrote:
> >> Canola or rapeseed (virtually the same in fuel and lubricant applications)
> >> is what is normally used.
> >>
> >> Edward Beggs
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> on 8/30/02 6:22 AM, Kim & Garth Travis at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> >>
> >>> Is there any particular kind of vegetable oil that is recommended?
> >>> Thanks for the info, I will be changing over, immediately.
> >>> Bright Blessings,
> >>> Kim
> >>>
> >>> Hakan Falk wrote:
> >>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Apart from running 2-stroke engines on mix of ethanol/veg oil, the chain
> >>>> saw is a different thing. For some decades now, I use veg oil for
> >>>> lubricating
> >>>> the saw blade. In Sweden, it is now a standard to do that and almost all
> >>>> do it. When you buy a chain saw they recommend it now. From a pollution
> >>>> point this is very important, since the blade lubrication goes 
> directly to
> >>>> the surrounding earth.
> >>>>
> >>>> Hakan
> >>>>
> >>>> At 05:57 PM 8/28/2002 +1000, you wrote:
> >>>>>  great... thanks for the info Keith..Im going to give that one a
> >>>> try.. Im
> >>>>> trying to getaway from non-renewable fuel... so the biodesel and
> >>>>> ethonol  mix i think i will work on. Thanks again!
> >>>>> --
> >>>>>
> >>>>> On Tue, 27 Aug 2002 15:47:49   Keith Addison wrote:
> >>>>>>> --- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "bendo4000" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >>>>>>>> Im exploring the idea of ethonol conversions on my farm equipment. I
> >>>>>>>> have found many sites converting standard 4 stroke engines to
> >>>>>>> ethanol.
> >>>>>>>> I was interested if anyone has had any luck converting 2 stroke
> >>>>>>>> lawnmowers , edgers, chainsaws, generators even 2 stroke trail
> >>>>>>> bikes.
> >>>>>>>> I cant see any problems with the mix .... according to a biodiesel
> >>>>>>> mix
> >>>>>>>> you can combime ethanol and veg oil.... has anyone out there had any
> >>>>>>>> luck???
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> [EMAIL PROTECTED]   any info would be much apreciated! even if its
> >>>>>>>> just a "it worked for me"     thanks for ur trouble!
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Can't help re. your ethanol query, however I have heard reports of
> >>>>>>> people using biodiesel as two-stroke oil with gasoline (in chainsaws
> >>>>>>> etc.)
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Mike
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> We have had some reports of using biodiesel as 2-stroke oil. It's a
> >>>>>> super lubricator and seems to work fine. Older engines might need a
> >>>>>> higher mix ratio - one earlier message advised:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> "Old two-stroke engines like yours usually have bronze wrist pin
> >>>> bearings
> >>>>>> and thus require a richer oil mixture to adequately lube that bushing.
> >>>>>> Incidentally in a two stroke you will often find the wrist pin
> >>>> bearing fails
> >>>>>> first from poor lubrication (It is just much harder to get the oil
> >>>> into it!)
> >>>>>>  I would recommend at least to stick with the 20-1 or even 15-1
> >>>> seeing as
> >>>>>> biodiesel is a "thinner" oil than normal two-stroke oil. I have no
> >>>> idea what
> >>>>>> effect bio-diesel would have on the octane of gasoline but it
> >>>> probably isn't
> >>>>>> so important on old engines because they usually have a very low c/r
> >>>>> anyway."
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Actually it turns out biodiesel isn't thinner than standard 2-stroke
> >>>>>> oil, or not by much.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> New engines need what, 50:1 or less? Try it and see, start with a
> >>>>>> higher ratio than recommended for standard oil. At least one list
> >>>>>> member uses biodiesel with his chain saw, no problems when last we
> >>>>>> heard.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> You can mix vegetable oil with anhydrous ethanol, and 95% ethanol
> >>>>>> will do as well, probably even 160-proof with such small amounts of
> >>>>>> oil, and ethanol and biodiesel mix even better, stable mix, so you
> >>>>>> should have no problems, no need for blending additives.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Castor oil was the traditional 2-stroke lube, and it's still used in
> >>>>>> racing I think. Expensive though. If I had a 2-stroke now I'd want to
> >>>>>> be using ethanol and biodiesel. When I did have a 2-stroke I often
> >>>>>> used fuel ethanol in it, no problem. No biodiesel then (that was 40
> >>>>>> years ago).
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Best
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Keith
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Biofuel at Journey to Forever:
> >>>>>> http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html
> >>>>>>
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