On Jul 19, 2013, at 12:09 PM, Hardware Mack wrote:

> i recommend 60/40 tin/lead solder as well.
> you can still get it online… most walk-in places will not carry it any more…
> 
> But yes 60/40 rosen core solder is the best with this vintage stuff… i have a 
> huge roll that i'v had for 6 years.
> once its gone i will be sad.

When I have trouble removing parts from newer boards I'll often use a solder 
sucker to remove as much of the lead-free solder, then re-solder it with 60/40 
solder and THEN use the solder sucker or wick to remove the solder or otherwise 
remove the part.  Replacing the lead-free with leaded solder lowers the melting 
point (even if the solder is now a mix) and makes it  a lot easier to get parts 
out.  It also reduces the likely hood of damaging the board in the process.

> 
> I am pretty sure mcdermd only uses lead free solder.
> You just have to be quick, and your iron has to be up all the way.
> more heat is not good on the pads :)



One of the hardest things to get through to newbies is that a higher heat, 
hotter iron (within limits) is better because it heats up the work area fast 
rather than  a lower heat iron which takes time to heat up the work area and 
therefore spreads the heat farther.



I'd been soldering for about 40 years, usually just using an un-controlled iron 
(25 or 50W), when I bought a controlled soldering station.  Now I won't go 
back.  I use a wiring pencil a lot, this requires a pretty high (800+ degrees) 
temperature to burn off the enamel insulation on the wire.  The wire is 
basically a magnetic wire but the enamel coating burns off at a lower 
temperature than normal mag wire, lower but still pretty high by electronic 
soldering standards.  I previously used an uncontrolled 50 W iron but it tended 
to be too hot and destroyed tips pretty fast.  Using a controlled iron makes it 
work so much better, it holds the right temperature but has the power available 
when needed.

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