The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 856 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: More problems E30
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2005 20:30:52 -0800 (PST) From: "Ryan Simmons" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Brian Ruiz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: More problems E30 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> soooo, I did some work on the problem today. I replaced the air flow meter with a known good one that only cost me $20. It did not fix the problem, so now I have a spare. The alternator wiring is good. The teeth on the bracket though were stripped, at least the top two teeth, so the belt was fairly loose. I got a new bracket today as well so that is fixed. No vac. leaks from what I can tell. I used carb cleaner and tested every hose in site, as well as a physical test i.e. pinching and squeezing the hoses. I tested the water temp. sensor and it is barely within spec, but ok. It read at 276 ohms at 176 degrees. 270 is min. and 400 is max, so that is good. But, and here is my question, the water temp. SWITCH is reading 0 ohms at normal operating temp., that is, it is reading that it is open when it should be closed. It should only be open when below 86 degrees. The Bentley says that this switch controls idle and timing, and although these are two important things, I am reluctant to think that this problem is the REAL problem. There generally isn't any hesitation problem when the car is cold, but when it warms up, this is when I experience the problem. And I don't mean normal operating temp. warmed up, I mean the temp. gauge needle is just above the blue on the gauge. This I am guessing is around 100 degrees, which would be above the 87 degrees the book specifies where the switch should be closed, and this is where my problem usually begins to occur. What do you guys think? I won't be able to get the switch until monday, but does this sound like it is the primary problem, or just a problem under a problem. I am mainly posting this because I am anxious to figure this out and the autoparts place is closed on Sundays (the BMW autoparts place). Thanks for reading, Ryan- > Pending this new information, I would really honestly > start at that alternator wiring. I'm sorry I don't > recall which wire it was, but I *THINK* it was the one > from the starter to the alternator. It was red on my > car (well, 16 year old red at the time, so more of a > brownish color, hehe), I assume it wouldn't change > color on a different model car, but it could, I guess. > :) > > You have a very captive audience waiting (im)patiently > to see what the problem is finally. ;) I really feel > you're just about to nail it. > > Brian > 95 M3 > > > --- Ryan Simmons <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > >> You are very right. It is frustrating when I don't >> have the time during >> the week to actually work on it, but my whole daily >> activity is contingent >> on the car, and its ability to function properly. >> I limped the car 30 miles to my fathers garage. >> When I said that it only >> occured under 2000 rpm's and when it was only warm, >> I was wrong. After >> driving it that long it happens all the time at any >> range of rpm. It just >> happens intermitantly. >> It will have to wait till the weekend. >> Thanks to all that have helped so far. >> Ryan- >> >> >> >> > Ryan, >> > >> > right now you're doing a lot of guessing and that >> can get frustrating and >> > unproductive. Get a good quality carb cleaner >> (with attached wand) that is >> > O2 sensor safe and start a systematic search >> around the motor and all the >> > pipes that feed into the intake. Also each gasket >> and interface. You'll >> > either find the problem or eliminate vacuum leaks >> as a probable source of >> > the problems. >> > When you're close you'll hear the motor rev up at >> idle. >> > >> > I recall many moons ago on my M30 that I used the >> carb cleaner to trace >> > down a vacuum leak that turned out to be a >> "hidden" vacuum hose on the >> > bottom of the intake plenum that fed the HVAC >> system. It was a friction >> > fit >> > on the nipple and when the rubber got old the >> cracks around the end of the >> > hose were enough to cause a problem even though >> the body of the hose >> > looked >> > otherwise in good shape. >> > >> > -Kevin >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > ---------------------------------------------------------------- >> > This e-mail communication is confidential and >> is intended only >> > for the individual(s) or entity named above and >> others who have >> > been specifically authorized to receive it. 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Thank you. >> > >> > ---------------------------------------------------------------- >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > Search the >> > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] >> > >> > >> > >> > __________________________________________________________________________ >> > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, >> founder of the BMW CCA. >> > >> > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and >> home of the Ultimate >> > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >> > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com >> > >> >> Search the >> > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] >> >> >> > __________________________________________________________________________ >> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, >> founder of the BMW CCA. >> >> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and >> home of the Ultimate >> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com >> > > > > > > __________________________________ > Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 > http://mail.yahoo.com > ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(1 messages) **********
