On Fri, Sep 3, 2010 at 10:55 AM, Scott Stroz <boyz...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> From my experience, by the time most surfers realize they are out of
> their comfort zone when surfing in hurricanes, Noreasters, etc, its
> too late.

I have surfed in double to triple overhead conditions many times. Even
if you surf a spot all the time, if it is normally 2-5' and suddenly
it is 12'+ with raging currents and strong rips, that's a very
dangerous situation.

That's part of the challenge - pushing yourself to see how far you can
go. I've been pulled over the falls backward on a 20' wave, jumped off
my board in a sitting position and been shot up and over like a
slingshot on a 12' barrel, and been caught on the rocks hard against a
cliff in 15' waves. I've also scored some pretty awesome waves in
those spots.

The folks on that pier seem to think they are safe, and that's the
most dangerous position of all- thinking you are safe when you are
not.

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