The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 718 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Oil Change Intervals E34 Drivers Door Handle Assy Removal Tools for Motor rebuild <e60> Conti in the M5 <e36> ABS sensor removal <E36> Aux air pump filter
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2005 22:44:23 -0400 From: "Chris Whitney" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com> Subject: Oil Change Intervals Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I work for a large diesel engine builder. Our engines are designed to run for 8000 plus hours per year. In the (very rare) event that an owner does not do periodic lube oil analysis to determine the condition of his lube oil, we specify lube oil changes at 2000 operating hour intervals, independent of whatever load the engine may have been run at. Idling or full load, the hour meter doth turneth. We do have huge sump volumes, however, and most owners obtain lube oil life significantly longer than that, even with the bunker fuel oil (No. 6 oil) which is often used. I had an '89 Mazda 2.2 liter turbo. My first new car. I recently retired it (due to electrical problems) at 300,000 miles without ever opening the engine, except for timing belts, plugs, valve cover gaskets. Original turbo. Zero sludge inside valve cover. Still pulled full boost and ran very well. Dino oil changes at 3K. I ran it on a 110 mile commute. According to my other car's OBC, I average about 43 MPH during that commute. Changing oil at 3K miles is only 70 running hours, give or take. Could I have extended the change interval? Probably. I never did oil analysis; just basically figured that the $14 and 45 minutes or so it cost me to do an oil and filter change was well spent and relatively cheap. Sump volume makes a big difference. But anyway, if you intend to keep your car for a long time, as opposed to some sort of relatively short lease, I always wonder why anyone would even dream of risking their $20, $30, $40, $50K "investment" by not changing their oil at reasonable intervals. Or my $6K investment for my old E28 535i when I bought it about 8 years ago! ( sold last year for $2800 with 180K) This always begs the question of what's "reasonable" but I doubt anyone would argue 3-5K on dino oils, and 5-10K on synthetics. Depending on how conservative you are, take one end or the other, IMHO. I believe that most automotive gas and diesel engines available today have the potential to run for at least 200 - 300K miles without major work, if well maintained. And the better ones probably 500K. Look at the long haul trucks, they go much farther than that without a major rebuild. I know we have lots of our engines which exceed 100,000 hours.... Let's see. 100,000 hours at 43 MPH - that 4,300,000 miles! Not exactly. They don't call our types of engines "stationary" for nothing! Rgds, Chris Whitney ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2005 22:12:50 -0500 From: "Steve & Barb Conner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com> Subject: E34 Drivers Door Handle Assy Removal Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Has anyone removed the door handle assembly from the drivers door of an E34? I followed Bentley: remove inner door trim panel, remove access hole cover, push back locking plate to remove handle trim, remove screw and locking nut and then remove handle assembly from inside of door. I got everything done except the last step! What am I missing? It seemed impossible to get the part of the handle assembly with the keyhole past the door sheetmetal. I would sure appreciate knowing the secret of this procedure. Thanks. Steve Conner Kokomo, IN ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2005 20:37:16 -0700 From: Harvey Chao <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: Tools for Motor rebuild Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Plasti-gauge to measure bearing clearance? really fine "crocus cloth" for polishing bearing journals? probably something to lock the crankshaft while you try and loosen/ torque the flywheel and or crankshaft pulley? probably want to replace the tranny pilot bearing, so a tool for that as well as a pilot bearing guide tool? If you are going to do the cylinder head yourself you may need tools to lock the cam shaft pulley and or remove it, possibly a special tool to remove and reinstall the cam shafts as well as a valve spring compressor, valve grinding stuff, punch and hammer to mark parts PRIOR to disassembly so that they go back in the same place with the same orientation? I would assume metric open, box, socket, deep socket and "allan" wrenches (for metric cap screws?) extension bar, universal joint, . . . Breaker bar? tape, marker, plastic bags to "bag and tag" as you disassemble scale to check weight of any replaced reciprocating parts - rods and pistons ? (compared to old parts or retained old parts not replaced) so that reciprocating mass stays balanced (a replacement rod and piston may or MAY NOT be matched in weight to the existing others, or to other new units!!!*) Ridge reamer may need tool to remove/install rings from pistons tool to remove retaining clips for wrist pins/pistons (could be snap rings, could be "circlips" ?) * story: the MGA/MGB guys helped the guy across the hall with a VW (upright aircooled) problem that came down to a jug, piston, rod, .... They were SHOCKED, Shocked I tell you, to find out that replacement rods were not weight matched. They wound up taking a scale and digging through the dealer's bin of rods to find the closest match, and then taking it to one of the Mech Eng. labs/shops to grind away weight to get it within a gram [ or coupla grams?] when assembled w/piston, rings, wristpin. Mind you, I have never personally attempted this, but watched classmates in college 35+ years ago do something pretty close a couple of times with old MGA and MGBs. Come to think of it, I did help - -I had the smallest hands and fingers and was the only guy who could hold the lifters in the bores while they rotated, positioned, and then reassembled the split VW crank case - hey college students w/ o much money and no "special tool # umpty fratz" learn to improvise when rebuilding an engine in the dorm room! :-) Harvey ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 10:11:36 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: <e60> Conti in the M5 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> some blah blah blah but otherwise interesting tidbits: http://biz.yahoo.com/prnews/050629/dew016.html?.v=35 -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 10:19:42 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: <e36> ABS sensor removal Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Back wheel of the 328, the wheel sensor is pretty well stuck in it's hole. Any hints on getting it out? We're chasing down the ABS fault light and possible fixes. We cleaned up all but the last sensor. thanks, Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 10:20:38 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: bmwuucdigest@uucdigest.com Subject: <E36> Aux air pump filter Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On the E36's is there a way to open the housing of the aux air pump to remove and clean the filter element? -Kevin ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(6 messages) **********
