i think he is alot more capable then what he might be leading us to believe...
:-)



On Jul 20, 2013, at 3:56 PM, Alexandre Souza wrote:

> 
>   And he asks if he can reuse a KESTER solder roll...Oh my :o)
> 
>   (kester is the best brand of solder known...And of course, not avaiable in 
> Brazil)
> 
>   But it would be best if you could find a 0,5mm 63/37 roll. It flows better 
> and the small diameter makes you make less mistakes.
> 
> ---
> Enviado do meu Motorola PT550
> Meu site: http://www.tabalabs.com.br
> 
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gaetano" <gaetano...@gmail.com>
> To: <vintage-macs@googlegroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, July 20, 2013 5:31 AM
> Subject: Re: Are my 2 Powerbook 100 only for the trashcan?
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> after reading your invaluable suggestions (thank you!) I checked what I 
> already have at home and see if there is anything that can be reused.
> I guess that the roll of solder is ok, if I correctly understand the label it 
> is 60/40 and then I have a solder sucker, the one on the right.
> Are they ok? Is it better to have the wick?
> Back to the Charles' shopping list, cutters and pliers are ok, I have them.
> Coming to capacitors, I am looking for them on some italian online stores, 
> what do you think about these ones? (Mostly Panasonic and Nichicon, I 
> understand from the thread that Panasonic are good ones)
> 
> 1uF 50V
> 47uF 16V
> 10uF 16V
> 
> Thanks for all the fun I am having on this thread!
> Gaetano
> 
> 
> 
> On Jul 19, 2013, at 22:06, Clark Martin <cm...@sonic.net> wrote:
> 
>> 
>> On Jul 19, 2013, at 12:09 PM, Hardware Mack wrote:
>> 
>>> i recommend 60/40 tin/lead solder as well.
>>> you can still get it online… most walk-in places will not carry it any more…
>>> 
>>> But yes 60/40 rosen core solder is the best with this vintage stuff… i have 
>>> a huge roll that i'v had for 6 years.
>>> once its gone i will be sad.
>> 
> 
>> When I have trouble removing parts from newer boards I'll often use a solder 
>> sucker to remove as much of the lead-free solder, then re-solder it with 
>> 60/40 solder and THEN use the solder sucker or wick to remove the solder or 
>> otherwise remove the part.  Replacing the lead-free with leaded solder 
>> lowers the melting point (even if the solder is now a mix) and makes it  a 
>> lot easier to get parts out.  It also reduces the likely hood of damaging 
>> the board in the process.
>> 
>>> 
>>> I am pretty sure mcdermd only uses lead free solder.
>>> You just have to be quick, and your iron has to be up all the way.
>>> more heat is not good on the pads :)
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> One of the hardest things to get through to newbies is that a higher heat, 
>> hotter iron (within limits) is better because it heats up the work area fast 
>> rather than  a lower heat iron which takes time to heat up the work area and 
>> therefore spreads the heat farther.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> I'd been soldering for about 40 years, usually just using an un-controlled 
>> iron (25 or 50W), when I bought a controlled soldering station.  Now I won't 
>> go back.  I use a wiring pencil a lot, this requires a pretty high (800+ 
>> degrees) temperature to burn off the enamel insulation on the wire. The wire 
>> is basically a magnetic wire but the enamel coating burns off at a lower 
>> temperature than normal mag wire, lower but still pretty high by electronic 
>> soldering standards.  I previously used an uncontrolled 50 W iron but it 
>> tended to be too hot and destroyed tips pretty fast.  Using a controlled 
>> iron makes it work so much better, it holds the right temperature but has 
>> the power available when needed.
>> 
>> -- 
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