do they need to be inset as in the drawing or will a flat piece of aluminum work?
I have some .25 thick aluminum. I could mill a pocket which would add to the design and then mill the holes for the components. That would take more machine time is all. Generally, the way I mill plates such as these is I surface a piece of scrap and then glue (using superglue) the stock down onto the scrap. I can then machine around the edges without worrying about clamping. With pockets though, the torque even when ramping down might break the part loose. How many plates are needed? > On Apr 28, 2017, at 1:13 PM, Bob kb8tq <kb...@n1k.org> wrote: > > Hi > > The dimensions, including the holes that need to be CNC’d into the plates are > attached an earlier message in this thread. The main link is: > > http://www.synergy-gps.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=54&Itemid=73 > > <http://www.synergy-gps.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=54&Itemid=73> > > The dimensions are at the bottom of: > > http://www.synergy-gps.com/images/stories/pdf/tapr%20gps%20kit.pdf > <http://www.synergy-gps.com/images/stories/pdf/tapr%20gps%20kit.pdf> > > The one that is the bigger issue is the “front” that has the D hole and a > connector > for a normal 9 pin serial connector. > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.
