Hi all. Ok I agree that cardboard is not the best material, to built a standscan, and there should be done some research to find a better material. I disagree that the product is not the 30 dollars worth. Here in Denmark everything costs, especially items that can make things easier for me as a blind person.
I think I will order an extra standscan pro, so that if mine should broke I have a new one. It really helps me especially to scan barcodes, that is a totally new world that you can scan barcodes so easy. Best regards Annie. On Apr 5, 2013, at 8:56 PM, Anthony Vece <ajv...@gmail.com> wrote: > Hi Sieghard; > > After reading this thread very carefully, I agree with you. > > I'm just glad I didn't order this item and, get sucked in. > > Anthony > > > -----Original Message----- > From: viphone@googlegroups.com [mailto:viphone@googlegroups.com] On Behalf > Of Sieghard Weitzel > Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2013 12:50 PM > To: viphone@googlegroups.com > Subject: Standscan not holding together and other thoughts on the product, > was: Standscan pro - I admit defeat > > Hi Annie and Krister, > > I received my Standscan yesterday and while I had the benefit of reading the > various posts regarding setting it up, I found the detailed descriptions > very difficult to understand without the Standscan in front of you. Anyhow, > it took me maybe 15 minutes to figure it out, after all, the places where > one has to fold it are easily felt. > > However, my Standscan will not hold together properly without a bit of tape > especially on the front top corners where the opening is and the back corner > where the cable comes out. I know mine is part of a new production batch so > maybe that has something to do with it, but just to make sure that I wasn't > doing this wrong, I asked my manager at my store to put it together. He is > sighted, he has gone to college for plumbing and electrician, he is a hobby > woodworker same as myself and all around a handy kind of guy. He looked at > the instructions and put it together. It turns out that I had done it > correctly, but the place where the cable is supposed to come out is slightly > mis-aligned and the magnets on the top in the front where the opening is and > on the side where the cable comes out (after he made the notch a bit larger) > will not hold even though they line up. > > Now that I have the Standscan I agree that the way the product is made > should be improved and possibly a different material might be required to > make it fit better, last longer and hold together more securely. If I were > to carry this thing around with me in my pack all the time even in some sort > of protective envelope, I could see how repeated setting it up and taking it > down would probably wear it out and, as I said, in my case I would > definitely have to replace some of the magnets. I may actually try this > anyways and use some very small rare earth magnets. Those things are maybe > slightly thicker, but they could probably be glued to the outside of the > cartbord as they are so strong that they would easily work through the > cartbord. Anyhow, now that I have a Standscan, I am planning to measure it > and I will probably built a box out of 1/8 or 1/4 inch oak plywood with > these exact dimensions. This would not be designed as a portable, take-down > box, but I could make one for at home and one for at work and maybe after > some magnet replacements I can then just use the Standscan for the > occasional trip to a trade show or so where I might need it. > > > Regards, > Sieghard > > -----Original Message----- > From: viphone@googlegroups.com [mailto:viphone@googlegroups.com] On Behalf > Of Krister Ekstrom > Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2013 7:14 AM > To: viphone@googlegroups.com > Subject: Re: Standscan pro - I admit defeat > > Hi, > Yeah, i find i have trouble keeping the Standscan together so to speak, > because the magnets aren't strong enough and tend to loosen their grip, but > now at least i have it up and running after much sorrow and epic failures. > Too bad you can't put it up on a restaurant table so you can study the menu, > but hey you can't get everything now can you?:-) /Krister > > 4 apr 2013 kl. 14:36 skrev Annie Skov Nielsen <annieskovniel...@gmail.com>: > >> Hi. >> >> Normally I am a good builder, I love taking things apart and put them > together again. This one took me an afternoon and an evening, but I can do > it now. I needed to find the system. 1 important thing is to be sure the > flaps are folded corectly and folded enough. I think I would recommend to > have a sighted person to fold it the first time, mine was in fact a little > difficult. >> >> I have got an idea, if it was possible to get magnetsthat are a little > different, so that the equal magnets should fit together. I also think I > will recommend that if they on standscan know a standscan has been ordered > by a blind, that they fold it the first time, because when it is much easier > when you will have to fold it again. >> >> Best regards Annie. >> On Apr 2, 2013, at 7:40 PM, Sandratomkins <sandratomk...@googlemail.com> > wrote: >> >>> Annie, >>> >>> Sorry you are having problems, stick with it! I am forwarding to the > list both my description and that excellent one of David. They are both > using a different style, so hopefully, between the two, you might have more > success! Take it one step at a time and remember, the flap with the whole in > it is the lig of your box. Once this lid is in position, the little cable > should be sticking out from the far left corner. >>> >>> Fingers crossed for you, >>> Sandy. >>> >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> Begin forwarded message: >>> >>>> From: Sandratomkins <sandratomk...@googlemail.com> >>>> Date: 28 March 2013 16:09:14 GMT >>>> To: "viphone@googlegroups.com" <viphone@googlegroups.com> >>>> Subject: Re: Standscan pro - I admit defeat >>>> >>>> Krister, >>>> >>>> I don't think I can improve on David's excellent description, but if > I add one of my own, between us all, we might get you assembled! Indeed, if > you could find someone to help assemble, just for the first time, it would > be very useful to see how the finished thing fits together. However, if this > is difficult for you to arrange, then you must keep coming back to the list > and, eventually, we will sort it! So don't give up yet. >>>> >>>> My problem is that I can't remember exactly how the SSP looked when > it first arrived, so I hope I don't confuse you further!! >>>> >>>> 1. With the folded SSP flat on the table in front of you, there should > be a short piece of cable protruding from the furthest, right-hand corner. >>>> >>>> 2. If you feel for a narrow flap, this runs along the length of the SSP, > but is only about 3 inches (say 7 cm) across, lift this flap away from you > so that it and the larger flap it is part of, opens out toward the back of > the SSP and is laying flat on the table toward the back of the SSP. >>>> 3. Now lift the next flap you find and open it out to your left and lay > it flat on the table, it will stick out to the left of the SSP. >>>> 4. Now take the last flap, which will open up and over to your right. > This is a double flap, so it will open out twice and is twice the lengther > of the flap that you have alrready opened out to your left. >>>> 5. You should now have a shape in front of you with the central > rectangular base. With a flap opened to the left of it. You should have > another flap opened out to the right and this one is twice the length of the > one on the left, because half of this longer flap is going to be the top of > your SSP. and in the centre of the second part of this long flap is the hole > for the camera to see through. Lastly, there should be a flap at the back of > the central base which is opened out away from you and which has a > secondary, smaller flap as part of it. >>>> >>>> 5. Lift the left hand flap so that is is vertical and hold it there with > your left hand. >>>> 6. Now lift the flap on the right, taking hold of it toward its furthest > end and lift it so that the first part is roughly vertical and the second > flap folds toward the flap you are holding with your left hand. Thus forming > a top to your box. >>>> 7. Using both hands, fold the little flap at the end of this top piece > over the top edge of the left hand flap. There are magnets in this part of > the top and they will be attracted to the magnets which are also toward the > top of the left hand flap. I find I might have to slide the two together a > little until I can feel that they have found each other, these magnets. > Also, the cable should now be poking out at the top left of your wobbly box! >>>> 8. you should now have a wobbly construction with no back and no front > and this is when we will start to strengthen it! >>>> Running vertically up the front of the two sides which are now standing > up, you should find two triangles, they are long and attached to the sides > of the box sides that are standing up. Bend these gently so that they form > the beginning of a sort of frame to the front of your box and then bend the > flap that you will find is now protruding from the top/lid of the box. This > flap, when bent down over the two triangle flaps will stay in place once the > magnets find each other. >>>> So now we have just the back to deal with. >>>> 8. Lift the back flap up,keeping the little flap open and flat. If you > do this lifting with your left hand, then with your right, gently fold in > the two long triangles, similar to those at the front of the box, so that > they are making a sort of frame at the back of the box, just like at the > front, the top flat will also bend down to meet them, but this time, the > magnets will not find each other until you press the back (held with your > left hand) flat against them. This is because the magnets holding the back > together are in that top flap of the back and the magnets of the two long > triangles. The top flap that your bent down, which is attached to the lid of > your box doesn't have any magnets in it, but is merely sandwitched between > the back and the long triangles. >>>> >>>> In short, Ha! The part of the box that holds it firm is the frame > that you make with these triangles. It sounds like you have got the general > shape going OK, but have not done the triangles properly. >>>> >>>> Please get back to the list if it still won't stand firm for you, as > it would be such a shame to give up when you are so close! >>>> >>>> Sandy. >>>> >>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>> >>>> On 28 Mar 2013, at 14:47, Sieghard Weitzel <siegh...@live.ca> wrote: >>>> >>>>> Hi Krister, >>>>> >>>>> David posted instructions just yesterday, I have pasted them below. >>>>> Maybe they will help, but David also points out that it is >>>>> apparently relatively straight forward for a sighted person, so >>>>> maybe ask a friend or family member to figure it out and then show >>>>> you. I haven't received mine yet although it should come soon, so >>>>> until I do I can't help myself other than to forward you David's > explanation: >>>>> >>>>> When set up properly, the StandScan Pro creates a nice box which is >>>>> decently stable. It took me about half an hour to figure out how to >>>>> unfold, open, and lock it in position. I can now do it much more > quickly. >>>>> >>>>> 1) Lay the closed package flat with the flap face up. >>>>> 2) Open the flap. >>>>> 3) open the central piece by unfolding it straight down from the flap. >>>>> 4) Flip out the two side flaps. One side unfolds twice. >>>>> 5) At this point, the bottom is the rectangle with three >>>>> attachments. The back is the attachment that does not have an >>>>> opposite side. If the back is away from you, the top is the >>>>> rectangle all the way to the right. If you have the Pro version, >>>>> the top has the LED light bar and the power chord on it. On all >>>>> pieces except the bottom, there are magnets which are in areas with >>>>> fold lines. The two magnets on the bottom are for locking the StandScan > closed after folding up. >>>>> 6) When opening, the fold in the back segment is straightened. >>>>> 7) Find the fold creases on the left side panel. There is one on >>>>> each side when the panel is brought to vertical. Eventually, you >>>>> will fold both flaps to 90 degrees. The creases contain the round > magnets on the left panel. >>>>> Note: the same is true for the right side panel. >>>>> 8) Bring the back panel and the left panel to vertical. The back >>>>> crease in the left panel folded to 90 degrees means the magnets in >>>>> the fold section match up with the magnets in the back left side. >>>>> When connected together, You have a firm connection for two sides and > the bottom. >>>>> 9) Fold the back crease on the right side flap to 90 degrees. This >>>>> will allow the right side to slide in front of the back side so the >>>>> magnets on the right side connect with the back; just like the left >>>>> side connects with the back. >>>>> 10) Bring the top up and over the top of the box. make sure the >>>>> back flap on the right side comes in front of the back side. When >>>>> the magnets connect, the box is now rather sturdy. >>>>> 11) Before connecting the top, make sure the chord for the LED >>>>> lights is in the small groove for it on the left back side top corner. >>>>> 12) Fold the flap on the top that extends beyond the back down so >>>>> its magnets connect with the magnets on the back. >>>>> 13) Fold the left and right front side flaps 90 degrees into the >>>>> box. In other words, these flaps fold the same direction as the back > flaps. >>>>> 14) Fold the top flaps on the front and left sides down so they >>>>> connect with their corresponding side magnets. >>>>> >>>>> When done properly, you have a container that provides a stable >>>>> shelf to place your phone on for taking images for OCR. The round >>>>> hole for the camera is in the middle of the box. It is your job to >>>>> place the phone so the camera is properly aligned. I make sure the >>>>> side of my iPhone is the same distance back from the front edge of >>>>> the box along its entire length. The LED lights are all the way >>>>> across the back of the box, when open, so light is spread evenly >>>>> across the page being scanned. Note: if you are still unable to >>>>> make the box stand, have a sighted person set it up and then show you. > Visually, it is straight-forward to set up. >>>>> >>>>> Finally, a note on the material. The website clearly states the >>>>> StandScan is laminated cardboard. This means, cardboard with a thin >>>>> film of plastic bonded to it. Only the outside of the box has the >>>>> plastic film on it. This did not make sense to me until I >>>>> remembered that plastic is nice and shiny reflective. Such >>>>> reflectivity inside the box can cause glare, which might wash out >>>>> the print image. Cardboard, on the other hand, causes defuse light, so > the text image will be much clearer. >>>>> >>>>> David Chittenden, MSc, MRCAA >>>>> Email: dchitten...@gmail.com >>>>> Mobile: +64 21 2288 288 >>>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>>> >>>>> -----Original Message----- >>>>> From: viphone@googlegroups.com [mailto:viphone@googlegroups.com] On >>>>> Behalf Of Krister Ekstrom >>>>> Sent: Thursday, March 28, 2013 7:31 AM >>>>> To: viphone@googlegroups.com >>>>> Subject: Standscan pro - I admit defeat >>>>> >>>>> Hi all. >>>>> I knew i was stupid, and that if on a web site, it says that >>>>> setting up something is as easy as pie, then i will be fighting >>>>> with the damn thing for weeks on end without succeeding. This is >>>>> the case with the Standscan pro. If i set it up as it looks to be >>>>> set up and then put my Iphone 4s on it, the box will budge and >>>>> start leaning towards me with the result that the iphone falls off >>>>> before i even can make an attempt at scanning with it. There is >>>>> obviously something my stupid pea sized brain can not fathom, and >>>>> it's probably really easy but i'm too dumb to understand it, so i >>>>> guess i'll just admit defeat and use a desk top scanner or >>>>> something. But before i deem the Standscan pro worthless, i will >>>>> once more beg for help on this list. I need really simple >>>>> step-by-step total idiots guide to putting the standscan together, > because even after Annes good explanation of how to do it, i still can not > get it to work, it just isn't stable enough. >>>>> /Krister >>>>> >>>>> -- >>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the >>>>> "VIPhone" Google Group. >>>>> To search the VIPhone public archive, visit >>>>> http://www.mail-archive.com/viphone@googlegroups.com/. >>>>> To post to this group, send email to viphone@googlegroups.com. >>>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to >>>>> viphone+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. >>>>> For more options, visit this group at >>>>> http://groups.google.com/group/viphone?hl=en. >>>>> --- >>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google >>>>> Groups "VIPhone" group. >>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, >>>>> send an email to viphone+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. >>>>> For more options, visit 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