Tony,
Is that an 'LOL'?
If that is so, is it a 'conflict of interest' to be hawking/selling it as a 
stockholder?
How does it work?  If I bought stock in Whiting, Flex-O, Mc Flyfoam, etc., can 
I still hawk their products? 

DonO 
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Anthony Spezio 
  To: vfb-mail@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 9:54 AM
  Subject: Re: [VFB] book & comments, DVDs, Zap-a-gap, WD-40


        Don,
        I accuse Dave of having stock in Zap A Gap. Got a couple of sample 
bottles from him at the Smallmouth show in Oklahoma last May. I have been told 
he will be at the Sowbug in March.
        Tony

        --- On Mon, 1/18/10, Don Ordes <f...@tribcsp.com> wrote:


          From: Don Ordes <f...@tribcsp.com>
          Subject: Re: [VFB] book & comments, DVDs, Zap-a-gap, WD-40
          To: vfb-mail@googlegroups.com
          Date: Monday, January 18, 2010, 10:43 AM


          Joyce, that info helps out a lot.

          1.  I saw the photos of what he was doing and you seem right on.  
Just extended furled fiber-tails with lots of different flies applied.

          Once anyone gets the rope dub down pat, the furling is another open 
door to some cool applications, not just another tail on the fly.  I wish I 
could tell you all of the applications, but I'd be telling y'all what's on DVD 
#2.  ;o)

          What I can say is that anything that will rope-dub will also furl 
(within useable limits), with thread core, mono core,  wire core, or bite 
tippet core.  Also, all of your dubbing materials, synthetics, furs, fibers, 
peacock, etc., become materials for furls.

          One hint (which I've attached photos on)- chopped up dubbing, like 
that green lamb's wool, will rope and furl and make great fuzzy, soft, flexible 
caterpillars, as thick as you want them and very durable (and tapered if you 
want).  If you rope-dub on light wire, you can shape the 'pillar into a curl or 
bend that's not on the hook itself, and it will still be very flexible to the 
fish for feel, and still dense and 'fleshy'.

          2.  Looks like DVD#2 will turn out almost like DVD#1- so many 
techniques, not enough space/time to do patterns and recipes.
          I'm saw that some DVD's for sale that were in much longer format that 
the one I did.  I'm checking into it to make sure the quality is the same.

          Do you guys think a 2, 3, 4 hour DVD#2 (for the same price) would be 
agood idea, sine it can be indexed like #1?  Then I could do all of the 
techhniques and show lots of rope-dub finishing techniques to graduate into the 
fly bodies.  Securing the rope-bodies to the hook was a problem for one guy at 
the show, so I showed him about 4 ways to secure the fly to a slick hook (shiny 
plated saltwater hooks are very slick).  Which brings up item #3:

          3.  Dave Whitlock has a new DVD out about using Zap-a-gap on flies.  
He gave me one, but I haven't had the chance to look at it yet.  He got with 
the Z-A-G company and made up little applicator bottles specially designed for 
fly-tiers.  I have about 4 of them so far, and I'm thinking uf using it for 
anchoring flies that tend to slip backwards on the new very slick hooks.  Don't 
have much problems with the old bronzed Mustads- rougher finish.

          4.  I've used Super-glue gel for my big deceiver flies to attach the 
eyes, but they seemed to have a smell long after the glue dried.  So I seal all 
the heads and eyes with vinyl cement, which makes them more durable and seals 
in the SG smell.  The vinyl cement has no detectable smell after two weeks.  

          My lure-fishing experience tell me to give them a shot of WD-40 
before fishing, to hide the human scents, but not to 'flavor' the fly (illegal 
in many areas).  It works with Mackinaw trolling flies, so it should work with 
trout through marlin flies also.  Oil-related smells permeate the water- so 
fish are used to smelling them.  Problem is, some fly materials react to the 
oil, and then degrade.  Don't know which ones they are until it's too late.  
Add that to materials reacting to the sun and salt, and many materials just 
don't hold up in the real world- especially holographic streamer fibers.

          DonO





            ----- Original Message ----- 
            From: Joyce Westphal 
            To: vfb-mail@googlegroups.com 
            Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 4:25 AM
            Subject: Re: [VFB] book


            I have it and it is OK, not spectacular and I would not buy it 
again. You can get the same information on the internet free of charge. Of 
course, he only talks about furled flies and after you learn the technique, all 
the flies look the same, just different colors of furled thread tails. Don't 
know if this helps. Joyce


            On Sun, Jan 17, 2010 at 8:26 PM, The Smiths <aflyt...@comcast.net> 
wrote:

              Does anyone have any knowledge of a Paper back byKen Hanley 
titled Tying Furled Flies?
              Gary S.

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