> Reply-to:      <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> (Vintage Macs)
> To:            <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> (Vintage Macs)
> From:          [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date:          Mon, 18 Mar 2002 22:13:03 EST
> Subject:       Re: Apple 15" Multiscan Repair

> My Reply follows quote. On 18/03/2002 18:31 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] said:  
> 
> >Hardest part is getting tin pan off the CRT board if top isn't 
> >snappable off.  Go slow, suck out excess solder that holds down tin 
snip!
> ----------
> That is the part that has had me "put off" from tackling this project. I 
> guess it is "nothing ventured, nothing gained."

Exactly!!   Just go for it and go slow, use small flat screwdriver 
to flex apart both parts while melting one tab at a time and suck 
solder off at a time the edges till you can get them freed.  Suck the 
excess solder off with solder puller or solder vacuum tool, whatever 
it is called.  For that centre part that's last job to do, if has to, 
add more solder and keep it melted, then you will able to get pan 
off, not required to vacuum that solder.  That centre part has heat 
interia, be patient while solder slowly turns from soild, sticky 
then finally melts, sproing! if you get it pried apart while doing 
it.

Reinstalling pan, that centre is first thing to get resoldered.

Important thing get all edges freed first, both parts pan and circuit 
board has enough flex to let you get enough gap to get solder out 
between them.  When you get one tab seperated, wait a moment for 
solder to solidify before moving on to next tab.  Don't worry about 
screwdriver touching other parts inside, just go gentle.

If you have to bend the tin a bit, no problem, keep going and when 
done resoldering that crt board, straighten the tin pan and solder it 
securce.

Remember to look at tabs if they goes though circuit board or at 
edges are straight, if not, straighten them!  If it's bent or twisted 
and covered in solder (horrors!) drastic action is required, draw off 
excess solder, take a dull old stainless steel knife you don't care 
about and while keeping solder melted jam knife between that tab and 
circuit board and pry up, get remaining solder off, then finish 
straightening tabs to get pan off.  Some damage will happen if solder 
isn't hot enough while prying up those tabs.  Don't worry about that, 
parts of solder pads for tabs still remains on that circuit for 
decent connection with that tin pan.

When reinstalling that pan, don't bother cliching tabs down, solder 
is plenty enough to keep it secure, all ones that were repaired do 
fine this way.   At production process workers twisted or bent those 
tabs over to make their job easier and faster (more production for 
less expense) during soldering job that we curse at theirs idea while 
untwisting them. :-)

Does not make sense to leave pan off, that "useless" bit of tin does 
helps image quality, better grounding and cuts down on RF emissions 
that may affect your other radio, tv etc reception.

> 
> Ken
> 
> Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without.

That battered solder trigger gun w/ charred tip that your grandfather 
stashed in old dusty box somewhere, that thing is too HOT it will fry 
the traces off the circuit board and heavy, but could be great for 
that massive thermal sink like the centre part of tin if you wish to. 
 Get pencil type solder around 35W to 40W.  Weller is decent brand 
and radio shack should have it and supplies you need is usually there 
also.   Not expensive to buy these items either.

When tips get eroded and becomes diffcult to melt solder despite the 
swiping on that damp paper towel, file just the tip itself to a 
medium fine point or chisel shape w/ fine toothed metal file hot or 
cold, sandpaper okay only when iron is cooled.  Tin filed 
tip with solder when iron is hot once again.  Damp folded paper 
towel to wipe your "dirty" iron tip from time to time.  Flux 
chars and solder on it go grungy too, wiping with that will clean 
that tip up and keep your soldering job looking nice and much easier 
job going.

Where I work, I don't like what techs are flicking sharply their iron 
tips toward hard floor that solder crap get splattered on the floor. 
>:-(  Through, those solder splatters looks exactly like shiny 
metallic kind of splattered smooth tomato thick sauce.  Cooled and 
stuck on metallic splats pops off easily like sheets of alumium foil 
and no damage to the floor except for bit of flux, that cleans up no 
problem.  Except for that splattered carpet, removing them is hard 
part, with care, pull those blobs off much as you can and cut 
strands stuck to blobs right at the solder blobs w/ smallest scissor 
or fingernail scissor. ;-P

Cheers,

Wizard

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