Michael wrote:
I received a Fluke 732A yesterday which was purchased from an eBay seller.
* * *
(1) Which one is wrong the DMM or 732A?
As others have said, you have no way to tell with what you have. I
note that the seller's 34401A read the 10v output as 10.0004v, pretty
consistent with the 10.00036 your 3457A read. So it seems likely
that the 732A really is significantly farther off than the cal pot
will correct, and the internal jumpers will need to be changed.
(2) What is the cheapest battery replacement cost?
Fluke built the 732A with four, 6v, 4.5AH SLA batteries. For some
years now, when Fluke replaces the batteries, they use two, 12v, 5AH
SLA batteries for a modest increase in capacity. I believe the best
course is to follow Fluke's lead, and use two, 12v, 5AH batteries
when I replace them.
Also, I strongly advise against using the cheapest batteries you can
get. Those will invariably be very low quality batteries, which will
fail prematurely. There is a huge difference in quality from good
SLAs to poor ones. I have found that PowerSonic SLA batteries give
good service in the 732A (about $35 each).
[NOTE: Be very careful shopping for SLA batteries -- the retail SLA
market is absolutely full of fraudulent marketing. For example,
<http://www.batteryclerk.com/> does everything possible to make you
think you are buying genuine brand-name batteries, but all they sell
are "AJC" brand batteries, which are unmitigated crap. In tiny print
they say, "This is an AJC Brand replacement compatible with" and then
in giant red letters, "Panasonic (or other name brand) Sealed Lead
Acid Battery." Many, many vendors play this same game. Be
absolutely positive you're getting the real thing.]
In order for the 732A to do what it is supposed to do (be, without
question, the most accurate voltage standard you own), you will need
to send it to Fluke for calibration (or to one of the very, very few
other labs with sufficient accuracy and precision to calibrate a 0.1
ppm voltage standard). You will pay from $700 to $1500 for
this. Every year. So trying to save $50 on batteries is beyond foolish.
Last, I paid $650 plus $35 shipping. Do you think it is worth
without battery, if voltages are in the range?
It is hard to say what a fair price is. I have three, all of which
came from working calibration labs (so I know they had been back to
Fluke every year from new). Mine have never needed anything other
than batteries. The most expensive of the bunch cost me $325. But,
as noted above, the cost of the hardware is not the real expense --
it's those trips back to Fluke for calibration. (If you're not
willing to send it to Fluke for calibration, you're just wasting
money buying a 732A. You should get one of these instead):
http://www.voltagestandard.com/New_Products.html>
Best regards,
Charles
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