I'm sure some sort of poly resin would work well, but who knows about
production cost and whatnot.

-----Original Message-----
From: viphone@googlegroups.com [mailto:viphone@googlegroups.com] On Behalf
Of Annie Skov Nielsen
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2013 10:41 AM
To: viphone@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Standscan not holding together and other thoughts on the
product, was: Standscan pro - I admit defeat

Hi Sieghard.

It would be nice, if the box could be built in another material, but what
kind of material would be as lightwaight and easy to carry around. It could
be done in some sort of plastic, but when the producing will be more
difficult.

Best regards Annie.
On Apr 4, 2013, at 6:50 PM, Sieghard Weitzel <siegh...@live.ca> wrote:

> Hi Annie and Krister,
> 
> I received my Standscan yesterday and while I had the benefit of 
> reading the various posts regarding setting it up, I found the 
> detailed descriptions very difficult to understand without the 
> Standscan in front of you. Anyhow, it took me maybe 15 minutes to 
> figure it out, after all, the places where one has to fold it are easily
felt.
> 
> However, my Standscan will not hold together properly without a bit of 
> tape especially on the front top corners where the opening is and the 
> back corner where the cable comes out. I know mine is part of a new 
> production batch so maybe that has something to do with it, but just 
> to make sure that I wasn't doing this wrong, I asked my manager at my 
> store to put it together. He is sighted, he has gone to college for 
> plumbing and electrician, he is a hobby woodworker same as myself and 
> all around a handy kind of guy. He looked at the instructions and put 
> it together. It turns out that I had done it correctly, but the place 
> where the cable is supposed to come out is slightly mis-aligned and 
> the magnets on the top in the front where the opening is and on the 
> side where the cable comes out (after he made the notch a bit larger) will
not hold even though they line up.
> 
> Now that I have the Standscan I agree that the way the product is made 
> should be improved and possibly a different material might be required 
> to make it fit better, last longer and hold together more securely. If 
> I were to carry this thing around with me in my pack all the time even 
> in some sort of protective envelope, I could see how repeated setting 
> it up and taking it down would probably wear it out and, as I said, in 
> my case I would definitely have to replace some of the magnets. I may 
> actually try this anyways and use some very small rare earth magnets. 
> Those things are maybe slightly thicker, but they could probably be 
> glued to the outside of the cartbord as they are so strong that they 
> would easily work through the cartbord. Anyhow, now that I have a 
> Standscan, I am planning to measure it and I will probably built a box 
> out of 1/8 or 1/4 inch oak plywood with these exact dimensions. This 
> would not be designed as a portable, take-down box, but I could make 
> one for at home and one for at work and maybe after some magnet 
> replacements I can then just use the Standscan for the occasional trip to
a trade show or so where I might need it.
> 
> 
> Regards,
> Sieghard
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: viphone@googlegroups.com [mailto:viphone@googlegroups.com] On 
> Behalf Of Krister Ekstrom
> Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2013 7:14 AM
> To: viphone@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: Standscan pro - I admit defeat
> 
> Hi,
> Yeah, i find i have trouble keeping the Standscan together so to 
> speak, because the magnets aren't strong enough and tend to loosen 
> their grip, but now at least i have it up and running after much sorrow
and epic failures.
> Too bad you can't put it up on a restaurant table so you can study the 
> menu, but hey you can't get everything now can you?:-) /Krister
> 
> 4 apr 2013 kl. 14:36 skrev Annie Skov Nielsen
<annieskovniel...@gmail.com>:
> 
>> Hi.
>> 
>> Normally I am a good builder, I love taking things apart and put them
> together again. This one took me an afternoon and an evening, but I 
> can do it now. I needed to find the system. 1 important thing is to be 
> sure the flaps are folded corectly and folded enough. I think I would 
> recommend to have a sighted person to fold it the first time, mine was 
> in fact a little difficult.
>> 
>> I have got an idea, if it was possible to get magnetsthat are a 
>> little
> different, so that the equal magnets should fit together. I also think 
> I will recommend that if they on standscan know a standscan has been 
> ordered by a blind, that they fold it the first time, because when it 
> is much easier when you will have to fold it again.
>> 
>> Best regards Annie.
>> On Apr 2, 2013, at 7:40 PM, Sandratomkins 
>> <sandratomk...@googlemail.com>
> wrote:
>> 
>>> Annie,
>>> 
>>>    Sorry you are having problems, stick with it! I am forwarding to 
>>> the
> list both my description and that excellent one of David. They are 
> both using a different style, so hopefully, between the two, you might 
> have more success! Take it one step at a time and remember, the flap 
> with the whole in it is the lig of your box. Once this lid is in 
> position, the little cable should be sticking out from the far left
corner.
>>> 
>>>    Fingers crossed for you,
>>>    Sandy. 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>> Begin forwarded message:
>>> 
>>>> From: Sandratomkins <sandratomk...@googlemail.com>
>>>> Date: 28 March 2013 16:09:14 GMT
>>>> To: "viphone@googlegroups.com" <viphone@googlegroups.com>
>>>> Subject: Re: Standscan pro - I admit defeat
>>>> 
>>>> Krister,
>>>> 
>>>>   I don't think I can improve on David's excellent description, but 
>>>> if
> I add one of my own, between us all, we might get you assembled! 
> Indeed, if you could find someone to help assemble, just for the first 
> time, it would be very useful to see how the finished thing fits 
> together. However, if this is difficult for you to arrange, then you 
> must keep coming back to the list and, eventually, we will sort it! So
don't give up yet.
>>>> 
>>>>   My problem is that I can't remember exactly how the SSP looked 
>>>> when
> it first arrived, so I hope I don't confuse you further!!
>>>> 
>>>> 1. With the folded SSP flat on the table in front of you, there 
>>>> should
> be a short piece of cable protruding from the furthest, right-hand corner.
>>>> 
>>>> 2. If you feel for a narrow flap, this runs along the length of the 
>>>> SSP,
> but is only about 3 inches (say 7 cm) across, lift this flap away from 
> you so that it and the larger flap it is part of, opens out toward the 
> back of the SSP and is laying flat on the table toward the back of the
SSP.
>>>> 3. Now lift the next flap you find and open it out to your left and 
>>>> lay
> it flat on the table, it will stick out to the left of the SSP.
>>>> 4. Now take the last flap, which will open up and over to your right.
> This is a double flap, so it will open out twice and is twice the 
> lengther of the flap that you have alrready opened out to your left.
>>>> 5. You should now have a shape in front of you with the central
> rectangular base. With a flap opened to the left of it. You should 
> have another flap opened out to the right and this one is twice the 
> length of the one on the left, because half of this longer flap is 
> going to be the top of your SSP. and in the centre of the second part 
> of this long flap is the hole for the camera to see through. Lastly, 
> there should be a flap at the back of the central base which is opened 
> out away from you and which has a secondary, smaller flap as part of it.
>>>> 
>>>> 5. Lift the left hand flap so that is is vertical and hold it there 
>>>> with
> your left hand.
>>>> 6. Now lift the flap on the right, taking hold of it toward its 
>>>> furthest
> end and lift it so that the first part is roughly vertical and the 
> second flap folds toward the flap you are holding with your left hand. 
> Thus forming a top to your box.
>>>> 7. Using both hands, fold  the little flap at the end of this top 
>>>> piece
> over the top edge of the left hand flap. There are magnets in this 
> part of the top and they will be attracted to the magnets which are 
> also toward the top of the left hand flap. I find I might have to 
> slide the two together a little until I can feel that they have found each
other, these magnets.
> Also, the cable should now be poking out at the top left of your wobbly
box!
>>>> 8. you should now have a wobbly construction with no back and no 
>>>> front
> and this is when we will start to strengthen it!
>>>> Running vertically up the front of the two sides which are now 
>>>> standing
> up, you should find two triangles, they are long and attached to the 
> sides of the box sides that are standing up. Bend these gently so that 
> they form the beginning of a sort of frame to the front of your box 
> and then bend the flap that you will find is now protruding from the 
> top/lid of the box. This flap, when bent down over the two triangle 
> flaps will stay in place once the magnets find each other.
>>>> So now we have just the back to deal with.
>>>> 8. Lift the back flap up,keeping the little flap open and flat. If 
>>>> you
> do this lifting with your left hand, then with your right, gently fold 
> in the two long triangles, similar to those at the front of the box, 
> so that they are making a sort of frame at the back of the box, just 
> like at the front, the top flat will also bend down to meet them, but 
> this time, the magnets will not find each other until you press the 
> back (held with your left hand) flat against them. This is because the 
> magnets holding the back together are in that top flap of the back and 
> the magnets of the two long triangles. The top flap that your bent 
> down, which is attached to the lid of your box doesn't have any 
> magnets in it, but is merely sandwitched between the back and the long
triangles.
>>>> 
>>>>   In short, Ha! The part of the box that holds it firm is the frame
> that you make with these triangles. It sounds like you have got the 
> general shape going OK, but have not done the triangles properly.
>>>> 
>>>>   Please get back to the list if it still won't stand firm for you, 
>>>> as
> it would be such a shame to give up when you are so close!
>>>> 
>>>>   Sandy. 
>>>> 
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>> 
>>>> On 28 Mar 2013, at 14:47, Sieghard Weitzel <siegh...@live.ca> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>>> Hi Krister,
>>>>> 
>>>>> David posted instructions just yesterday, I have pasted them below. 
>>>>> Maybe they will help, but David also points out that it is 
>>>>> apparently relatively straight forward for a sighted person, so 
>>>>> maybe ask a friend or family member to figure it out and then show 
>>>>> you. I haven't received mine yet although it should come soon, so 
>>>>> until I do I can't help myself other than to forward you David's
> explanation:
>>>>> 
>>>>> When set up properly, the StandScan Pro creates a nice box which 
>>>>> is decently stable. It took me about half an hour to figure out 
>>>>> how to unfold, open, and lock it in position. I can now do it much 
>>>>> more
> quickly.
>>>>> 
>>>>> 1) Lay the closed package flat with the flap face up.
>>>>> 2) Open the flap.
>>>>> 3) open the central piece by unfolding it straight down from the flap.
>>>>> 4) Flip out the two side flaps. One side unfolds twice.
>>>>> 5) At this point, the bottom is the rectangle with three 
>>>>> attachments. The back is the attachment that does not have an 
>>>>> opposite side. If the back is away from you, the top is the 
>>>>> rectangle all the way to the right. If you have the Pro version, 
>>>>> the top has the LED light bar and the power chord on it. On all 
>>>>> pieces except the bottom, there are magnets which are in areas 
>>>>> with fold lines. The two magnets on the bottom are for locking the 
>>>>> StandScan
> closed after folding up.
>>>>> 6) When opening, the fold in the back segment is straightened.
>>>>> 7) Find the fold creases on the left side panel. There is one on 
>>>>> each side when the panel is brought to vertical. Eventually, you 
>>>>> will fold both flaps to 90 degrees. The creases contain the round
> magnets on the left panel.
>>>>> Note: the same is true for the right side panel.
>>>>> 8) Bring the back panel and the left panel to vertical. The back 
>>>>> crease in the left panel folded to 90 degrees means the magnets in 
>>>>> the fold section match up with the magnets in the back left side.
>>>>> When connected together, You have a firm connection for two sides 
>>>>> and
> the bottom.
>>>>> 9) Fold the back crease on the right side flap to 90 degrees. This 
>>>>> will allow the right side to slide in front of the back side so 
>>>>> the magnets on the right side connect with the back; just like the 
>>>>> left side connects with the back.
>>>>> 10) Bring the top up and over the top of the box. make sure the 
>>>>> back flap on the right side comes in front of the back side. When 
>>>>> the magnets connect, the box is now rather sturdy.
>>>>> 11) Before connecting the top, make sure the chord for the LED 
>>>>> lights is in the small groove for it on the left back side top corner.
>>>>> 12) Fold the flap on the top that extends beyond the back down so 
>>>>> its magnets connect with the magnets on the back.
>>>>> 13) Fold the left and right front side flaps 90 degrees into the 
>>>>> box. In other words, these flaps fold the same direction as the 
>>>>> back
> flaps.
>>>>> 14) Fold the top flaps on the front and left sides down so they 
>>>>> connect with their corresponding side magnets.
>>>>> 
>>>>> When done properly, you have a container that provides a stable 
>>>>> shelf to place your phone on for taking images for OCR. The round 
>>>>> hole for the camera is in the middle of the box. It is your job to 
>>>>> place the phone so the camera is properly aligned. I make sure the 
>>>>> side of my iPhone is the same distance back from the front edge of 
>>>>> the box along its entire length. The LED lights are all the way 
>>>>> across the back of the box, when open, so light is spread evenly 
>>>>> across the page being scanned. Note: if you are still unable to 
>>>>> make the box stand, have a sighted person set it up and then show you.
> Visually, it is straight-forward to set up.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Finally, a note on the material. The website clearly states the 
>>>>> StandScan is laminated cardboard. This means, cardboard with a 
>>>>> thin film of plastic bonded to it. Only the outside of the box has 
>>>>> the plastic film on it. This did not make sense to me until I 
>>>>> remembered that plastic is nice and shiny reflective. Such 
>>>>> reflectivity inside the box can cause glare, which might wash out 
>>>>> the print image. Cardboard, on the other hand, causes defuse 
>>>>> light, so
> the text image will be much clearer.
>>>>> 
>>>>> David Chittenden, MSc, MRCAA
>>>>> Email: dchitten...@gmail.com
>>>>> Mobile: +64 21 2288 288
>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>> 
>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: viphone@googlegroups.com [mailto:viphone@googlegroups.com] 
>>>>> On Behalf Of Krister Ekstrom
>>>>> Sent: Thursday, March 28, 2013 7:31 AM
>>>>> To: viphone@googlegroups.com
>>>>> Subject: Standscan pro - I admit defeat
>>>>> 
>>>>> Hi all.
>>>>> I knew i was stupid, and that if on a web site, it says that 
>>>>> setting up something is as easy as pie, then i will be fighting 
>>>>> with the damn thing for weeks on end without succeeding. This is 
>>>>> the case with the Standscan pro. If i set it up as it looks to be 
>>>>> set up and then put my Iphone 4s on it, the box will budge and 
>>>>> start leaning towards me with the result that the iphone falls off 
>>>>> before i even can make an attempt at scanning with it. There is 
>>>>> obviously something my stupid pea sized brain can not fathom, and 
>>>>> it's probably really easy but i'm too dumb to understand it, so i 
>>>>> guess i'll just admit defeat and use a desk top scanner or 
>>>>> something. But before i deem the Standscan pro worthless, i will 
>>>>> once more beg for help on this list. I need really simple 
>>>>> step-by-step total idiots guide to putting the standscan together,
> because even after Annes good explanation of how to do it, i still can 
> not get it to work, it just isn't stable enough.
>>>>> /Krister
>>>>> 
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