FYI, quick pricing example for the above 2x Eccotemp 45HI-NG ( I can't find the -NG on Amazon easily but just for reference here's the very similar but not compatible -LP version https://www.amazon.com/Eccotemp-45HI-LP-Indoor-Propane-Tankless/dp/B00K2XLJIW/ ) $530 USD each 2x Descaling/service valve kits (not the Eccotemp model but these seem to be compatible) https://www.amazon.com/Hydro-Master-Isolator-Tankless-Pressure/dp/B07KVCFT2K/ $60 USD each 2x 4inch class III stainless steel vertical vent kits, with additional piping as needed - depends greatly on your house but I'm assuming $1000 total 1x device interconnect cable - I thought that these models were able to be ganged, can't find the serial cable to do so but I assume it'd be <$50. 1x descaling kit https://www.amazon.com/Eccotemp-EZ-Flush-System-Descaler-Cleaning/dp/B01MY7AJ9D $150
By far the biggest cost would be the labour to replace the old chimney / galvanized B vent with the new class III stainless steel piping x2. On Sun, Nov 29, 2020 at 10:10 AM Colin Stanners <cstann...@gmail.com> wrote: > Steve, no feces involvement here but I've been looking into water heaters > quite a bit for a project. > > For the hard water, instead or in addition to the water softener you may > want to look into putting one of these into your hot water path. > https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000NKETXQ/ I wouldn't put it in the general > cold water path - while polyphosphates are safe for consumption from what I > can see, and I'd trust 3M to vet them well, I try to not add much to > drinking water, and cold water is usually mostly what is used for drinking. > Maybe check your plumbing if it's possible to add that device to the cold > water path for everywhere except the kitchen sink, where drinking water is > usually taken. The $80 USD price is almost "too good to be true" compared > to a water softener but the reviews suggest that it works well without > downsides. The cartridges are $50 each and supposedly last 6 months. > > If the chimney leaks it could be a simple fix to the rain cap or flashing, > did you inspect it? WISP experience is at least useful for judging if it's > sealed well to the roof or if the structure of the rain cap is good in > strong wind. > > I would recommend doing lots of math before assuming a solar system can > run an electric water heater for a busy family - it takes a ton of > electricity to create heat, which is why tank electric heaters take 2x-3x > as much time to recover from a cold tank as gas heaters. I don't think > you'd want family members to wait 1-2 hours for a hot shower after someone > else used all the water. As a reference, the bigger tankless heaters use a > reasonable amount of gas (~150-200K BTU) but they take an inordinate, > almost frightening, amount of electricity, ~36kW. > > Tankless math starts with available GPM (from temperature rise chart). > IIRC you're in Illinois, where groundwater temp averages 47 deg F (8 deg C > in the developed countries). Assuming that you want 120 deg water output > from the tankless heater, that's 73 deg F temp rise. That's on the higher > end for a tankless heater. If we look at the Eccotemp 45HI-NG natural gas > tankless water heater, their biggest model at ~140K BTU, the chart says > that at that temp rise it can do 2GPM, so one low-flow shower. If you want > to run a high-flow shower and a sink, or 2 showers at the same time, you'd > need to buy 2 units and the serial cable between them that allows them to > run intelligently in parallel (reducing the "not activating at low water > flow" problem by having just one of them, not both, operate in low flow > conditions). > > > > > > On Sun, Nov 29, 2020 at 12:35 AM Steve Jones <thatoneguyst...@gmail.com> > wrote: > >> You guys all do different weird shit. Went to drain my gas heater tonite >> (may have put that maintenance off longer than intended) >> We are quarry country so we have super hard water. Needless to say tanks >> full of baked in sediment and when I cleared the valve I may have cracked >> the liner, about every ten seconds I'm getting a drip on the burner, and my >> pop off is dripping, probably some sediment. >> >> The water heater is the only thing I have that vents hot anymore and my >> chimney leaks in driving rain. Is rather just bash it in and put a >> dumbwaiter in the chase. I have the two fresh kids that I bet would have a >> blast riding that. >> >> Power vent gas looks to almost double the cost. >> >> Tankless is looking almost comparable in price for gas, so I'm curious if >> any of you guys run them without major water softener and filters. >> >> I'm planning on solar in the next 5 or 6 years when I redo my roof so >> electric would be the thing I go with on the water heater after the one I'm >> gonna have to put in now. >> >> I like gas water heaters because I know how to fix them, parts are cheap, >> same with my clothes dryers. But theyve priced themselves into me looking >> at my options. >> >> Tankless I dont know how to calculate gpm needs. But what led to this was >> taking the flow reducer out of my low flow shower head and running out of >> hot water in 20 minutes. I start my day by scalding myself for about a half >> hour cause I'm a filthy bastard and need to be cleansed of my sins. >> We have 2 bathrooms and a girl hitting her teens, so I assume we may be >> getting into a shower and bath coming on at the same time and the wife >> knowing what's good for her and washing dishes. >> She wont let me put a wood stove and still in the bathroom, so wood fired >> shower options are out. >> Are residential boilers a thing? All my walls had pocket doors so I have >> plenty of room for radiant walls, I dont know if boiler heat it even >> efficient though. >> >> >> >> >> -- >> AF mailing list >> AF@af.afmug.com >> http://af.afmug.com/mailman/listinfo/af_af.afmug.com >> >
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